Sarang

You need to add washers. It shouldn't be venting during part,half or full throttle . its opening prematurely.

https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2584643

I'm sorry but I am not at all convinced of that. Please explain it, if I'm wrong I'd like to know it!

It makes sense to me that if the turbo wants to make ~23psi at partial throttle, that the bpv would vent.

I'm on a partially custom FMIC. I started with the REV9 '10 WRX kit and tweaked it to fit. It's pretty large, but my research indicates that the difference in response and pressure drop between no intercooler (chemical intercooling) and a large FMIC is within the realm of statistical noise.

You're making me doubt myself... I might go out and see if I can adjust the preload...

It this is the case, why would it not be opening at WOT?

EDIT: Brain fart. My BPV is connected ~9 inches from the throttle body. It's discharging reflecting a pressure drop before/after the throttle. I just popped out there and adjusted the preload. It was softer than I thought that I had it set at. I moved it to a quarter turn below the stiffest setting.

That sounds like you need to increase the preload on your BPV. It should only open when there is a significant pressure difference between the turbo compressor outlet and the manifold after the throttle plate. That shouldn't happen ever during steady throttle like cruising on the highway.

 

Your compressor is making boost and you are dumping it to atmo. Could be fouling plugs.

It's at max preload, and it's fully recirculated, so I don't run rich during that time. It opens at ~6psi difference, which is pretty often at partial throttle in high gear under load. Keep in mind that this turbo used to spike to above 23psi in the same conditions before I ported it, so hearing the BPV whoosh a little seems OK to me.

I couldn't justify the woosh for the extra 120

Same... and also, now that I went FMIC, the BPV is closer to the driver so I hear it more

Probably not, since you will only lose air when it vents which isn't very often or for very long of a duration. You will maybe see a rich spot after a venting.

Mine vents for longish periods of time. There's a long mild hill on my way to work that I go up in fifth with partial throttle and maybe ~3psi of boost, and I can hear it venting the whole time. I would be concerned that a minute or two of running rich would be too long. The vent between shifts would be only a second.

After much reading, I bought the Go Fast Bits Mach 2 t9133. Hopefully the install isnt too bad.

Take out the radiator fan (two bolts and a plug) and go at it from below. The oem bpv might stick if it's never been removed before but overall it's a pretty simple install.

You're doing it wrong. Hand in your man card.

29, Male, Project Engineer/Estimator at a prominent mechanical contractor in the state.

2010 LGT, previous love was a 2002 Toyota Celica GT 6mt swap (still in the family)

FMIC, 3" turbo back exhaust, GFB BPV, 2013 3.6R springs & struts + 1" strut spacers, sway bars f&r, 25mm hubcentric spacers, Primitive skid plate, Perrin shift bushing, Boomba shift plate, Perrin shift stop, heavy steel shift knob, Perrin steering lockdown, rear diff bushing inserts, rear subframe bushing inserts, front strut bar, and, my personal favorite, Subaru logo puddle lights.

Cars still down burning just a ton of oil. I'll get to that once it is consistently warm. In the meantime I did some other stuff. Xuji suede steering wheel wrap and Vvivid 3M carbon fiber vinyl. The vinyl wrap is a pain but makes it look just so much better. Turned out pretty well I think!

 

 

Nice!

Now do the wood trim too...

I did notice the benefits of the engine mount a little, the power seems to get to the tires quicker with less drivetrain lag.

Bruh, you gotta get the rear differential bushing inserts. They make such a delightful difference when you shift into second or third under load. The mush that you didn't even realize was there goes away.

I'm telling you, if you like that engine mount, you love 'em.

No offense, but why take it back at all? You've established that they're no good. You deserve better.

I would suggest asking to speak to a manager and telling them that since their tech thinks that your car is FWD and that camber doesn't affect tire wear, that you'd like you money back. Also, they haven't even aligned it if the specs didn't change, they just did a check. Those are typically free.

They didn't do the thing that you wanted them to, and the blew smoke up your butt. Not cool.

Did you guys here about the new Tesla that broke the sound barrier? (vid below)

Have you read the power road blocks sticky ? Lots of great info in there .

I have, thanks.

Right now I'm very happy with my power level, the only thing I'm dreaming of improving is spool and response. To me that means either e85 or meth, neither of which is likely to happen this year, if at all.

The only e85 station near me is by my work, and I would be kind of uneasy being so far from a station on days off. On the other hand, meth injection is more complicated and expensive and requires more monitoring and fail safes.

