RustyRuu

Ever consider just not having one, it makes great noises on my opinion. Choo choo noises.

Avoid kia\ hyundai at all cost a quick search at engine pricing if anything bad did happen, those long blocks are 3x more than any replacement subaru has. Kia motors go for 4.5 to 5k all day at wreckers but subaru motors are closer to 1.5 to 2k

Make sure you take the wheel involved and put it in the rear, and keep the rear wheel that was involved in the rear. It will only help a little until you figure out what to do. Like the death wobbles above 50 will just be danger wobbles now

I've spent an arm and leg on the best motul fluids, but valvoline syncromesh MTF works the best for me and the high mile trannys I mess with. Your mileage may vart.

Why not just belt sand/ grind the end of the valve or inside of the bucket?

Stock fan fitment becomes tight, as well as top hose fitment they my rub and rupture. Zip ties are life if that becomes a worry.

Yes it fits. And sometimes a person wants to do, what a person wants to do, to their own car against the popular opinion of the majority. That is alright, since it is their property. I have a wacky, waving, inflatable, arm flaying tube man, in my front yard just because.

YouTube search flatirons tuning how to swap a ej2.5 liter engine into your 2.0 wrx. Opposite of what you are doing but will hit major problems that you need to overcome

If you snap a quick pick of your header we can help you, those look like cali emission style header that was only for a couple years from inferno Fab. A pic will help us help you

Something that is completely unrelated to electronics, but lightweight flywheels reduce engine braking. So a closed throttle will do less driveline shock. A tune up has always done me good too. Plugs, wires, coils, clean iacv, clean maf and or map, change fuel filter, stuff like that

carid.com

I had this problem with one of my subarus it had rear drum brakes. That's where the abs would kick off on certain braking events, in the rear. I pulled the drums, had tons of built up dust, brake cleaned the sensor and where it picks up the signal on the spindle. I'd say one can per brake, get those suckers clean, its worth a shot and cheap maintenance if it doesn't work .

These are great cars, but have typical subaru problems head gaskets leak oil externally. so watch out new stainless exhaust, it's not a huge problem just check during oil changes to make sure it's not gotten severe and check your oil during every refueling so there are no surprises. valve cover gaskets should be looked into as well The engine is non interference so nothing bad can go wrong internally if the timing belt breaks, but if your using it on road trips change it out for peace of mind or bring a new one just in case that almost 30 year old rubber band snaps. Lots of old vacuum lines, just to check over, again that's almost 30 year old rubber.

Rear axle should work check out opposedforces.com for part numbers.

What is wrong with your current engine?

Yes chat with him and have him rescan the car it could end up being something different even. Keep us posted

Any oil in the spark plug hole? If so leaking valve cover could cause it. Did you try switching the coils from on side of the motor to the other and see if the codes follow? What plugs did you use?

Sway bars could help you out with body roll in turns, stock upgrades for a L trim level would be outback rear sways or a, better but harder to find baja rear sway. The biggest stock front sway bar would be from a trifecta.

carid.com

Depends on how far you want to go. Nothing currently in the rear will swap from a wrx/ impreza you could swap subframes, arms and such with a a 2nd or first gen legacy or any impreza. They are comparable to impreza but you would need to keep your top hats and drill new holes for the other ones. Front stuff should interchange pretty easy though.

All EJ engines bolt up to all ej trannys. Even the ez30's bolt to them. So any EJ that was paired to a tranny auto or manual will work.

It's kinda a bitch, look up centering a rack online and it will explai It better than anyone. Basically have to play with it from lock to lock for a minute to get it right, really not that bad but can be.

slide pins like to lock up and act funny on the breaks, pull the calipers and re-lube them with brake lube, remove the rubber boot on the pin if torn or swollen, order another or run it without its up to you. one is probably grabbing/ engaging faster and causing the slide, if i were you i'd be down shifting first until you get this sorted, but you cant always in emergency situations. also corporate repair shops (ie discount tire, big o tire, les schwab) will offer free alignment checks could be worth looking into

that is an interesting encounter, something that may ease your mind on over cranking an engine with no oil pressure while you try and trouble shoot, is this sweet tool. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/diy-oil-system-priming-tank-214760.html wont help with that air bubble i don't think but will get oil to your bearings while you try and figure stuff out, and just great to do on a fresh build anyway.