Shadow_419

Going on 42 myself so I understand about the trunk space. I don't normally have anything in the trunk, but I don't want my stereo deciding what I can do with my trunk. I put the new (to me) amp in the factory location. It's not bolted down, but it's not going anywhere. I used the factory mounting for my amp ground. Used a little rotary tool to clean off the metal of paint for a solid ground. I ended up taping into the factory harness at the amp to distribute the power to the factory locations. Subaru uses 16awg wire and that's plenty for the power levels I'm using. I'll make a dedicated run for the new sub when I get one.

I haven't settled on a sub yet. Just going to work on getting the front speakers and doors done first. Maybe in a week or two I'll decide on a sub. Besides the obvious increase in volume, I need to get everything set up correctly crossover points, levels , ect. Probably the assembly. The area I notice is between the switches and the woofer. There is very little inner door skin so it's not as simple as it could be to tame vibrations.

Installed the new woofers in the front doors. Forgot to take more pictures, but I'll take some more soon. Some small vibration from the door cards that I'm going to have to take care. http://i.imgur.com/jZ7BPlt.jpg http://i.imgur.com/9zdrAP0.jpg

^You're cheating. You have lots more options scoopless lol

^ it looks amazing. Definitely a fan of the custom bumper

Tweeters sound amazing btw. Just installed them tonight. Was in a rush to make it to trivia night on time but they're super smooth and detailed.

They're installed already. It's under factory grills and my car is definitely not a show car. They're staying ugly like me. B.U.F.F. for life.

Made myself some tweeter brackets for the dash location. 40 minutes total time and about $1 worth of material. Used the machine shop at work for the drill press to cut the hole but just tin snips for the outline of the bracket. Ugly but it works. http://i.imgur.com/MVdL9Ts.jpg

I haven't heard Morels in a very long time (00-01) so tough for me to compare. These woofers have very nice build quality and can play easily to 2khz. The tweeters are from a company that was founded by former scanspeak engineers. It can be crossed over as low as 1.8khz with a 24db slope. Daytons like lots of speakers are made in Asia (Taiwan iirc) but the build quality is excellent and they carry a longer warranty than most. I haven't added a steering wheel control adapter yet, but from what I've read the metra axcess controller works well to retain the steering wheel controls. I'm also looking to avoid using any type of subwoofer box if I can get away with it. I don't need to shake the car apart, just enough to fill in the low end correctly with decent output. Konis are the next mechanical upgrade. My stock struts are finally ready to retire lol

The head unit handles time alignment and crossover duties for the mid, tweeter, and sub. In one of the available modes you give up front/rear/sub for high/mid/sub. The mid has an actual bandpass crossover. The crossover section has selectable crossover points and slope. Not as advance as a dedicated dsp but enough control that its actually functional Not going component set but raw drivers active. SB acoustics SB26STCN tweeters Dayton Rs180 7in woofer mids Haven't decided on a sub yet but I'm leaning towards the Dayton Ultimax 8" Picked up a used Arc Audio 5 channel amp on eBay 80Wx4 and 240W on the sub channel rms @4ohms Xdi 805

Pioneer Avh-391bhs. I actually picked it up last cyber Monday didn't install it for while. It's a semi entry level double din with less integration than higher models but it gets the job done for what I need. http://i.imgur.com/ANGglUs.jpg

I've been slowly upgrading the sound system in my car. While the factory speakers in the Harman/Kardon system aren't great, they're better than they appear. The head unit and amp are the weaker links in the chain. I upgraded just the head unit a few months back to a nice improvement in sound and call quality. Just upgraded the amplifier and even without running the rear door speakers, the sound is overall much better. Having crossover and time alignment controls for the mids and dash tweeter/cones plus extra power for all the speakers have it sounding like a new system. The door + dash speakers are next. With a new sub round out the upgrade in the near future

It's a new rotor if that's what you're asking about. The calipers was just standard rusty metal prep. Wire brush, sandpaper, ckean, caliper paint, and then high temp clear.

That power supply section definitely looks like it's been damaged. The diodes look borked.

Needed to do my bakes. Was getting uneven wear. Decided to cover up the rust and make the brakes look less ugly and feel better. One of the pins was sticking a little. http://i.imgur.com/rBMYQI7.jpg http://i.imgur.com/Uyqtvtq.jpg http://i.imgur.com/sns7Lmd.jpg

Don't be a dummy like I was replacing the arms recently. I replaced the entire arm with new ball joint from Subaru. If going that route, pop the axles out heat the knuckle and the ball joint comes out easy enough. Don't bang on the arm like I was trying to get it out. If you have no rust in your area maybe, otherwise go with a map torch and heat it up. Breaker bar / impact + penetrant for the bushing bolts.

http://i.imgur.com/BCPvnvp.jpg Was a task taking a picture and not holding up traffic too long. Union St New Bedford near YMCA

The new mount may just be transferring a little more vibration due to it being new and a higher durometer of rubber.

I won't have time this trip but I was tempted. I have a cousin that lives in Houston that I haven't seen in forever. He has a supercharged Camaro and a 68 Mustang.

I've been in Nashville the last couple of days. Doing some tourist type stuff and just relaxing/drinking lol. Very nice looking city. The Country Music HOF was super cool, and the Jack Daniel's distillery tour in Lynchburg was great. Off to Shreveport, LA for the weekend next. Crawfish festival over the weekend, and then wrapping up in Nashville early next week.

Your car is way too nice to be sidelined. Glad it's going to be back in action

Stu that's great news!

You may not get enough drive cycles in to throw the code again right away. Should come back with a few days though. You can replace the sensor or tune out the code. It's just a check to ensure the catalytic converter is operating at the factory determined efficiency for the stock tune.

http://i.imgur.com/3ZJRjks.jpg Anyone care to guess why the bumper cover is off? Yup you guessed right. Low beam bulb went out. I would have changed out both a couple of months back when the driver's side went out, but the weather was terrible. Light drizzle, cold, and snow on the ground back then meant wheel well for the driver's side. Passenger side went out Thursday morning.

First real wash & wax of the year and a much needed oil change. A little longer than my normal interval, but this weather wasn't cooperating. http://i.imgur.com/N99I1qZ.jpg