Scooby2.5

I will add that one benefit to the spec b over the outback and quite possibly the legacy gt is the size of the wire feeding the fuel pump from the fuel pump relay and also from the control module to the pump.

We verified while doing the fuel pump mod that the spec B does have the same size/gauge wire as the STI. This allows you to drop in a pump and not really have to do anything because there is not a voltage drop.

On the OBXT and possibly the legacy GT the wire is so small you get a voltage drop to the pump and because of this the pump may not put out the amount of flow per pump manufacturers.

On my outback I had switched to a relayed feed to a STI control module and larger wire to the pump. A few threads about this.

On my 2013 STI and also Zero1 spec b we found the wiring to be larger than the standard legacy/OB

The wiring seemed to be the same on the spec b and the STI

If you are running E85 you will want the wiring feeding the pump to the gauge necessary to allow whatever voltage your aftermarket pump requires for full flow.

This will keep injector duty cycles down.

Underdog did the final thread and provided the latest wiring diagram to use that does not drain the battery after many of us had done much work with this....

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fpcm-wiring-upgrade-relay-staying-switched-w-key-off-242295.html

For reference here is a link to the voltage requirements for the AEM pump usually provided with the cobb flex fuel kit, AEM 320/340

https://www.aemelectronics.com/products/fuel-delivery/high-flow-fuel-pumps/320lph-high-flow-in-tank-fuel-pump-offset-inlet

Greg

Not sure how shipping would work for an open container with oil, very likely not worth the hassle. I bought Motul, which is supposedly great and makes considerable improvements in Subaru MT shifting based on reviews.

 

 

Yesterday put fork, clutch cylinder and TOB on the car. Need to fish DCCD wiring through the firewall via main harness plug. Is this the route most people take? On Mike's car he had it go through the new hole in the floor next to shifter boot; I wanted to avoid drilling additional holes.

 

 

 

Also, can the car be driven without DCCD controller connected? Do I understand it correctly that it will be RWD in this case? Or there can be damage done to DCCD or tranny if DCCD controller is not connected?

Man id love to have it if you could ship it. I have about 3 liters here at the house. I could fill my transmission one last time. can you check about shipping it?

I havnet heard back from him for years, but here is another solution......

https://www.p3cars.com/subaru/

I have about 1 liter of Extra-S left but that's not enough. Will likely go with Motul, not sure about Redline.

 

 

I took it to RalliSpec in NJ for rebuiuld. There was another Subaru tuning shop in CT that does 6MT rebuilds but I couldn't get a firm quote from them so decided to go with tried and trusted RalliSpec.

You want to sell me that liter of extra S?

Did you get lucky and find a part out 07+ spec B or buy new ?

Is the pic in this thread, interested to see what you did with the badge.

I bought new, including the rubber boot under the surround.

The badge is from a STI front lip I think. Cant remember where I got it but maybe ebay.

Guys

I verified this week that the only part that is different from the STI 6 speed shifter is the 35031AG020 Stay CP.

 

Here is a picture to prove this point.

 

In this picture I am comparing a brand new from STI SPEC B STS shifter with a modified 04-07?? STI shifter.

 

http://inlinethumb37.webshots.com/50916/2410317020074087040S600x600Q85.jpg

 

The gold colored Stay CP in the pictures that is lengthened (with a smaller diameter piece inserted) is the STI version of the SPEC B 35031AG020 Stay CP.

So if you are using a STI shifter you could order just the STAY CP 35031AG020 and not have to lengthen your STI stay CP.

 

As you can tell the STI SPEC B shifter (silver) is already longer and matches the lengthened stock STI shifters Stay CP.

 

 

 

 

Also Unclemat had noted in a previous thread/post that you need to order the 35041AG020 ROD CP to get the gold colored joint piece in this picture because the 5 speed piece is different. You need this so the shifter is centered in the hole correctly.

 

So I ordered the 35041AG020 ROD CP and checked it against the joint part that was already on my 08 6 speed transmission and they are identical. So if your 6 speed comes with the gold joint piece shown in this pic you should be good to go. If you do not have this piece order 35041AG020 ROD CP and you will get the Rod and the joint piece.

If you have the gold colored joint piece in the below pic there is no need to order the 35041AG020 ROD CP as the rod portion is the same.

