RustyRuu

wait, I thought this was a cheap build:lol: those coils had to of cost more than what you bought the car for. but i do enjoy lurking though this thread keep up the good work. Cheap rear sways would be from an gt, outback, Baja would all be an upgrade. Baja being the thickest one at 17mm

if you wanna do more off road things look into a LSD, i can't remember if the anniversary edition had one or not, and if you wanna get real serious ZF design just came out with a locker for Subaru. 4th gen fronts from a turbo model will bolt up and give you a bit stiffer feels but the rear tophats don't match up. if you want more off road capability also don't change your sway bars, or find smaller ones, or ditch em all together. smaller bars will allow for your suspension to behave more independently and allow for more independent flex and travel.

you can try and give 12v to the regulator motor and see if it moves, green connector 2 pins. give 12v and an ground to them, there is no wrong way since it will go up or down depending on the which pin you give power or ground(reverse polarity). if it does work just be careful how long you hold the wires for they can get hot. long jumper cables from your battery and some old or spare test wires attatched to them should work. or you can use the pins you found 12v at before with test wire

So much fun can be had from bad ideas though.

I forget is this a MAP or MAF car? I know its drive by wire. like AWDFTW said that is true. but there are some cheap ways to do it and there is the obvious 100% correct way. One cheap way is using your NA subframe and snaking an exhaust up to a turbo in stockish location, if you know how to weld its like 3, 45 degree pipe bends going behind the subframe and you can use a stock or aftermarket down pipe at that point, if not hire an exhaust shop to help you. with using any stock N/A motor you will need to have a wideband to help you tune the car a healthy amount of boost is between 5 and 8 psi depending on if you have a MAP or MAF. lots of in between factors going this way, but that's some basics. the right way is full harness, motor, and subframe swap from a WRX or legacy but you got to be carful of the later years because of CANBUS, but there can be ways around that now but is still a pain in the ass.

by the passenger side strut tower there is a silver cylinder that is connected to the ac lines, i believe it has a purple connector, unplug it, on the male side of the connector put a small piece of wire between the only two holes, a paper clip will work to. this will tell you if you compressor clutch is cycling on when you connect them, also just plug in the gauges and see if you have any pressure in there first, if not its a leak, its usually the top hose going to the compressor , there are actually two seals there

where are you located?

so i just picked up a similar car (wrx swapped TS wagon), not a legacy though but original owner kept the push style tranny and equipment, he had it rebuilt with sti 1st and 2nd gears along with a couple syncros. look up RF designs look them up if you are near Colorado or something similar near you. there is a bit of chatter from it, if you touch the clutch petal with my foot it stops and, I've had a couple powered by N/A's that have snapped the push style clutch forks. so i would see no advantage going either way, whatever way you want is best, as long as it works

swap your injectors ,3 and 4 are the back injectors, so swap 1 and 2 to where 3 and 4 are an vice versa. if the code comes back or your logger sees the codes move then you found your problem.

outback struts have taller spring perches on the strut. you could use the same springs if you wanted the same height and your fenders will hate you but should "self clearance" after a while or go outback spring.

I've never had a problem with whiteline stuff it usually bolts right in. problem is salt getting the old stuff out. removing the whole upper arm would be easiest, find a press or bring it to a place to get the old one pressed out or, go a little old school and burn the bushing out with a torch, cut the ring that was holding it in with something then chisel it out. i would just go for the drop first and see where its at it might actually put you at 0degrees camber which is fine. it already has negative camber from the factory. forgot to mention your outback tires wont fit with legacy struts anymore, and consider using 05 to 09 legacy gt front struts and spring because it had a turbo and they were valved/sprung different for more weight, so it might suit you h6 a little better.

you will instantly need an alignment. bummer is the rears might gain positive camber which is not adjustable without something like this https://whitelineperformance.com/collections/all/products/kca399-bushing-kit rallysportdirect has an option like this too

https://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/attachments/gen-2-2000-2004/81753d1398191948-3-0-h6-timing-chain-guide-discussion-h6_3.0timingchainvs3.6timingchain.jpg ignore all the red areas those are just timing guides that was the best picture i could find. there seem to be a couple of tentioners on the ez30 one on top driver side and bottom passenger side, if the engine came of of timing during the part failure a lot more could be damaged.

yes they will be fine if your running stock tire sizes as well... stock legacy tire sizes, not forester tire sizes on the legacy. I would suggest also not running a summer and "all season" but an "all weather" instead for more grip in all weather conditions. its not necessarily a snow tire tread but still better than all seasons, just look them up. the running joke with all seasons is they suck during all seasons. if you think about offset at 0, being the center of the wheel's barrel, positive offset moves the wheel closer to the car and negative pushes it away, so the closer to 0 you are at, the further away the wheel is, so although 7 millimeters isn't much, the forester wheels will actually widen the wheel track by 14 millimeters total.

