tigger73

Currently I'm looking at selling the car complete as-is. I'd consider parting out if I'm getting no interest and need to drop my price to shift it. At the moment it is the cheapest Gen6 Liberty/Legacy being advertised Australia-wide (but also the highest km). The mods may work against it in some buyers eyes - hence the reason to return to stock to appeal to a wider market. I haven't priced up what it's going to cost to get a workshop to change back to the stock exhaust yet but it's going to be a few hundred $ I imagine. I'd be chasing AUD$1,000 (US$750) plus shipping costs for the complete system (headers, mid-pipe and dual exit sports mufflers, tips). I have not confirmed direct bolt-on / bolt-off fitment between JDM spec and US-spec Legacy in terms of locations of mount points for the exhaust. You will also need a hangar welded on the right rear to hold the second muffler/tip. I could imagine that freight of the system could end up similar price to the parts themselves if I'm shipping to the US. You'd then probably be better off getting a system fabricated locally as I have done. That way you will have no problems with fitment either. In reality the best outcome for me would be to have a local buy the system and get both cars in the workshop at same time and swap systems between both cars.

Here's the new car. It's a Scirocco R which runs the same engine as Golf R - 2.0 turbo which outputs 188kW/252hp in stock form.

Yes but shipping cost on the exhaust system, brakes or wheels is going to kill it. These are the bits that I'd want to sell if I did part it. So I am really only looking for local / Aus based guys. Not so many of them around with 2.5's (for the exhaust).

So time has come to end this part of the story and move onto the next chapter of my car life. Car is up for sale to make way for the new set of wheels to be parked in my garage. At the moment I'll be looking to sell the car complete as-is, however may look to part it out if there's enough interest. Tough thing is to find gen6 guys locally who want the parts.

Agree they're a nice rim. Grnlantern1 had them on his car on the first wheel change - check out the first page of this thread for pics. I wouldn't expect these to go for quite that much, though to sell without tires works in your favour as the price isn't inflated by tires that you can't use. The thing the seller has to realise is that these won't fit up on many Subies so he's dealing with someone that wants to put a Subaru rim on another brand car or a small market of STI owners. I'd offer $800 if these were in mint condition, but as always something is only worth as much as someone is prepared to pay for it and what the seller is prepared to let it go for.

I've been looking at trading up recently and one thing that the dealers were interested in was whether I had an OEM windscreen. I can only guess that the non-genuine windscreens cause issues with the eyesight system. However it was one of the things that they specifically asked about and it seemed a bit of an oddball request given how much non-standard stuff is on my car which they weren't really concerned about. So perhaps the OP and other people that have had issues may have a dodgy windscreen (or an aftermarket one fitted). It must be an issue as the guy specifically asked whether the windscreen was original or had been replaced at any point. It seemed to make a big difference in the trade-in price that they offered. I can only guess that they've had issues with non-genuine glass and they didn't want to have the cost of a replacement windscreen on top of the trade price.

There's 2 plastic tubes inside the OEM C-LEDs that are illuminated by 2 LEDs. Sounds like one of the LEDs has stopped working... Time to upgrade to a set of Diode Dynamics C-LEDs

Just stick some tape over the windscreen and you'll be back to "normal". Except that now you'll get a warning every time you switch on your car telling you that eyesight is disabled.

Yes you're currently running 225/50R18 and these WRX 18's are fitted with 245/40R18. First number is width in mm. Second is aspect ratio = height/width as % Third is nominal wheel diameter in inches Why we have a mix of metric and imperial units I don't know. The height of your stock tyres is 112mm compared to the WRX spec of 98mm. If you put these into a tyre calculator it works out to around 4.5% difference in speedo reading: http://www.willtheyfit.com/index.php?width=225&aspect=50&diameter=18&wheelwidth=7.5&offset=55&width2=245&aspect2=40&wheel_size=18&wheel_width=8-5&offset2=55 So whatever WRX rims you get you'll need to change the tyres (or fit your Liberty stock ones). Otherwise you'll end up with a look like the car above and speedo error. That's why if you go with the 17's, you'll have to strip the tyres and fit new rubber. That store selling rims also has a set of Gen6 OEM Liberty rims for $999 so his offer to you isn't great if he's only giving you $250 for your rims.

Yes I think these are the WRX 17's in the picture above. Just keep in mind if you buy a set of these, you'll need to factor in the purchase of a set of 225/55R17 tyres to fit up. You can't swap your 18" tyres onto 17" rims If you try and run the standard WRX tyres then this is the end result (other photos here http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=5298316&postcount=3): The car ends up getting "lowered" due to the smaller diameter wheel and it looks small in the wheel well. These are the 18's you were looking at before running WRX spec 40 profile tyres. The rims from the tyre shop are "retail" pricing so they're a bit more expensive but do look in good condition. These sets do come up reasonably regularly as the WRX/STI guys are often upgrading to aftermarket wheels with more aggressive offsets. You should be able to pick up a decent set for $600-$800 if you're prepared to wait and buy from a private seller.

