J.Naw

So, i've got a 2001 LGT that I am swapping a jdm ej205 into, and I've been looking into clutches to hold the power I am planning to make (around 260-280whp to start with) Issue is, stock transmission is somewhat weak (I plan on being nice to the car, but would love to do some launches) and the transmission is a push type clutch assembly. So, I know its possible to swap different transmissions into these cars, and I know I have to match the 4.11 diff gearing to the transmission, Issue is, what pull type tranny will work? I've got my mind in a huge sand dune cause this whole swap thing has me thinking 24/7. Main questions: Do I need to swap mounting brackets and the sorts? Do I need new axles and driveshaft? What I know: -transmission code in car is a TY754VCBDA -engine I am swapping is a v7 jdm ej205 (avcs and DBW) -wanting to use the Exedy stage 1 HD clutch (due to wanting to retain streetability) My options are (that I know of): -Convert transmission from push to pull (requiring new flywheel, clutch assembly [that's fine], fork and slave cylinder. Could be cheaper but risk grenading tranny, and not sure what exact parts I need. (edit, reading the links more thoroughly, general consensus is that the 5spd transmissions aren't that much different in terms of strength, there are the slight changes with the RA style gears and hardened sti gears, but besides that they are the same (excluding -differences between phase 1 and 2) Edit 2: just found out its impossible to swap to pull because of needing a pivot.. So I'm down to two options. -Swap a pull style transmission into the car, allowing for stronger gears and ease of life. -Get a aftermarket clutch (probably act. Their clutch does fill 319lb/ft) that will hold the power for my tranny for a push style, not having to do anything with the transmission itself. My main concerns: -Bolt in would be amazing, don't really want to be swapping sub frames. -strength of the tranny (since im swapping may as well get atleast the RA style gearset tranny (after march 2002) -axles I assume should fit right in correct? -I should be able to mate a 2.5 push clutch to the ej205 with the stock tranny correct? I plan to re-use my stock flywheel, may just resurface to get it flat Here's some links I've been researching: https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?9909-THE-Transmission-Thread-2-0-Now-with-Pictures https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1040104 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?14469-THE-transmission-thread-For-Dummies https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/3rd-gen-legacy-gt-engine-swap-wrx-possible-sti-vs-173055.html https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/tech-reference-572.html?t=572 https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1681362 https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2887614 I'll do some further digging but any help or ideas will be gladly accepted. I don't want to spend a boat load of money for the tranny swap.

So. I've been doing a bunch of reading in forums for how I should go about this swap and it seems like its somewhat straight forward besides wiring. Here are some links I've been reading through: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/ej205-00-lgtli-project-build-thread-190422p11.html?highlight=1055 https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2835688 https://www.rs25.com/forums/f7/212119-help-how-can-i-effectively-tune-my-jdm-ej20-3.html https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1663677 AFAIK, these usdm cars have the 4.11 gearing in them. But through these readings I've gotten more questions then answers. Ill just spill them out here haha: Car currently has an ej251 drive by cable, nothing modified. Should I try and get the ej205 ecu and engine combo and tune it? (opensource most likely) or just get ej205 and use ej251 ecu, or should I get a standalone like megasquirt (if that will work) Swap throttle body from ej251 to the DBW ej205 and use the ej205 ecu or does it require a DBW input. (Or just use a DBC engine) Use avcs or non avcs? (does the performance of a non-avcs engine compare to avcs not being used) If I end up with an auto ej205, will the cam backing plates, cam gears and crank gear from the ej251 work on the ej205? Will using the ej251 crank and cam gears for a USDM style ecu work on the jdm engine or no Opensource tuning on JDM ecu? or will it only work for USDM edit: turns out a megasquirt system (this is a microsquirt documentary) can be used which is nice, cheaper then a oem ecu and more tunable, plus I can probably get a basemap working fine from a stock rom? My biggest concern is since I want to try and do this swap for as cheap as possible, I want something where I can tune it/get it tuned without knocking on 91 Canadian gas. I know the wiring will be a bugger with having to merge harnesses, or straight up swap, but I'm willing to go for the challenge. Let me know if some of y'all can give me some insight, anything will help.

So, I've got a 2001 legacy GT with ABS, and I've been fighting this sort of lack of pedal feel since I bought it from my buddy. So far I've replaced the master cylinder and brake pads/rotors as it was having an internal leak and pressure bled the entire system twice on separate occasions. First occasion was when installing the new MC. Which was done by bench bleeding and then installing, loosely fitting the lines to the cylinder, having assistant press pedal in to purge air between fittings and cylinder, then tightening and having assistant release pedal. Learnt that trick in trades school haha. Anyways, I was continuing to have issues with the pedal feeling soft while the booster is in vacuum so I re-bled the brakes with pressure (thought maybe the trick I did introduced some air, waiting around a minute or so to get air out if there was air trapped between the master and lines, and had no improvement. These are the symptoms I have: While engine is off pedal is nice and hard (as it should be) with no leaking detected. Engine on, pedal is really soft but does not sink to the ground, point where the brakes start to engage is around middle or a little sooner Pumping brakes while engine is on firms pedal up, but letting it set for a second after it returns to a squishy mess I heard that systems equipped with an accumulator could have symptoms similar to this, due to a leak through the check valve, but as far as I can tell/see, there is no accumulator equipped on this ABS system, unless its located somewhere else than on the MC It sounds to me that there is still air in it based on the pulsing of the pedal helping with stiffness, unless this is normal for a vacuum system as between pedal strokes the booster will lose slight vacuum and cause a stiffer feeling. I guess my overall question is, is this normal for a Legacy? I come from driving a Miata and a few other vehicles and haven't had such soft brakes like this. If its not, do these USDM variants come with the BE2 connector so I can try pulsing the ABS pump incase air is trapped in there? I plan on pump-bleeding the system as the MC is pretty new and shouldn't cause any damage, and maybe that way it may force air through places a pressure bleeder can't.