blackobxt

Yea, spend a bunch of money. When you think you’re done, spend some more but also brace yourself for the additional expenses.

in all seriousness prepare yourself to spend more than the cars probably worth if you really want to fix it.

1 hour ago, Dishwasher said:

Aisin Timing Kit was what I got last time, seemed to work well. Has Gates recovered from their episode of manufacturing defects or stick with the Aisin?

 

I have ARP head bolts in the current block now from a prior head gasket issue. I figure I'll reuse those as my understanding is that ARP head studs are reusable where OEM are not. If there's any damage to them then I'll replace. 

What's the go to radiator for stockish levels these days? That's a good call. 

I'll snag an oil pump shortly as mine is the original. 

I’m interested in what the verdict of the question.

I’m interested in that Sti fpr. Can you pm me price and more details on the hoses 

What turbo is that and why rotated I wonder 

Oofffff. Fix that drain for starters. If oil can’t drain out of the turbo it’ll push past the seals

Just accept that low life lol

King springs would still be low like a stock legacy but you wouldn’t need a spacer for the squat. Not sure how this setup would work or ride with ob springs but I’d wager on not great. The outback struts are physically longer than the legacies.

And these things are getting more and more expensive. A friend back in wyo took his 2015 Sti to Subaru because it was knocking and they quoted him $11,400 to go through the heads, new short block, oil pump, oil cooler, timing belt, new turbo, etc etc.

Lots of foreshadowed YNASB (you need a short block) in this post. Turbo failure in these cars more often than not is accompanied by engine failure. You can send an oil sample to blackstone, but you’re checking all the boxes for the typical engine failure post. Unfortunately I agree with M sprank that as soon as you saw metal in the oil that you should have expected the worst and started diagnosing with the mindset of “its IS fucked and likely needs an engine”

In all the years I owned my Sti I can probably count the number of times I used the intercooler sprayer on one hand. The one time I ran it at the track, I used a bag of ice and had a friend pull it out before I got to the burnout box. I can’t really tell you if that was worth it or not lol

10 minutes ago, KZJonny said:

Nothing to see here folks.

Lol similar to this with much smaller clips

I’ve never used cam locking tools on any timing belt I’ve done. Closest thing I’ve used is actually on our cars and I’ll go get those cheap plastic clamps from harbor freight and clip them on drivers side sprocket to help hold the belt to the sprocket

That didn’t bend them. Line everything up and count teeth or do whatever you have to do to ensure it’s lined up right and carry on.

Does anyone have part numbers for the actuators? Mine also sounds like a percolator.

Will do! The listing of things I wanted to do to this car is steadily getting smaller and smaller  and the remaining things are pretty expensive. 

Konis and Swift springs ordered. Going to be torture waiting till august to put them on.

I have the whiteline rsb with braces and was extremely impressed with how much of a difference it made, and that was with used worn lgt suspension.

Thank y’all for being the voice of reason. Going to do some more research but I think I’m going to try a Koni swift combo. 
 

I’ve had issues with whiteline but their customer service has saved it for me. One bushing was missing a crush sleeve, another one had a wrong size bushing and  some void filling inserts showed up as a mustang trans mount insert. They sent me new stuff no questions asked and even threw me some free stuff. But I will likely go oem with the ball joint

I’m appreciating the opinions both good and bad here.

the car is a daily driver that will never see any auto x or will go down any drag strip but will see the occasional spirited romp and I would like to lean into it a bit on the occasional corner. I just want to be able to enjoy the car a bit more and enjoy the appearance but not have it feel like total garbage. Admittedly what’s on the car now is the most I’ve modified on any of my cars suspension wise. I usually keep the stock suspension maintained and occasionally do some lowering springs and pour the power to them. Most of my notable cars have all been fairly unexciting suspension wise (several mustang gt’s, an 04 cobra, the 10+ z31’s and z32’s, 05 gto) but I really enjoyed how my stock 05 Sti felt driving around.

Looking for opinions. I’m currently looking at bc racing or fortune auto 500. Want it low and tight but not looking for a kidney shot every time I hit a bump and am curious on what you guys would recommend.

also what’s the preference on balljoints, oem?

only bushings that aren’t whiteline in the rear are the ones with the cammed toe bolts since I’m sure I’m going to have to cut them and even if they come out nice I’m just going to replace them. Is 901700122 the correct part number?

thanks in advance

my 05 outback xt, currently on lgt struts with king springs in rear And whiteline rsb. Will be getting all the parts for the subframe spacers removal at the end of July when I go to Wyoming for vacation.

I’m currently running mevotec lca’s and they were clunking on both sides at about 10,000 miles. Currently trying to decide what to replace the ball joints with 

just to add, I knew about the ball joints being less than reliable when I bought them. My stock lca bushings were trash and I wanted to go aluminum without paying for spec b parts.

I felt that the LED’s worked decent in my outback’s fogs but they were very poor in the headlights. Went back to HID’s in the headlights after a few days of trying LED’s.

48 minutes ago, kent55 said:

I have this harness connected to my HIDs. No issues.

https://ddmtuning.com/Dual-Relay-Harness

 

This^. It likely needs this to handle the initial current demands of turning on.

Does the hid kit use relays?

90% of the HID issues I’ve seen on these are from cheap kits and weird voltage from the DRL. Do you have DRL disabled?

You’re buying that car for the wrong reasons. What you’re wanting will never be beneficial over the cost of just buying a gt. If you want more power, the gt will be cheaper even if someone gave you that 2.5i for free.