Yes you can swap your stock tyres over onto these without a problem. Or maybe the shop can do it for you as part of the deal The STI rim is 8.5" wide compared to stock Liberty/Legacy is 7.5" so your stock 225/50R18 tyres will be slightly stretched on the STI rims. A few people have done it and they run OK. The only real downside is that you end up with less rim protection from the tyres and the lip on the rim is a bit more "exposed". When you need to replace the tyres then get some 245/45R18's which are probably the better fit for an 8.5" rim.

Yes these will work. I think if you look through this thread you'll find someone has already fitted this design up - albeit with stock (undersize) WRX spec tyres. These wheels do have quite a bit of gutter rash. To get these looking great you'll have to get them sanded back/rash fixed and repainted. I'd factor this into the price that you're willing to pay. Also the shadow chrome finish is a pain to work with (and match) so likely anyone painting these would do the complete set.

These will fit but are 17" and will look small on the Liberty. Also just remember that if you're looking to fit these up with the existing tyres, the tyre size for WRX is too small for the Liberty. So you'll need to factor in buying new tyres on top of the price for these wheels. Personally I'd be looking for 18" WRX/STI rims. Current WRX will fit but only the older STI wheels are OK (these all use 5 x 114.3 bolt pattern). You can then save a few $ by fitting up your stock tyres if you need to save a few $ if you buy 18's. Alternatively just take the stock wheels off including tyres and park them in your shed/garage ready to fit back on when you sell the car. These won't fit. All older gen1-5 Liberty wheels are 5x100 bolt pattern (5 bolt holes at 100mm diameter) compared to gen6 which are 5 x 114.3 (still 5 bolt holes but at 114.3mm diameter). You can get adapters/change hubs but there's a decent range of 5 x 114.3 wheels available so just have to pick one that is correct fitment. I bought mine from a dealer who had taken them off a car. Otherwise try ebay/gumtree and/or WRX groups: http://home.wrx.org.au/ http://forum.wrx.com.au/ Plasti-dip is OK to test out a look but looks pretty average quickly. I personally wouldn't be painting the stock wheels unless you were 100% certain on the look as it is permanent. Better off getting a (cheap) set of wheels and painting them black if you want that look. I don't think it works unless you also black out all the chrome trims on the car black to match.

Try contacting TH again. He was in hospital for 3 weeks in January so wasn't able to respond to emails/enquiries during this time (and then had a big backlog).

Nice "save" photo BeastCoast (thanks to RobbieGT). Time to repost the scores and post up a new challenge I think. Hopefully something that encourages some people to go out and take photos of their car

Here's another shot of this car - though this one not in motion:

Not my photo but saw this motion shot:

I haven't updated my build thread for a while... mainly because there hasn't been a whole lot of activity to report. My Xmas present to myself was a set of C-LEDs and LED indicators. Installation photos. First pull the front bumper off and remove headlights: Pull headlights apart - be careful/gentle and use regular applications of heat. Note there is a connector for the parkers/factory C-LED that has to be undone before the 2 parts will come apart completely: Prep for painting. Any bits you want to keep silver need to be masked: End result: LED indicators with switchbacks:

Definitely go with a high temperature caliper/engine paint. I know of one person who used "regular" paint and the paint vaporized when heated by the lights and a thin film/mist settled on the inside of the lens. He had to pull the lights apart, strip the paint, clean the inside of the lenses, repaint everything and put back together again. Moral of the story: don't skimp on the paint!

I changed wheels/tyres at 22,000km and the stock Dunlops still had a decent amount of life left. I'd be suggesting you'd get 40,000-50,000km from a set. I then ran a set of Goodyear F1 Asymmetric 2's (40,000km) and am now on a set of Bridgestone RE-003's. Both these were 245/45R18 and offered a heap more grip than the stock Dunlops in both wet and dry. I'll be interested to see how the RE-003's wear as these worked out cheaper on the 4 for 3 deal Bridgestone were offering in December.

I was in contact with him over the weekend. He had been flat out travelling/tuning from the 6th-13th Feb in 3 cities/3 states so try contacting him again now. Unfortunately one of his flights was delayed so my retune got bumped. Hopefully I can catch him next trip in a month or so. No news yet on the flex tune/E85.

Be good to hear how you go. I'm picking up my DD C-lights tomorrow and will see if I can find time to fit them over the weekend. Plus going to black-out the housing while I'm at it too

Car manufacturers are primarily concerned about selling new cars. After all that's their business. Helping current owners upgrade their cars so they don't have to buy the new one does not help them sell new ones and if anything will delay peoples time to upgrade. So for sure they'll include the feature in the new car but try and make it hard for you to retrofit it to an older model. Case in point the little windows in the mirror housing to allow you to see the turn indicator. To retrofit this requires a complete new mirror housing. So if they can make it difficult to retrofit the head unit then they will. Likely the fascia will have to be changed also.

First few reviews: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U8G5EDul4_o Actually there's a ton of stuff on there. Not 100% sure on the styling of the front headlights, though the DRL/parkers look a ton brighter. I think the biggest changes are the head unit and interior trims. Not going to ever enough to tempt me to upgrade but should be enough to entice a new car buyer.

No mention of the flex tune but I didn't ask specifically about it. I'm hoping to catch up with him this weekend as he's in my city doing tuning. I think he's going to be pretty busy as it's his first trip of the year.