blackobxt

I actually hit you up on the tube recently asking about tire size and if you were on the forums. When’s that 6sp swap video coming?

14 minutes ago, silverton said:

You can't talk to me that way! *Points towards my embroidered technician shirt*

Man I need to buy these and start handing them out

Is the fear that’s pasted all over the internet  that pressurizing the crank case runs the risk of blowing cam or crank seals out and that’s why you should cap them? I’m with m sprank on that it’s user error from way over pressurizing the system. I’ve boost leak checked via pressurizing tons of vehicles without capping lines and never had any issues with blowing out seals.

Get ready to have fun with those cam bolts. Have a back up plan just in case

That exhaust valve could just be hanging a touch. When we test our race engines they sometimes leak till you tap the valve a few times or rotate the cam a few times

What psi did you smoke test at?

52 minutes ago, Code said:

I plan to drop them off at a local shop. $350 for the set.  

That’s a lot better than the quotes I got. Are you going to just do a vinyl decal for the lettering?

2 hours ago, Code said:

I have pieced together a full brembo setup.  The calipers will be powedercoated, i'm thinking some sort of gunmental or dark gray with white lettering.  MachV cost just a hair under $1k all of the parts and pieces to do a full rebuild and a set of front pads and rotors.  I'll get some photos up when theyre done.

What are your plans for the powder coating process?

Leak test for sure. Check all lines especially the one to the fpr. No positive pressure on the fpr in boost equals no increase in fp

Mmmm where’s them pics

8 hours ago, m sprank said:

Wow. Just wow.  This is like the blind leading the blind.  You DO NOT HAVE TO HOIST THE ENGINE.  You can simply use a block of wood on the head and jack up the engine enough to do the work.  No hoses disconnected, etc.  If you are very careful, you do not even need to remove the O2 sensor from the exhaust manifold, you can disconnect the wire and leave the sensor.  This is a simple job that some are making FAR more complex than it needs to be.  You will need to remove the manifolds. so have new gaskets for that. 

 

Rather than write a step by step off the top of my head, I simply did a quick google search and...

https://subaruidiots.com/oil-pan-removal-and-install-on-subaru-stiwrx/

 

These instructions say WRX/STi, but  its all the same. 

Yeah that was my bad, I was skimming the post in between working and somehow my train of thought went from oil pan to transmission mounts to thinking this guy was asking for advice on pulling the motor. Apparently I need to start drinking coffee.

Ooooffff sorry. Forgive me for posting so early in the morning, I completely forgot that you were just wanting to pull the oil pan and went off the deep end on engine removal lol.  Out of curiosity…. Have you 100% verified that it’s the oil pan that’s leaking? I’m not saying it’s never the oil pan but it is pretty rare. The power steering pump can leak and run down behind the timing cover and coat the oil pan giving the illusion that it’s leaking. Seen a fellow mechanic misdiagnose this before 

9 hours ago, relative4 said:

Excellent, thanks.  Making sure I know what needs to be disconnected before lifting:

Intercooler, dogbone, engine mounts, intake hose

Downpipe - just the support bracket, or that and disconnect from the catback, or remove entirely?

Transmission mount?

What else?  Thanks!

Do not remove the trans mount. Trans will stay in place supported by jack 

Under car: 2x 14mm nuts for motor mounts

2x 14 (if I remember correctly) for bottom bell housing nuts

Top of car: remove radiator with hoses and fans. 2x 10mm bolts on radiator bracket, single fan plug and two hose clamps.

remove air box: unplug maf, loosen hose clamp and pull lid and hose as assembly

Disconnect power steering pump (not hoses) and lay it to the left side of engine bay

remove alternator

disconnect a/c compressor (not hoses) lay to right side of the engine bay. 

remove intercooler and disconnect pitch mount from motor and angle it up and out of the way.

disconnect downpipe from turbo several 14mm bolts and nuts

remove remaining starter and bell housing bolts 14mm

remove 2 heater core hoses and vac line to brake booster

disconnect 2 fuel lines and vacuum line to regulator

disconnect engine harness plug

start to lift motor by mounting points and get a Jack under the front of the trans and lift enough to clear motor mount studs and remove engine

if you have an auto, you remove the torque converter bolts from an access port on the top of the motor on the turbo side.

I may have missed one or two small steps but it’s not a hard process

Lol the whole care needs painted. I’ll probably try wrapping them for now. I can find them all over online new in textured black even sold in pairs for $50 but none in paintable 

11 hours ago, m sprank said:

Trials and tribulations of daily driving a 15+ year old car.  They are not built to last, lol.  Spent 2 years working out the gremlins on my 03 Forester build prior to driving daily.  

Tell me about it, shes definitely starting to show her age. Things did not go as planned last night; I got into the door and not only did the release cable break on the end that clips into the door handle but the exterior door handle broke in the exact same way as the other side did three weeks ago. So now I’m looking for a new latch assembly and some handles. I just need to make a list of interior odds and ends and start sourcing parts. 
 

OP, these cars are getting to the point where there are going to be a lot of things breaking simply because they are old. If you are feeling abnormal resistance on something, expect to be learning how to fix it lol.

Lucky for you but unlucky for me I need to get into my doors tonight so I’ll take some pics of what needs to be done. I have enough door lock actuators sticking that the bcm is detecting a fault and keeps taking the locks offline. Kind of a pain in the ass with two little kids

Literally went through this recently and had a post on it. You can roll the window down and get in between the belt Moulding and the door panel where the window would be if it was rolled up and use a long flathead to pop the plastic cover off the door latch mechanism and push the lever on the top down and the door will pop open.

At this point color doesn’t matter 

Well Antoine have an outside door handle for sale?

I’ll fix the door handle tomorrow but for now I’ll take my victory to the couch with a nice hard drink.

Alright boys I was successful! The way the door panel fits there was no way to even get the putty knife in there at least without scratching and destroying stuff. I thought about trying to get one of my curved hose picks in from the outside but that was also not looking good. I rolled the window down and went through the belt Moulding next to the window and tried popping the cover off the door lock mechanism and I’ll be damned if there wasn’t a lever right there on top. At first I thought that with my luck that’s for the door lock but nope it popped the door right open.

1 hour ago, Infosecdad said:

From my quick testing, you need to push to unlock which should be easier than having to hook and pull.

That’s good to know because on the passenger side it’s the opposite. Alright this is seeming possible. Gotta wait for the wife and kids to go to bed then I’ll give her the ole college try and report back

1 hour ago, Infosecdad said:

Based on the location of the child lock switch, you may be able to get a strip of metal that is stiff enough, but still flexible to bend and slide in between the door and the frame and toggle the switch off so the inner handle would work.  You would have to go at it from the inside and snake a little bit; but I think it would be possible with the right thickness of a strip of metal.  

I was actually thinking about this. Cutting a notch in a putty knife and wrapping it in a thin layer of masking tape to prevent scratches and seeing if I can hook the child lock with the notch

Yeah I’m going to try that. Quite a bit of the rear part of the panel goes behind into the door jamb when it’s closed is my biggest concern. I’ll be trying everything before I resort to YNANDP lol