tigger73

The only time you may want to reset the ECU is if you're down on power for some unknown reason. This can be due to running a tank of poor quality fuel and the ECU still operating on these settings. The ECU will back off to timing to allow the car to run on the bad fuel, however when you get a tank of good fuel it will still be running on these "learned" settings. I found out about this the hard way and couldn't figure out why my performance was down for a couple of months since running a tank of lower grade fuel. Anyway changing the mufflers should make almost no difference to the operation of the engine so you shouldn't need to do the reset. If you feel your performance is off a bit or if you're going to be running on a higher grade fuel (tune for 93 say) then I'd recommend doing the reset just so you start "fresh" with a known state of settings.

That's if it hasn't happened sooner. I know he's tuned a few "local" cars where he lives and these would be the obvious first choice for any development work.

I may just have to stick in a tank of E85 next time he's down this way....

The axle back section is purely for noise and makes virtually no difference in terms of performance (as you've noticed). There are some benefits in removing the restrictions in the headers and getting better flow from a high flow catalytic converter. It's not a massive benefit - mostly to the low end torque off the line. It is noticeable but only just - and only marginally quicker 0-60. You'll have to wait for the E85 tune and that will give you some decent gains in performance over your current tune. Of course if you have some $ to throw at your car you can get some custom headers made, however it'll probably cost $500-$700 to get a few tenths. If you want to extract every last bit then you'll need to do it otherwise save your $ and spend it on something that has a bigger effect. I'd recommend to spend $ on upgrading the brakes/suspension before getting headers for only a marginal performance improvement.

Stock tire size for 17's is 225/55/17. This will give zero speedo error. A 45 offset on a 17 x 7.5 rim will poke out 10mm more than the stock wheel which is +55. This fits fine and will fill out your arches a bit more than stock but shouldn't have any rubbing issues. Check the first post for all the confirmed fitments of rim/tire sizes.

Stick the rim size into this calculator: http://www.tyresizecalculator.com/tyre-wheel-calculators/tyre-size-for-rim-size-width-calculator It'll tell you what tire widths are recommended and what options you have for tires that will fit these wheels. Anyway short answer is no. The recommended tire width for a 7.5 rim is either 215 or 225 (stock size). You can go as small as 205 and as big as 235. If you try and run a wider tire on a narrower rim you won't get a good contact patch with the road. So definitely not recommended for both wear and grip.

It's the same engine and transmission - just a slightly heavier body due to being a wagon and having a bit of a body kit SI drive is good but I run in S mode 99% of the time because why would you want 30% less power?

What about non-US forum members?

I shouldn't think so but don't quote me on it. I'm pretty sure most of the "learning" happens in the first 5-10 minutes and then it's fine tuning after that.

Yes just drain the system by hitting your brakes. Any residual will be gone and cause your ECU to reboot. Yes about 0.3s for the headers and a high flow cat. It's the old law of diminishing returns in terms of $ spent unfortunately. Just remember it can be a little tricky comparing everyones times. Mine were done with a G-tech which can have some inaccuracy due to 10Hz GPS. There can be up to a 0.1s error with the unit as there can be a slight delay in catching the first 1-2 feet of a run. However having said that all my times were done with the same unit so the errors will apply equally to all runs. You can see the improvement and agree my absolute times may not be 100% correct but relative times show the improvement.

Try and run on the same road, same conditions to make the results comparable. From my own personal experience a small incline will make 0.1-0.2sec slower and a slight downhill will "improve" the result by a similar amount. When I did my runs I used highway entry ramps which were pretty flat but I did notice some variance between one and the next due to a slight grade on the road. It was always the same ramp that was faster or slower and you could kind of tell because these ones weren't entirely flat.

You'd be amazed what happens to some cars on "test drives".

Given stock the 3.6R runs 7.2sec 0-100km/hr (claimed), my guess is that with a tune they will be running mid 6's. From my own experience I found the performance figure published in the brochure a little optimistic for the 2.5i. So if the 3.6R is the same I'd be guessing that in reality it's running mid-7's and I'm guessing that you may get a ~1sec improvement with a tune. We need RobbieGT to put his car back to stock and do some before/after tests

Good to hear tamtrum! When you're ready post up your thoughts/impressions on both the tuning process and driving experience as it may help others if they're sitting on the fence.

The tune provides the major gains. Headers make a little difference in low end torque but 90% of the improvement is from the tune. RobbieGT has his 3.6R tuned and the difference is significant in terms of drive-ability and improved fuel economy. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sent you a PM Opie. Hopefully one of the guys with a Tactrix cable can put together a bit of a DIY for all those that are wanting a tune but not sure how to go about it. Matt/throttlehappy who has tuned all of the gen6 cars to date visits my city every couple of months so he has tuned my car with his own Tactrix cable. You'll need to have access to a laptop and cable to read your ECU and load the tune files back on. I'm not sure of anyone in the Florida area has a cable - we probably ought to start a bit of a register. He can tune your XV too

+1 what he said. Nothing on the air intake side - all stock filters and housing/pipe work. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Better to be safe than sorry. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just make sure if you're using an "old" laptop for tuning your car that you have a good battery or run off a power lead as you don't want your laptop dying. Power failure in the middle of writing a file is never a good thing.

Looking good bobbydd21! I think the color of the rims works really well with the silica black Legacy.

Here's my thoughts on the whole warranty thing: 1) If you wait until your warranty is up and then you break it there is possibly no difference if you break it under warranty - you're still likely going to have to pay to get it fixed. The only difference is you have driven a stock car around for 3 years in the meantime. 2) I'd generally advise people to wait until after the first service. Get everything checked over, make sure there's no oil leaks in the engine/drivetrain. If there are get them fixed. Then when you're happy that everything was put together right from factory go for it. Of course there is always a risk but that is the chance that you take. 3) I change my cars every 3 years so if I waited until my warranty was up I'd never do anything. 4) There are very few issues with the engine/drivetrains on these cars. If there were you would have heard about them on this forum for sure. Your wind noise and sticky fuel filler flap will still be covered under warranty. Given that we're not talking about massive increases in power/torque the likelihood of anything going wrong is small. But that's a calculated risk that only you can make and for each person their level of safety/risk taking is going to be different. 5) I have no regrets getting tuned. I've run for 9 months and ~15,000miles with no issues. Enjoyed every minute of it

He charges in $AUD so it depends what the exchange rate is at the time. Even if you have to buy a Tactrix cable (which you could resell), it still works out ridiculously cheap for the improvement you're getting. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No need to reflash the tune. These are "default" settings in memory that don't get cleared even when you disconnect the battery. The only way to set them back to "factory" is to run it through the reset procedure. Because I'd run it on some lower octane fuel my car had remembered the poor quality fuel and then wasn't letting it make more power even when I was running on the "good" gas.

Robbie when you do get your new tune file, I'd recommend doing a reset on the system. Procedure here: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/reset-cvt-fuzzy-logic-procedure-253390.html?t=253390 I ran into some issues having run a tank of lower octane fuel and the ECU cut back power even after I had refilled with a number of tanks of higher octane rating.