blackobxt

2 hours ago, KZJonny said:

I’ll remember this, and come asking questions if I ever find a WRX in my climate that isn’t a rusted mess…

There are some, but these days it’s nearly impossible to find a bugeye, so doing a conversion on a ‘04-06 or thereabouts would be the only way to ‘make’ one….

Hit me up anytime. It’s really not that difficult, but brand new oem parts were $$$$$. If that’s your goal id find a good front end in a salvage yard and drill and cut out the core support and grab everything else you can. It’s just a matter of removing the existing support and squaring up and welding in the new one, paint and start bolting things up.

as you can see here when I did the Hawkeyes conversion I welded in the proper core support. 100% oem parts
 

Not a fan of the blacked out headlights or the “stance” but will be easy enough to fix.

Yeah I think that’s the plan. I have regretted selling this for a while now. He would let me borrow it when I would visit and refused to sell it back to me. I could fly down and throw the original motor back in it, but I’d rather not have to store anything over there. That and I have a stand up jetski I really need to bring back that’s there as well that would probably love to see water again. And this is far beyond the scope of a good deal. There are beat up trashed clapped out wrx’s going for quite a bit more than what I’m getting this for.

I’m not currently in the market for a new car, but my friend who I sold my Sti to many years back just told me he’s planning on throwing it up for sale and he wanted to give me the option to buy it before he posts it. 
 

car is a 2005 Sti and here’s what I did to it before selling it to him:

Converted front end to hawk eye with all oem parts

painted aspen white originally silver

aps 525 front mount

dw850 injectors

invidia g200 catback 3” dp

tuned by me on e85

sold with around 62,000 miles with lots of extra comfort goodies installed heated seats, 5 channel amp, touch screen, 2 way remote start.

since he has owned it he added:

coilovers avid1 Av-20 and it now has 121,000 miles.

he bought a spare 257 motor on a fresh build with pauter x-beam rods, supertech pistons, Perrin inlet, fp red, tial ewg, tgv deletes and dw850’s. He pulled the perfectly fine motor to switch to the built set up and got caught up in utv racing and enjoying his e85 gr Supra and hasn’t touched it since. He threw a killer deal at me if I buy it as is with both motors and all parts and honestly I’ll deeply regret it if I pass it up. 
 

my concerns are the car is 1,000 miles away from me so I have no idea how I’m going to get it to az. Maybe rent a uhaul and trailer?. Second of all the car is tuned with an accessport and e85 is extremely hard to find around me. I have access tuner race still installed on a laptop, I wonder if that still would work?

1 minute ago, xt2005bonbon said:

Yeah that's the correct way to connect that kit. So yeah, sounds like you may have had air trapped in the system. You should be good now. 

Regarding the AC, I have to check but I thought the fans would kick in regardless of coolant temp if the AC was on.

Correct, need air flowing over the condenser or your ac isn’t going to have a fun time. It won’t cool and your pressures will skyrocket. 

6 hours ago, Febreze Mee said:

No, no. The question to ask is how did the Z keep up with the Leggys? 

I have worked very intimately with Z cars. More notably, the Z32s and Z33s. I saw a handful of Z34s come in. And the shop car was even a 370z Nismo, getting a prototype TT kit from one of the major turbocharger manufacturers. But this one made me look back at it, and I don't even own it. 

It was so clean. 40K miles. KW coilovers. SPL parts underneath. Brembos. Factory Rays wrapped in RE-71r s with H&R wheel spacers to add a chefs kiss the the fitment. A tame Invidia Q300. It was a pretty car to be chased by through the hills. 

I went through a pretty heavy z car phase in my younger days. Owned about 12 z31’s in total including an AE and 4 z32’s 2 of which were TT’s. I doubt I’ll ever own either again but I will always look at them.

6 hours ago, Kojak said:

Did my JDM dbl din about two and a half years ago, I believe the dimmer hvac display is the universal tradeoff for modernizing the stereo capabilities. Fwiw, my dash instrument dim toggle works well but has zero impact on the hvac brightness. It stays virtually unreadable in the sun. It will dim more if switch turned down but it’s maxed out on bright level. Generally set it before disembarking and just hit the fan buttons as needed. No fun trying to finagle mode on the highway. As w most Legacy quirks, best to just turn up the soundtrack and enjoy the ride. Let’s face it, we’re not driving Teslas. 

