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Saw those.. Glad you posted about them. I figured I'd stay away from ebay garbage. How's the build quality?

I've been looking for an all aluminum radiator for my 98 Legacy Outback. Does anyone know of a source for one? Or if the 99-01 Impreza 2.5rs alloy radiators would bolt in without much fuss?

Curious if the aluminum front control arms from an 04 Sti will bolt right up to a 97 Legacy Outback wagon. It looks like the end link mount is the same as the 2nd Gen Legacy sedans, but wondering if there are other required parts to mount them to my OBW. Thanks!

In my experience it's always the case of you get what you pay for. But, given the price difference even if the cheaper version fails twice (not likely) it'll still be less than the cost of the more expensive one. Might be worth taking the chance on the cheaper version.

Rock Auto has them for less than half the price from Holstein. I've not used that brand personally.. Otherwise your pricing from SMP is spot on to other brands. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru,1998,legacy,2.5l+h4,1305504,brake+&+wheel+hub,abs+wheel+speed+sensor,1912

Sounds like it could be the MAF. Have you checked to see if the sensor is dirty? Sometimes (rarely) cleaning the sensor will at least improve the surging/idle problem. Also, does this "clicking" sound sound a bit like a rod knock? If so and if it does actually go away after warm up figure that to just be a normal Subaru thing. I had a similar "surge" issue with my 98 Outback. Meaning that the surge was more like a flat spot in acceleration under load. It would often go away after warm up but was definitely prevalent between 2000-3500 rpm. I replaced just about everything (coil, plugs, wires, MAF, PCV, engine grounds, battery and coolant temp sensor) but it still persisted. After a bit more research I found that it could be the ECU that causes this. I bit the bullet and got a replacement - note you'll need to get the vin programmed into the replacement. Replacing the ECU fixed the "surging" for me. The ECU and programming ran me $450.

I'd put my money on the rear main leaking/spatter on the flywheel surface/clutch.

Looks great! Hate to have to ask but with the Tein coilovers did you have to use the OEM top hats in the rear? I understand the OB top hats are different from the regular wagons. Also curious what the max height on those coilovers are. Think you could get back up near the stock ride height with them?

The entire face/vents of the center dash was sticky on my 98 Outback wagon when I got it, as well. Never understood the logic behind hanging a beverage holder above electronics and in within spill zone of the HVAC system....... Rusty but trusty (I hope).

Not sure who told you or what they meant by "sweating".. Perhaps clarification on that? Leaking from the axle? Oil leaking from the weep between the bell housing and back of block (rear main)? Typically shudder under load is due to a poor or glazed mating surface with the flywheel/pressure plate. If it's weeping oil from the rear main, that's likely the culprit. Otherwise, check your engine/trans mounts for excessive wear/slop. GL