This might be all I do for this car... of course I thought that back when I got the downpipe...

Thanks guys.

With your information and a bunch of internet research I have learned a lot today. It looks like my AFRs are good. I'm going to email my tuner about the weird feel at boost, the laggy feel, and the rough transitions. I think I will also take a log of those things happening and ask him to take a look. I'll also ask about the steady WGDC because I am curious, and because I'm interested in a broader usable power band. I'll also ask what he thinks is my limiting factor right now. I bet it's my ACN91 and stock turbo, but I'm interested in his thoughts.

Hey Guys.

My e-tuner just sent me an email saying that my recent logs looked good and that if I'm satisfied we're all done. I have some concerns and I was hoping y'all would reassure me that I'm not crazy here... or if I am, let me know. Here's what's going on:

My idle is kind of rough and rather stinky. I have gotten comments from strangers and coworkers that my car is running rich.

The car does not take the clutch as well. I haven't stalled it yet, but there are a lot more close calls.

The car is laggy. Full boost is around 3k rpm, where it used to be ~2600.

The car feels kind of like it's bogging at full boost.

The car only hits full boost (18psi) for a brief window, ~700rpm.

The AFR at full boost is ~11, shouldn't it be ~12, or am I misinformed?

The WGDC is flat, no increase in lower rpms or higher. (that would explain my peaky boost?)

The transition from WOT to partial throttle, or vice versa is sharp and jerky.

Less important note: I thought with the FMIC I could run a little more boost. I know PSI isn't everything, but it's weird to me that I'm hitting lower with more intercooling.

So am I crazy here? Do I have incorrect expectations? What are your thoughts?

I'm not mentioning which e-tuner because I wouldn't want to drag anyone thru the mud if I'm just being a total N00b.

Thanks.

Since the stickies are locked, would one of the mods please add this info to the "Parts from other Models/Years" thread?

Mr Gasket 738G Water Outlet Gasket

used as the gasket between the turbo compressor outlet and an aftermarket charge pipe

Thanks Brendan, that's an awesome offer, if i get the chance to buy it back jut will be some project for sure, i think I'd go full rally. Only problem is i owe about what it's worth so if i buy it back it'll all be out of pocket, no idea what they'll want for it

 

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let us know what that number is please sir (for the buy back) Some things are worth so much more than the dollars involved.

Airbags didn't go off but the frame is ripped apart in front and there are engine and trans issues so I'm pretty sure it's totaled, number 100 has been retired

Oh man those pictures are hard to look at...

Glad everyone's OK! I wish you luck with the insurance company.

Huh! She escaped from the garage again today. She looks so .....plain. Gotta get the headlights blacked out.

You removed the black center piece from the lower grill? Was this recent?

I'm trying to decide if I like it.

It might look really good plastidipped black like the chrome from your upper grill.

What trouble code(s) are you getting? If you unplug the battery to reset the ECU, how quickly does the code come back? I'm not sure how a non-reactive cat would affect mpg at all, but I wonder if a bad O2 sensor would. Catalytic converters need a rather narrow af ratio to function and not go bad, so even if your cat has gone bad, I would wonder if there was a more interesting reason for it.

Assuming you do need a new cat, I would suggest getting an OEM cat off of ebay and installing it, that sounds legal. It would be cheaper to get an after market direct fit part and have it installed with the OEM heat shields. It would be even cheaper to have just the old cat cut out and replaced with a universal one and have them try to fit the heat shields back on over it. IMO all these are pretty environmentally friendly. All of these would be more reasonably priced than going to the dealer.

It’s funny, the man who worked on my car said I should get rid of it as soon as I can. He said that he sees more Subaru’s come in for work, normally little things - annoyances - than he does FCA products.

I don't want to debate reliability, the statistics are out there if you want to look at facts vs hearsay. I will say that it is an interesting tactic to trash talk Subarus on a Subaru forum where you're asking for help.

I will be getting a downpipe soon and I have been looking at the Invidia catted or catless one. How does it compare in performance to the Nameless downpipe, and which one would you guys recommend?

Invidia catted: Get a tune and go, no problems.

Invidia catless: You might have overboost issues which might be resolved with porting the IWG.

If I could do it over I would have bought an Invidia Catted DP.

Does anyone know how to have the doors unlock when I take the key out of the ignition? How about putting the windows down from the key fob?

If those are possible with stock hardware it would be news to me. My fob doesn't even have a window button.