I have lost sleep thinking about how dim my jdm hvac is. Drives me absolutely nuts and I’ve always wondered if it’s supposed to be this way (I’ve installed 5 all of which were dim)

Ooooo damn son @m sprank. I’m living vicariously through you at the moment. 

Man I remember when you could snag a 240z for under a grand with a little bit of searching through an auto trader or a decent one for like $1,500

1 hour ago, KZJonny said:

Also just realized this topic was familiar….

Members here are happy to help, and try to keep more of these old girls on the road, but if you ask for advice, get some, then come back 4 months later having done nothing to correct it, and the symptoms are predictably worse… sympathy begins to fade pretty quick.

Let us know what you do to diagnose and correct the problems, and we’re behind you. Being in high school probably presents some monetary challenges, but with some low cost tools and time, you can at least figure out this problem. Just gotta put in the time and elbow grease.

Some of us just won’t give you advice again with the same questions and no attempt to rectify any of the issues. Your oil drain is likely your root cause. If the drain is kinked and your motor is throwing all that oil pressure at it will find the weakest place to leak which is usually through the shaft seals and into the compressor and turbine housing causing the smoke and oil in your intercooler.

Second a vac leak if rpm’s are dipping like that.

Let us know what it is please. I’d be interested in what temp it’s cycling at

Ac relay is known for being a failure point. Freon could be low, cabin filter clogged not allowing sufficient airflow across the evaporator causing it to get cold and turn off. Could be lots of things man. My ac wouldn’t cool any lower than 45° till I did the pot mod.

My cv axles were replaced long before I got the car with non oem. I keep a spare bad unit on hand so when I need to use the lifetime warranty at autozone I just bring it in and swap it out. I repeat this once or twice a year which is not ideal but part of the Subaru game unless you want to spring for oem axles. 

Can confirm that my Solus Pro can, but required an upgrade and personality key. Can also confirm that Hyundais and kias are cake to steal. Even with a smart key they can be hot wired to start just as easy as a 1990 F-150

That’s interesting, my dad has a 2005 and 2006 outback 2.5i and they both have the same bolt in wheel bearing/ hubs as my 2005 xt. His 05 forester 2.5i and my cousins 05 Wrx had press in bearings.

Just don’t go crazy. Pussy foot it around. I originally put my car together for my wife who loved it till we moved to az and she decided she didn’t want to push a clutch in stop and go traffic.  She doesn’t care about going fast at all so having it tuned just wasn’t a big priority so I put a boost gauge in the car that would sound an alarm if the car went over 7psi of boost. Now it’s my car and things have changed dramatically, I just wish I knew it was going to be mine from the start because I would have built it a bit differently 

Dude, my modded (bigger turbo, downpipe etc) outback was driven un-tuned for about two years. Most boost it saw was 3lbs and the gauge would sound a warning. One of those un-tuned drives was moving from Cheyenne to Peoria 1,000mi at 80mph. Right before I had it tuned I did a compression and leak down when I did new plugs and it was just as perfect as it was when I put the motor together 20,000mi prior. There really isn’t enough load out of boost to hurt the motor unless the tune is absolute garbage. 

I don’t mind either. Now get that bitch tuned.

Gotcha. I went with oem which was actually pretty affordable at $37 a piece. I figured they had a pretty good track record since they survived 18yrs on my car so the new ones will likely live well past the rest of the car.

48 minutes ago, MajorWood said:

The only difference between brain surgery and car repair is the amount of force involved, with cars requiring a lot less.

Just dropping in to let people know you work on brains?

Some questions you’re about to get:

You say it’s bone stock then say some upgrades. What are the some upgrades?

What dyno was it on? They read differently.

What year is your car? How many miles? What kind of condition is it in?

2 hours ago, Rusty9 said:

I dislike the piano black trim in the new STI since it's impossible to keep clean! It shows everything. I keep a microfiber cloth in the door pocket to wipe it every day I drive it. I can't imagine having it around the radio that you touch all the time lol.

I’m sure it highlights every scratch as well. I’d have an aneurysm with how dusty dirty it gets here in the desert

That’s the stuff right there.