tigger73

Thanks for clarifying Gteaser - good to know that the stud length is the same for all Legacies whether they have alloys or steel wheels. Sounds like there may just be a bit of corrosion sticking the wheels to the hub. Nothing that a bit of gentle persuasion won't fix. Though if you only have a jack keeping the car up I wouldn't be hitting the wheel, moving the car unnecessarily. You don't want the wheel coming off and the car falling off the jack - hence the recommendation for jack stands or taking it to a workshop with a hoist. Don't want a wheel change to end in tears.

Haven't we had this one before? Or did you take it to the same place with the same guys? Date on the photo is a bit of a give-away

You should just undo the 5 lug nuts and the wheel should come off. If you're going from steelies to alloy wheels you may need longer studs. I'd check to see if there is a difference, however if you put the new wheels on and only have a small amount of thread showing, then you'll need longer studs. As for getting your wheels off, loosen your lug nuts and put your car up on jack stands. Undo all but one lug nut (leave it on but loose). Then get a mallet and hit the wheel from the inside/back of wheel. If all else fails take it to a tire shop and pay them to change the wheels over.

We've had something similar. I think it was along the lines of washing your car - detailing is slightly different . I just figured if I posted up a challenge that a number of people were going to do anyway we might at least get a couple of shots posted up over the weekend. I could have posted the challenge of "a photo of you changing your light bulbs" and then we would have had a heap of entries

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160701/66063722c6548b7cca88f3d161506699.jpg Time to get all this gear installed. 316mm rotors, Intima SS pads, painted GT calipers and some fresh brake fluid. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Tigger73: 27 Grnlantern1: 21 Laz: 11 TTG: 9 Im2c0ol: 8 Twisted freedom: 4 Mehilovich: 4 Nybz: 5 RobbieGT: 3 SubieboyLGT05: 3 Subybru: 3 Andrew_l_s: 2 Kaopealii: 2 PNWHardcore: 2 Sos123: 2 2_From_NH: 2 Bozyczko: 1 Cyc66: 1 CCC555: 1 MaheshBabuKolla: 1 Citadel: 1 Skye_scoob: 1 Wagonofdoom: 1 GTEASER: 1 SubieN8: 1 Fiatz79: 1 Msmoto: 1 Krispybacon: 1 Next Challenge: Post a photo of your car getting detailed - wash, wax, clay bar, those foam bits on a cordless drill, etc

Well here's my pic of blue lake not looking particularly blue in the middle of winter: http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160629/e35f665ef9a6311526cd664f489e19dd.jpg Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

These were $113 each or $226 for the set of 2. I decided not to go with the OEM 3.6R pads as these were quite expensive compared to aftermarket alternatives which perform as good as or better and are less dusty. So I've got some Intima SS pads coming soon.

Usually these will bolt on. You will have to upgrade the rotors if its anything like Australia spec Liberty. The 2.5 gets a 294mm rotor and the 3.6R gets the 316mm rotors (same as WRX). I'm changing the rotors, pads and calipers to match up with the 3.6R. Again you'll need to do your research for the US spec Legacy in case it is different, however the brakes off older gen4 and gen5 GT and 3.0/3.6 will bolt up identical to gen6 (on the fronts at least without the electronic park brake). The rear rotors are the same on my 2.5i as the 3.6R (both run 300mm rear rotors) so there's no point in changing these. The bigger upgrade is to go for the STI Brembo kit (326mm front, 316mm rear rotors), but then you have to start worrying about brake clearance with the wheels that you're running also.

Picked up some new parts today: http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160627/d0798f5252bc824ae2f103b89d8f5e14.jpg In case you're wondering they're 3.6R brake rotors... and they're very heavy!!!!

Agree 100%. If I was putting new wheels on my car now I'd be looking at running a 19x8.5 rim with a 245/40R19 tire combo. The only problem with this size is that there are no OEM options as the largest OEM rim is 18's at the moment. So you're into aftermarket rims. I'm a big fan of OEM+ look and not making something too customized - though that's just personal preference and also with an eye for resale later down the track.

Yes. 245/45R18 is the much better size to run on 18 x 8.5 rims. It is the closest size to stock tire diameter. You'll never get a perfect match but as long as you're within 1-2% you'll be fine. As tyres wear over their life they do get smaller so there will be a slight change in your speedo reading anyway from brand new to 100% worn out. Most car manufacturers are conservative with their speedo settings to allow for someone to put one size larger tire on and still keep the speedo "correct". As a general rule the speedos will almost always over estimate the speed than under estimate it. With my 245/45R18's when my speedo indicates 64 I'm actually doing 60. I've checked this against a GPS unit and my speedo reads about 5% fast.

Just put the 2 tyre sizes into any online tire calculator. Here's the stock Legacy 18's vs the WRX 18's. As Ryan said the 245/40R18 is quite a bit smaller and so at the same speed it will be running around faster. Hence why the speedo will read fast.

Best to post up in a separate thread - we need another lighting thread in the gen6 forum

Krispy this is what I meant - only the challenge winner gets a point Tigger73: 26 Grnlantern1: 21 Laz: 11 TTG: 9 Im2c0ol: 8 Twisted freedom: 4 Mehilovich: 4 Nybz: 5 RobbieGT: 3 SubieboyLGT05: 3 Subybru: 3 Andrew_l_s: 2 Kaopealii: 2 PNWHardcore: 2 Sos123: 2 2_From_NH: 2 Bozyczko: 1 Cyc66: 1 CCC555: 1 MaheshBabuKolla: 1 Citadel: 1 Skye_scoob: 1 Wagonofdoom: 1 GTEASER: 1 SubieN8: 1 Fiatz79: 1 Msmoto: 1 Krispybacon: 1 Next Challenge: Post your car with the background of a lake or body of water!

