RustyRuu

wait, I thought this was a cheap build:lol: those coils had to of cost more than what you bought the car for. but i do enjoy lurking though this thread keep up the good work. Cheap rear sways would be from an gt, outback, Baja would all be an upgrade. Baja being the thickest one at 17mm

if you wanna do more off road things look into a LSD, i can't remember if the anniversary edition had one or not, and if you wanna get real serious ZF design just came out with a locker for Subaru. 4th gen fronts from a turbo model will bolt up and give you a bit stiffer feels but the rear tophats don't match up. if you want more off road capability also don't change your sway bars, or find smaller ones, or ditch em all together. smaller bars will allow for your suspension to behave more independently and allow for more independent flex and travel.

you can try and give 12v to the regulator motor and see if it moves, green connector 2 pins. give 12v and an ground to them, there is no wrong way since it will go up or down depending on the which pin you give power or ground(reverse polarity). if it does work just be careful how long you hold the wires for they can get hot. long jumper cables from your battery and some old or spare test wires attatched to them should work. or you can use the pins you found 12v at before with test wire

So much fun can be had from bad ideas though.

I forget is this a MAP or MAF car? I know its drive by wire. like AWDFTW said that is true. but there are some cheap ways to do it and there is the obvious 100% correct way. One cheap way is using your NA subframe and snaking an exhaust up to a turbo in stockish location, if you know how to weld its like 3, 45 degree pipe bends going behind the subframe and you can use a stock or aftermarket down pipe at that point, if not hire an exhaust shop to help you. with using any stock N/A motor you will need to have a wideband to help you tune the car a healthy amount of boost is between 5 and 8 psi depending on if you have a MAP or MAF. lots of in between factors going this way, but that's some basics. the right way is full harness, motor, and subframe swap from a WRX or legacy but you got to be carful of the later years because of CANBUS, but there can be ways around that now but is still a pain in the ass.

by the passenger side strut tower there is a silver cylinder that is connected to the ac lines, i believe it has a purple connector, unplug it, on the male side of the connector put a small piece of wire between the only two holes, a paper clip will work to. this will tell you if you compressor clutch is cycling on when you connect them, also just plug in the gauges and see if you have any pressure in there first, if not its a leak, its usually the top hose going to the compressor , there are actually two seals there

where are you located?

so i just picked up a similar car (wrx swapped TS wagon), not a legacy though but original owner kept the push style tranny and equipment, he had it rebuilt with sti 1st and 2nd gears along with a couple syncros. look up RF designs look them up if you are near Colorado or something similar near you. there is a bit of chatter from it, if you touch the clutch petal with my foot it stops and, I've had a couple powered by N/A's that have snapped the push style clutch forks. so i would see no advantage going either way, whatever way you want is best, as long as it works

swap your injectors ,3 and 4 are the back injectors, so swap 1 and 2 to where 3 and 4 are an vice versa. if the code comes back or your logger sees the codes move then you found your problem.

outback struts have taller spring perches on the strut. you could use the same springs if you wanted the same height and your fenders will hate you but should "self clearance" after a while or go outback spring.

I've never had a problem with whiteline stuff it usually bolts right in. problem is salt getting the old stuff out. removing the whole upper arm would be easiest, find a press or bring it to a place to get the old one pressed out or, go a little old school and burn the bushing out with a torch, cut the ring that was holding it in with something then chisel it out. i would just go for the drop first and see where its at it might actually put you at 0degrees camber which is fine. it already has negative camber from the factory. forgot to mention your outback tires wont fit with legacy struts anymore, and consider using 05 to 09 legacy gt front struts and spring because it had a turbo and they were valved/sprung different for more weight, so it might suit you h6 a little better.

you will instantly need an alignment. bummer is the rears might gain positive camber which is not adjustable without something like this https://whitelineperformance.com/collections/all/products/kca399-bushing-kit rallysportdirect has an option like this too

https://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/attachments/gen-2-2000-2004/81753d1398191948-3-0-h6-timing-chain-guide-discussion-h6_3.0timingchainvs3.6timingchain.jpg ignore all the red areas those are just timing guides that was the best picture i could find. there seem to be a couple of tentioners on the ez30 one on top driver side and bottom passenger side, if the engine came of of timing during the part failure a lot more could be damaged.

yes they will be fine if your running stock tire sizes as well... stock legacy tire sizes, not forester tire sizes on the legacy. I would suggest also not running a summer and "all season" but an "all weather" instead for more grip in all weather conditions. its not necessarily a snow tire tread but still better than all seasons, just look them up. the running joke with all seasons is they suck during all seasons. if you think about offset at 0, being the center of the wheel's barrel, positive offset moves the wheel closer to the car and negative pushes it away, so the closer to 0 you are at, the further away the wheel is, so although 7 millimeters isn't much, the forester wheels will actually widen the wheel track by 14 millimeters total.

Honestly just wanna hear about some stories about people that make bad decisions like me and like buying crap cars. I just bought a WRX swapped 03 impreza ts wagon that i couldn't walk away from for the price, i was looking into cars with blown motors and transmissions for the price i got it for. It has rear drum brakes an open rear diff probably on its way out. but a zf design built trans with STI 1st and 2nd gears. power steering is about to take a poo too. whats your story?

thats crazy, i just looked up the mx5 or miata automatic take rate and it was 24% although i've still never seen one in person.

the oil pan looks like the suspect but could also be the oil pump right above it, might be good to pull it and inspect it and reseal it anyway, I've only done two both had proper clearances but one had a couple of the screws on the back plate backing out.

go to tirerack.com and see if the tires are on there, they can shave tires for you to match treads better. 1/4 inch tread circumference isn't bad and is still within the acceptable tolerances. try to match treads in the back to save the lsd. but like the all knowledgeable internet might suggest you should be fine as long as the rear tires are within 1/4 in circumference or 2/32in depth difference, if you need to wear the newer tires on front to wear them closer to same depths.

would those press into the 05 to 09 arms, or would it have to be a cut and weld to make work sort of deal?

gonna give you an even harder choice, look into Group N front LCA bushings. made by subaru in OEM castings and such but have a higher durometer for a bit more support.

so sorry if this is a stupid question to the suspension gurus, but why don't you have to have the weight of the vehicle on the trailing arm bushing when you torque it like you do wirh other bushings?

whats the difference in F1 and this kind of racing?

yes that was my picture saw that gem while I was working, there is a jetta wagon that is the same concept but much more complete actually has a back window and bed cover... but i cant ever get a picture of it parked or at all really. both in colorado

thanks for the info on the miata's, it's cool the NB's are so capable out of the box, NA pop up head lights though, any chance of front end conversions? also do any of you all have overheating issues, i see a lot of coolant rerouting kits out there and suggested, what are your thoughts? from my understanding from what i've read that its because of the coolant enters and exits the front of the block that it makes the rear cylinder a little toasty.

so sorry to butt in here, i'm getting close to paying of my student loans, and will have money to throw at fun stuff. I've been thinking of Bimmers e36's (obd1 era), but have always thought of the miata as a better decision financially (at least at first). I've been trying to learn miata's a bit to get into Motorsports with. something to keep N/A but to thrash, get seat time in, learn basics, then continue to track because stock N/A. what chassis or years should I be considering mostly to learn in?