tigger73

Was in contact with TH last night and he was hoping to have the updates out to everyone in the next week or so. And I'm sure once he gets a read of the 2018 file he can look at using this as a base and adding his maps to it. But that will be down the track a bit and may require someone with a Tactrix cable to a take a car for a "test drive", park up in a lot and read the ECU.

The ECU used in BRZ is same as in the Gen6 Legacy/Liberty. Just the software developers haven't updated the software to include Gen6 in the list so that is why you just need to use BRZ. Same ECU so it works fine. Hopefully in the next update of EcuFlash they'll include the Gen6 in the list as a separate option. But the reality is there's so few tuned Gen6 running around that it may take a little while to happen.

So do they fit? Any scrubbing? Or do we have to wait until they're fitted up and you have the car loaded up?

I think my exhaust shop just bent up a piece of solid rod for the hangar. Also I'm pretty sure you should be able to get the rubber exhaust mounts from your local auto parts store. Though dealer should be able to get OEM ones for you too.

I've already ordered a set through my local auto lighting specialist

This kind of magic??? https://www.diodedynamics.com/store/catalog/product/view/id/24287/s/2015-2017-subaru-legacy-c-light-switchback-led-halos/category/632?utm_source=newsletter_dealer&utm_medium=email&utm_content=legacy_outback_halos&mc_cid=26c4ad26df&mc_eid=84255449bc#!prettyPhoto

Get yourself a tune and if you're really keen Raptor do a set of headers -http://raptorsc.com.au/subaru/subaru-libertylegacyoutback-6gen-headers/. These 2 mods will give you the maximum performance gain - unless you bolt on a supercharger kit (raptor do one of these too - http://raptorsc.com.au/subaru/subaru-libertylegacy-5gen-3-6r-supercharger-kit/). The exhaust and intake are for noise really and don't make your car much faster in any measurable way.

I'd really be asking the mechanic what he is referring to. I suspect he's saying not to go oversize with the wheels/tires like this: http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_4GtXm42yteI/TT4lx8jXNqI/AAAAAAAAADc/H9XavZdY8LE/s1600/33116230062_large.jpg The thing is the wheel/tire combo you've chosen is very close to stock diameter so there won't be a noticeable change in terms of stress on the transmission. This can be the case when you run over-size wheels as there can be a lot larger torque created at the wheel due to the larger diameter (effectively a lot bigger lever).

...with a long exposure

These are parker lights. But they are so dim that it's hard to see them unless it's night. time For the in-between light at twilight when you want to have lights on to be seen, they are next to useless.

Generally the performance/sports tire will have a softer/grippier compound that will also wear out faster. That's a generalization as I have got decent mileage from Goodyear Eagle F1A2's which are a performance tire.

That's why I'd paint them, put gloss on and coat them with sealant to make them easy to keep clean. White wheels look great when they're clean. Oh and get yourself some ceramic brake pads would help too as they make almost no dust.

For me plasti-dipping is useful when you want to try out a look but not sure if you want to make it permanent. If you decide that you like it then get them professionally painted. The finish will be 100% better up close with a proper paint job.

No reason other than cost and (possibly) ride comfort. Agree that 20's do look good. If the STI is coming with a 19" option I'd be all over that. Personally I prefer the OEM+ look.

I went 18" as it's the biggest OEM size. 20's look great on lowering springs but I'd be concerned about sacrificing too much ride comfort. Though it depends on how much a compromise you're prepared to make to achieve the looks.

If I was to get wheels again , I'd probably go 19". These will run 40 profile tires which still look good and have that little bit more give compared to 20's with a 35 profile tire. Though the 20's do look good... One other thing to consider is availability/cost of tires. The lower profile you go the more performance oriented the tires and generally higher cost also.

I've been talking to my local diode dynamics distributor and his experience has been that things always take longer than expected. I wouldn't be surprised if these C lights weren't released until second half 2017. Although they'll probably sell 40-50 sets to members on here, there's probably a smaller market for these than say a kit for the new Miata or updated BRZ/86. So I'd expect the R&D effort on the Legacy to get bumped for higher volume sellers. Though I'd like to be proven wrong

Generally a staggered offset is not good for an AWD car. The problem comes when you have mismatched tire sizes/diameters on front/back as you'll end up destroying your centre differential. This is the same issue as when you have to replace one tire when the others are worn. The new tire will be larger diameter and you'll end up wearing out your differential. It is possible to match the tire diameters, however when running different size tires this becomes difficult thing to achieve in reality. Plus then you have to be concerned about varying wear rates over the life... and it becomes a total nightmare. Easiest solution is just to run the same rim/tire size on an AWD car.

We're all waiting!!!! I was hoping we might have them by this Christmas...but maybe we'll get them by next Seriously the stock C-lights are so underwhelming that I'm sure you'll get orders from 50% of the gen6 forum members.

Nice to see some progress being made.

Speedo relates to the tire size only (rolling diameter/circumference should be within 2% of factory tire). As long as you choose the right profile/width tire you'll be fine

Locally I can get 3 power runs for AUD$60 = US$45 but that's on/off in 15 minutes. You would have to do all the development with west_minist/XRT before going ahead plus to be fair to both give enough time for the new tune to adapt once it's loaded in.. I think it's a good thing that there's a couple of tuners/options for people and will hopefully provide some incentive for continual development with some friendly competition.

It's a bit of a toss-up between the 19x8 +40 and 19x8.5 +50. The 19x8 will sit 4mm further out (more flush), however the 19x8.5 is a better fit for the tires. Ideally you'd go for 19x8.5 +45 but I know not every size is available in every offset.

Tuning and tuner "discussion" almost always ends up as a pissing contest as to whose tune is better. Reality the only way to get a proper comparison is to do what BeastCoast is suggesting and doing some back to back testing. I'd like to see dyno runs with AFR to make sure any additional power being generated is not going too lean. Plus you'll also want 0-60 times and some general drive-ability/subjective comparison for things like throttle response, etc. Generally tuners don't like these comparisons unless their tune is best and inevitably it all ends up in tears for someone.

They will fit up fine. The tires are slightly wider than "ideal" for the rims but within "acceptable" range. Ideally you'd put the 245/40R19 tires on a 19 x 8.5" wheel. You may not have room for spacers given that they're pretty close to flush. I'm not a big fan of spacers either. Much better off getting wheels with the correct firment to start with.