Is the WRX wheel 17" or 18"? I know here in Aus the base WRX used to run 17's. In my opinion you want to run minimum 18". Though 19" looks better in terms of running a 40 profile tyre (but you won't find any OEM rims in this size so you're into aftermarket wheels). These are the current style WRX/STI wheels that are probably my favorites: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/wrxsti/wrxsti16-alloy-wheel3.jpg or these: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/wrxsti/wrxsti16-alloy-wheel1.jpg Just use your stock lugnuts if you're using an OEM wheel. Unless of course you want a locknut or to go with anodized colours.

Not yet [emoji6] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes I mainly ran the dynos and GPS timed runs so I could gauge the improvements as I made them. I'm not claiming any "official" figures. The tests I ran were so that I could quantify the improvements, and was something that I could do without a major cash outlay. It's a little more scientific than a bum dyno but if you're wanting to compare my numbers to official manufacturers figures unless you use the same test setup under the same conditions you really aren't comparing apples with apples. That's why I ran stock figures for all the tests that I was looking to do so that I had a baseline for comparison. There are gains to be had. They are reasonable. It does turn a car that was a bit doughy into something a bit livelier. Though I agree if you want a sports sedan you really do need to start with a different base car. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This would involve reprogramming the CVT. I'm not sure it's going to help that much. Some of the problems of having too many gears is the transmission "hunting" between gears to find the sweet spot. If you were going to do it then I wouldn't stop at 8 gears I'd reprogram it for 10 and have some bragging rights

Nice work Krispy! You got 4 votes (and the win). Copy/paste the last scores, add one point for yourself and post up a new challenge

Tigger is not too concerned about the doubters in this thread. He is actually a little bemused at the number of people that are showing such a keen interest in modifications to a Gen6 2.5i. Tigger is hypothesizing that either these people are: a) a closet 2.5i lover b) worried that a 2.5i may some day be quicker than their car c) have nothing better to do with their time than continue the myth that there is no point modifying a 2.5i Tigger doesn't mind that people ask questions or seek clarifications. After all this is a forum and a place for people to learn - you don't ask you don't learn. Though he is a little disappointed that when he takes the time to write a detailed explanation to a question someone has asked, that the response is either not read or completely ignored. Tigger thinks that it would be a shame if this thread was filled up with off-topic posts rather than exploring the possibilities/opportunities for improving the performance of the gen6 2.5i. This was his intention of starting this thread and he would actually like it to keep on topic. Tigger is pleased to see some other forum members starting to tune their gen6 2.5i also and hopes that they will be able to achieve similar results.

Nice work Krispy!!! I'll give you my vote as my shot was a little rushed/blurred (I had the security guy watching me as I took the pic).

I realise that I haven't posted up all the 0-100kph (0-62mph) times in this thread - there's most of the data in my build thread. Anyway here's the table of all the times: I've highlighted the best times as well as the bottom line is the average of all runs on each day. Improvement over stock is 2.0sec. Here's the screenshots of rev2 with headers. No I didn't make these numbers up. This is the raw data. Make of it what you will And here's the best run including graph: http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160226/97c49fc9e546c284e47dfe2e9588e9b5.jpg http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160226/f5d66696bdf6802c29876389357a0b79.jpg You can see that the G-tech probably doesn't quite capture the precise start of the run, however it is pretty consistent so if you're just comparing the relative numbers then it's a valid comparison. If you want better figures then you need to spend more and get a Vbox, though the best Vbox only has a 20Hz GPS engine.

Go with the 245/45R18 as this is closest to the stock size. The WRX runs a smaller diameter tyre and your speedo will read fast if you put a 245/40R18 tyre on the Legacy. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Right lets just put things into a bit of perspective here. A few of us have spent a couple of hundred bucks on our cars to make them go a little better. I'm really not sure what the fuss is about. Did you think we paid too much? Was it not good value? Or do you think we should have spent the $ on lighting upgrades like all the other gen6 owners on here If you had a car that was running 10sec 0-60(mph) and for a few hundred bucks you could get an 8 sec car would you do it? I know I would. Even if I did run my car down a 1/4 mile I'm sure you'd question whether it was wind assisted or if the track had a slight slope on it. I know how my car runs. I have comparison dyno results and 0-60 times to support it so I'm not going to bother. I'm not chasing 1/4 mile times. I'm really looking for better on-road pick-up and general drive-ability which I have achieved. I know my GTech GPS timer is probably only good for 0.1sec accuracy. There is an error on lead-in that it doesn't catch the first metre or so, however all the runs have been done with the same device on the same road and I've found it quite repeatable/consistent. You can do a bit of research on the GTECH unit here: http://www.gtechpro.com/ss_fanatic.html Also the dyno that I run my car on is used by the local Subaru independent workshop to do all of their dyno tuning - mostly WRXs. It is probably a harder to please dyno than most, however I have found the dyno numbers and my 0-60 times lining up pretty well. Any improvements on the dyno are reflected on the road and vice versa. I'm really not sure why you're reading this thread. Are you actually interested in getting an ECU tune on your 3.6R? We'd be interested in getting your feedback and perhaps even some timeslips from before/after if you'd like to share.