RumbleRumble

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Water and grease don't mix. I just wipe the old grease out as much as I can, I don't use any cleaners just in case I can't remove it all and then the cleaner mixes with the grease. What sea foam product did you put in the standard universal or the hydra trans tune? either way do not drive more than 50 miles. Dump soon.+ for 16in wheels it's 32F/30R cold pressure.

CV boot can be replaced and repacked with grease. I'd only do this if it's a fresh tear and the axle isn't making any noise. I used be able to find used ones for 25$ but it's hard to find good ones anymore. I can do plugs is about 30 mins. get a once piece magnetic gear wrench spark plug socket or a locking 6in extension. The plugs have probably not been changed in a while. I'd grab a set of NGK plug wires for 40$ on ebay. I'd go on tirerack and look up all terrain/ATS tires and what's around your price point. Change all the fluids, do oil changes every 2.5k miles at least. It's a 20 year old car everything is going to need to be replaced eventually.

They are on the car. Message me for any other info you need.

Canada has a lot of 3rd gen JDM stuff. Since they can import the whole car and the US can't. just parts.

you can import a JDM muffler or buy a universal one and have it welded on.

up garage, ebay, classifieds, yahoo action japan.

put the FWD fuse will ensure the wiring is fine, if not I'd try and replace the duty solenoid. It's mounted on the rear of the case.

Harmonics and unbalanced components are one worry, plus the heat the flywheel will circum to and ability to retain and shed heat matter. I wouldn't run any lighten items. Spend your money replacing worn suspension, new driveshaft bushing and u-joints, new rear diff bushings, solid trans and motor mounts, aluminum control arms, good tire, short throw shifter and poly shift bushing. Things of those sorts will make a huge difference. It's the small details that will matter instead of trying to get more power out of the engine just make the car work together better as a whole. The SOHC engine was not designed to have any forced induction. The block simply can't handle real boost reliably for long.

Banana arms (a-arm, control arm) steel or aluminum only have one bushing and they are all the same.

you have the 04 engine. no fuel filter in the engine bay, only in the tank.

2005 Subaru Legacy GT Wagon Engine: JDM 20x long block. 5-Speed Manual Mileage 114,000 Base Map Tune making 10-11 PSI. VF40 Turbo Mods and Recently replaced parts. -JDM 20x long block. I've put about 4,000+ miles on the swap so far. I've done three oil changes since. -GS 3 Port boost controller -shorti "catless" downpipe. Catted DP with the cat removed. Just for the looks so you can pass inspection. -Custom TGV deletes -Custom stainless steel dual catback exhaust -Top Feed injector conversion (440cc) -New Tein Flex Coilovers on semi-stiff setting. -Cobb Short Shifter -New One step colder NGK plugs -New Air filter -New Cabin air filter -New Radiator -New Condenser -New Rear adjustable upper control arms -OEM Timing belt kit done at 101k reused from old ej255 (13k on it) Needs. -Tune. -Front subframe needs a thread insert for the D-bracket on the sway bar, makes noise. -Front and Rear pads and rotors. -Driver window switch has a hard spot but still works. -Blower motor makes noise but still works. -E-brake needs adjustment/new hardware. Comes on aftermarket wheels and winter tires with 2 seasons left. Comes with red mudflaps, and a bike rack, plus what every else I have laying around for it. 5,000$

The only real options are KYBs or coilovers, OEM ball joints are 30-40$ each and for after market TRW, AC Delco profession line, delphi.

NGK or OEM for ignition. Those are the only parts you should use.

you'll have to take the window off the regulator. remove the window and then the regulator and motor assembly, It's bolted in a couple of spots. never done a rear one though. https://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Subaru-Window-Regulator-Rear-LH-Power/201485519984?hash=item2ee9790c70%3Ag%3A9fUAAOSwHPlWb8x1&fits=Year%3A2001%7CModel%3ALegacy%7CSubmodel%3AGT+Limited%7CEngine+-+Liter_Display%3A2.5L%7CMake%3ASubaru%7CTrim%3AGT+Limited+Sedan+4-Door%7CEngine%3A2.5L+2458CC+H4+GAS+SOHC+Naturally+Aspirated

https://www.ebay.com/itm/44165AC020-Genuine-Subaru-GASKET-OUTLET-44165-AC020/182718197692?epid=2177265798&hash=item2a8ada6fbc:g:M~MAAOSw~SJcbZTZ I ordered a shifter joint from this seller and got it in less than a week.

we need a video at least.

Parts- https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/subaru,2002,legacy,2.5l+h4,1378784,heat+&+air+conditioning,cabin+air+filter,6832 Video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BLMayqSYPm4+ it's the two part filter

02 USDM Impreza WRX will fit.

do you want to go OEM or aftermarket? Stock size or bigger? What kind of driving is the car going to do?

What coolant and what kind of thermostat did you use? Sounds like a air flow issue maybe even water pump. Make sure the cooling system is burped full then go from there.

The purge valve is a electronically operated solenoid located under the intake manifold closer to the passenger side. If that answers your question.

used bumper of the same color? also yours is a 2004? should have the face lift bumper.

EJ259 heads are single port, it has 5 O2 sensors and three cats and the intake is setup different. Also you would need a different ecu. Yay for low emissions.

Drive shafts are different between auto and manual, Final drives are different between some Base model legacies and outbacks 3.90 4.11 or 4.44 Wagon mufflers have longer tips Rear seats for a wagon have a latched point which sedans do not have