 

http://inlinethumb57.webshots.com/51960/2754042120074087040S600x600Q85.jpg

suboperator, search my user name in this thread. I posted quite a bit of information about the shifter etc.

Most just lengthened the shifter rod or bought the spec b rod or used a 08+ rod. I didn't think the cable had to be changed.

Although I purchased the STS assembly for a spec B I believe and then used a Cobb shifter lever eventually.

Its been a while since I did the swap but search my user name and you may find what you need.

Wrong drive shaft, you need a A/T drive shaft out of a 4EAT, not a 5EAT.

 

 

From page #1,post #1

 

 

https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost...&postcount=205

From ZOrrO

And if you want it to be perfect, get an LGT 4EAT for a LGT swap and an Outback 4EAT shaft if going in an outback.

Carrier bearing is different a bit. Either will work but better to get it from the same car

The CEL would have nothing to do with the gauge

Google the codes

Damn!!! How did I miss that? I think my attention started to waver by around page 50.

 

That would have saved me at least an hour.

 

I used an extension on the plug socket in the drivers back and when it came time to remove the tool from the new plug, the extension wouldn't release from the plug socket. Which of course made it impossible to remove the tool.

 

Using a socket on the socket would have made things so much easier. I sure hope I won't have to repeat this job but that's a great tip.

Dont use an extension. See post 832

A spark plug socket has a hex end where the extension or ratchet connects.

Use a socket on the spark plug socket. It works perfect.

When you get the plug loose and start screwing it out you can easily separate the two so its not hitting the frame rail unlike the extension.

Hope that helps for next time

The AEM instructions would work if you want to bypass the fuel pump control module. If you do not i would wire it like the diagram.

Yea you want to come from the fuel pump relay and its all shown in the document.

Yes you want to use larger gauge wire to the pump. there are other threads on this, I was the first to start it as I was the one that discovered the wiring in a legacy was small.

In turkey lords thread and another one there are pics.

I popped the pins out and soldered to the pins new wire.

i would have him follow the diagram that was posted up to make sure you have it wired correctly.

If you mean the relay is being triggered from the factory wiring, what you are calling ECU im not sure where he got the signal.

The factory trigger signal to the fuel pump control module is from the fuel pump relay under the dash on the passenger side near the right foot/kick panel.

It could be that relay is going bad if he wired it from there.

Do you still have the FPCM in the car? I guess you do as you said it was changing from 33 66 100 duty cycle

Question regarding the rear diff mount:

 

Can the '08+ STi aluminum rear diff mount be used in place of the Spec B mount?

 

From pictures, they look like they are very close in dimensions, but perhaps the outer ears are a bit wider in the STi.

 

I believe if my memory serves me correctly the answer is yes. I think shawn or someone used the sti mount

Correct you want the legacy shaft for a legacy and the outback shaft for an outback. If you are an outback that has removed the suspension spacers you need a legacy shaft

Most of us did not know the differences when we first performed the swap but it did not seem to have any problems and I ran mine like this over 100K.

Back when we did it sourcing a used shaft from a 4eat was not as easy as it may be today. Remember many of US like hamerdown were the first people to do this

At any rate we are just trying to say it will work just fine. Even though the alignment may be slightly off, like a lot of non subaru vehicles are, it works fine

I have 2007 JDM STI Forester gearbox.

2004 STI drive shafts (5x100) at rear coupled to Hyundai Elantra CV-joints.

 

Highly recommended. Read my posts and ask if anything unclear.

 

4EAT prop shaft is ok, but must be OB to OB, or LGT to LGT

I have LGT shaft in OB and it's doable but needs spacers and longer bolts. No point to do it.

I used a legacy shaft in OB with no spacers and it worked fine. Never had any vibration issues but you are correct its better on like car to like car

Problem: I need a good mounting solution for my DCCD switches and the LED indicator. I would like to go stealthy and mount them in the cubby. I’m thinking a blank panel in either plastic or CF that will allow me to retain the cubby door so I can close keep them from being seen. Can anyone point me in the right direction for something like this? I asked in the 3D printing thread but haven’t gontten any responses. All Help and suggestions are appreciated.

Here is how I mounted mine, looked factory. Just cut two holes with a dremel and snapped them in

Best mod I ever did to my outback XT.

Loved it. And would never have gone back.

Sold my car for 16K.

Now driving my newer “Legacy”

13 WRX STI Hatchback.