Honestly just wanna hear about some stories about people that make bad decisions like me and like buying crap cars. I just bought a WRX swapped 03 impreza ts wagon that i couldn't walk away from for the price, i was looking into cars with blown motors and transmissions for the price i got it for. It has rear drum brakes an open rear diff probably on its way out. but a zf design built trans with STI 1st and 2nd gears. power steering is about to take a poo too. whats your story?

thats crazy, i just looked up the mx5 or miata automatic take rate and it was 24% although i've still never seen one in person.

the oil pan looks like the suspect but could also be the oil pump right above it, might be good to pull it and inspect it and reseal it anyway, I've only done two both had proper clearances but one had a couple of the screws on the back plate backing out.

no that car is gone, I'm looking at buying a car with rod knock and replacing the stock motor, probably not rebuilding it. weather it be an early wrx or legacy gt, I don't care i just want a Subaru again.

thanks max but there might be a little confusion here. I did have a car that had a 2.5 in it, an ej251 to be exact but after I got hit head on by a drunk driver, It is no longer, he had no insurance or a licence so i got nothing to put towards a subaru i actually want to buy. Been looking into buying a completely separate subaru now, and have been for six months but its not uncommon around these parts to see a 200k mile subaru for 4k dollars. after one successful engine rebuild i figured i could do it again if i buy a car that already has a blown engine or transmission but lower miles to keep the initial costs down, and be more reliable since parts would be fairly newer, parts for these cars are super easy to find where i live currently in CO. I mentioned the 2.0l because thats what comes in the early wrx's and can be replaced with a more robust ej22t short-block with 2.0 heads, and this car had static cams so no avcs to deal with or think about. I'm not a fan of wrx's, don't like the look of them, but wouldn't mind racing one. I was really getting into rallycross with my legacy but now daily a VW which is not as fun on a RX course. WRX are super common around me with blown motors since people try to "mod" them without a tune, then don't know how to pull a motor and replace it. I missed my opportunity on a legacy recently with a blown turbo, the person there an hour before me swooped it up. i was just curious about the turbo and other bits to be replaced after rod knock since i've been thinking of buying a car with it.

so I lost my subaru about 6 months ago and i've just wanted another one since, I don't want to buy anything too high mileage on the chassis so i've been looking into 100k to 150k cars with blown motor or tyrannys. I've only built one motor before all the way down to main bearings, rod bearings, and piston rings. but it was n/a and i'm looking into a turbo build. just curious how most people go about replacing bits after rod knock on a turbo car. I wont deal with the heads i'll have a machine shop deal with them, oil pump from motor with knock will be trashed, oil cooler if there is one trash. But what about the turbo what happens to it after rod knock how do you clean it to get all the metal bits out. In perticular i'm looking at the early WRX's with the 2.0l, static cams, if the block has knock I would replace with a 22t closed deck. I guess my main question is what to do about the turbo after knock and what else to replace other than oil pump, oil cooler, and getting the heads completely cleaned up and rebuilt.

you would need to look into the rules of the rally events you plan to attend and see if modifying your car, after reading about which class you may be put into because of it, is something you even want to do. Stock power-train, caged car, stripped out, is a lot of fun!!! You need a great transmission to play full time, even stock, maybe a spare or rebuilt unit wouldn't be a bad thing to have. rebuilt is great because at that time you can add a front LSD.

the driveshafts will be a bit different on those two transmissions. the inner tri-pot assembly's would be different to be exact. just run your vin for recalls on a subaru dealership or SOA site and it should tell you GT or L.

go to tirerack.com and see if the tires are on there, they can shave tires for you to match treads better. 1/4 inch tread circumference isn't bad and is still within the acceptable tolerances. try to match treads in the back to save the lsd. but like the all knowledgeable internet might suggest you should be fine as long as the rear tires are within 1/4 in circumference or 2/32in depth difference, if you need to wear the newer tires on front to wear them closer to same depths.

would those press into the 05 to 09 arms, or would it have to be a cut and weld to make work sort of deal?

gonna give you an even harder choice, look into Group N front LCA bushings. made by subaru in OEM castings and such but have a higher durometer for a bit more support.