RustyRuu

so this method only works for what ever year this is. i saw the solid tri bearing surface and thought it would be ok to soak mine in mineral spirits to get them clean. not a good idea i took the rings off the tri piece and soaked them then discovered there was another bearing underneath.that is nearly impossible to see if you follow this and you will end up with something that breaks down grease in those bearings stuck there and unable to clean that will probably just kill them and need replacing soon

I'm just trying to think this through. how would you be able to get to any of the rod bearings or would you only be priming the journals to the main bearings? would you then want to crank it over by hand 20 times, then use the starter to prime more, then throw the fuel pump fuse in and let it rip. i'm just worried since the engine has been sitting for a while. and i'm affraid what i used for assembly oil has probably all oozed away (lucus oil stabilizer). not sure if there is really a question being asked here but if someone notices a really stupid thing was just said by me please let me know.

i thought they used the hole for cars with reverse lockouts like the 6mt or some sti's have.

Maybe you can start a poll for the color choices just for fun and your kid never has to know even if he wins. What are the colors being disputed at this moment?

could possibly be your rotors. I had a similar problem and you wouldn't feel it (the shaky wheel would stop) when you would brake to stop, but it could when you brake checked or tapped them. thought it was something with the power steering, but time came to replace rotors and i replaced the fronts first. I started to late and had to work that night so i just went with the fronts for then. the problem was still present. so i really thought it was the power steering. the next day i replaced the rears and it was back to driving normal, somehow a rear warped rotor caused the steering to shake at highway speeds.

it would probably come up in a search if you refer to it as an O2 bung or exhaust bung. it just takes the sensor out of the direct flow of the exhaust making it throw no codes.

how did you hollow your cats out? cut into two pieces remove the precious metals from the filter and re weld it?

sort of concered about this part but i'm just gonna go for it. it seems pretty strait forward and will help a lot. funny how it started in -21 but when it comes to a calm 60 degree day in colorado in February it gives up and needs a couple wacks from a hammer.

im broke and like beaters. 90's ls1 like camero, gto. also like the idea of a brat/baja. been thinking of putting a 2jz in the s10 i just broke the timing chain on. so many options and so much time. also like the Porsche 944s. and i want to do a subaru swap on a vangon someday.

any know of a good place to take my case halves to have them looked over

whats the up date twist? and how did you find chunks in your fuel filter? drip it out into a clear bottle? or cut it open?

on your oil pan seal it looks like you have a cork seal, is that all you use or do you combine with RTV as well. and what brand is it?

what is the paint on the crank you are measuring with the plasti gauge?

i have had the same problem there might be a leak in the system so even if you bleed it it wont be a permanent fix. but bleed it first and see if that works then if the symptoms come back there is a leak i would suggest its in your clutch hose thats where mine was.