Fabsx

Taking any offer for this! Price might be high, but I do take any serious offers into consideration

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Well the time has come.

Took the bullet and going to STI Brembos.

So basically with that said, I will be selling my Factory/Oem brakes.

Calipers have 91k miles, no sticking pins or seized calipers. Car is driven on the weekends only and always bled with fresh fluid every year.

They are painted gold about 4-5 years ago using G2 paint kit. To this day, looks brand new! Will include stock brake dust shield for front rotors.

Rotors and pads have exactly to 4,500 miles on them. They are the PowerStop z26 rotor and pad kit.

Now, not sure exactly on the exact price for the kit, since people can pick up reman calipers and such cheaper. Therefore, I’ll be going off those prices for everything, buyer will have to pay for shipment and PP fee.

Off a parts website, before shipped cost and after core returns and no tax, $610

My asking price for everything here can be grab for $500

If you wish to see shipping cost, three large boxes from zip 18020.

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Offered received and SOLD.

This can be closed or left to die

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You did get oem coilpack correct?

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You seem to be having quite a few knocks on Cly4. The count just continues up and up.

I would suggested to recheck your plugs, ensure the gap is between “0.027-0.030”.

Do the “spring stretch” on the coil packs.

And while your at it, toss in a can of fuel injection cleaner in the tank.

Looks like the main focus is cyl 4 at this point. There is a small vacuum source above cyl 4 for the fuel pressure regulator. Verify that isn’t cracked or damaged.

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Well if everytime you reset the ecu, your resetting everything.

When you go back into full boost again after, ecu detects something off and tries to correct itself.

Your dam/iam is probably dropping below 0.5 and disabling your boost controller and only allowing wastegate. I’ve seen this personally without a cel popping up.

I would say it’s fuel related, but you tried another station. Maybe try another and pour yourself inside the tank a octane booster. (Royal purple max boost)

See if that helps your problem.

Other wise, you might benefit to a cobb tuner to be able to monitor and do some logs to see what’s truly going on.

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Still haven’t checked out the stuff I mentioned huh?

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Bump it up. Offers?

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So if everything you said is true,

Here’s the most possible reasons to where the fault is.

Bpv/bov

Wastegate issues

Clogged cat

Bov/bov, replace with the aftermarket one you have.

Wastegate, test function with air compressor and see if it moves.

Cat, not sure, aftermarket downpipe with cat?

If fuel trims are good, thats the only thing I can really say

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Seriously?

 

 

Couple of posts up I pointed out that I looked for boost leaks, tightening the clamps on both ends of the coupler between the intercooler and throttle body. Also checked the other clamps along the intake track. There are no leaks I can find.

 

 

Just got a call from the service manager at the dealer - the tech is going to call me - everything they have checked has turned out to be just fine. They also pulled the carpet and looked at the ECU and saw no damage to the cables going to it or to the connectors. It still does the same thing - reset it and it's all good, then it goes into limp mode. they also said there was a software update of some sort which they did, but that didn't fix anything.

 

 

If it were a problem with a coil or a plug, I would think the car would misfire, but it's not doing that. I am wondering if there isn't a loose cable or pinched wire somewhere that's giving electrical noise that's being interpreted as knock or something like that... if they throw in the hat and give me the car back, I guess my next step will be to trace the wiring from the knock sensor back to the ECU and see if there is anything messed up...

Doesnt matter about the throttle body coupling being tight. It’s a known fact they leak due to the design of them.

Replace that with a aftermarket one to be safe and from future headache.

Second thing, your tmic could of separated as well, also a known issue.

Third thing, intake manifold o rings are known to be a issue of the past. Verify with soapy water. Check the charge pipe o ring as well.

Or just simply have it smoke tested versus asking us here and shooting down every opinion that is given to you.

Don’t mean to be a a-hole here, but we’re simply trying to help you out.

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He’ll probably say he did and then go back to the resetting the ecu fixed the issues and saying that isn’t the issue.

Looking forward to the issue honestly

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Simply weird.

No correction or codes. Sounds like a leak, but if it isnt. There only one true spot that can cause issues.

Check your bpv/bov.

Verify everything is connected, remove bpv and make sure it’s working properly.

Make sure during removal/installation that the valve seat position is facing the charge pipe and not the inlet side.

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What is this hose for exactly? The hose that connects the turbo inlet and MAF housing?

Yes sir.

Should be number 17 on the Subaru photo

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So from what I’m gathering, you got the motor rebuilt?

You’ve replaced the vacuum lines on the turbo?

Doesn’t seem right. Stock gate pressure should be 8psi.

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Question for you.

Can you grab photos of the turbo area and vacuum lines?

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Anyone interested?

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Looking to sell my Mishimoto Lower intake hose.

Fitment is 2015+ Wrx and also 2010-2012 Legacy GT.

Recently did a good amount of upgrading and ended up replacing my entire turbo inlet, and no long need this hose.

Looking for $80 shipped, or best offer.

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Engine

- COBB AccessPort V3

- TurboXS 08+ Wrx fmic

- Custom full 3” intake and turbo inlet

- TGV deletes

- KStech intake spacers

- BorgWarner EFR6758 NW

- IQ Performance headers

- Tial MVS Ewg with dump tube

- Crawford AOS

- ID1300cc

- OTL Street coilpacks

- 06/07 Sti fuel pressure regulator

- FlexFuel Kit

- DW300 fuel pump

- 15+ Wrx radiator fans(slimmer then factory)

- 08+ Wrx Mishimoto aluminum radiator

Drivetrain

- Perrin 2015 WRX Shifter Bushing

- Clutch Damper Delete

- Subaru OEM 2015+ WRX Short Throw

- Perrin 2015+ WRX Shifter Stop

- Competition clutch Stage 3

- Sti group-n transmission mount

- Whiteline diff inserts

Exhaust

- Invidia Catless Downpipe with vband to fit turbo housing

- Invidia N1 dual catback with resonater deleted

Suspension

- Koni insert Sturts

- Tein springs

Brakes

- 08+ Sti brembo swap

- Raybestos R-300 rotors

- Powerstop carbon ceramic pads

Wheels & Tires

- Avid1 Av06 18x8.5 35offset with 235/45 General As-05

Cosmetic - Exterior

- Blackout headlights

- Weathertech window visor

Interior

- JCS pillar pods

- Aem gauges

- Kenwood double din

- Black seat covers

- Window tint (5%back,20%front two,5%strip)

Exterior Lighting

- TRS 55w H7 5k

- Auxbeam led Highbeam

- oEdRo led fog bulbs (multi color)

Interior Lighting

- Phillips leds all around

Power Numbers

93 Pump @ 18psi

450tq/450hp

E85 @21~22psi

473tq/499hp

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That's awesome! congrats!

 

 

 

What's your current setup? I couldn't find your build thread...

Will have to make one soon.

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Incase anybody that still looks back at this thread and wonder how everything is still going.

I would absolutely recommend grabbing a 78* Celsius thermostat, part number #21200AA072

Upgraded aluminum radiator, doesn’t matter what brand. They all do the same thing. I option out for the mishimoto one (08+ wrx)

Both of these help with temp issues. I was running high 195/214 temps. After thermostat and rad, 181/194 temps.

I did however had to upgrade/repair my turbo. Long story short, called up SoCal porting up in CA and they got me all fixed up. Hybrid 20g turbo, clipped turbine and fully ported and polished.

I option out to ditch the stock plastic turbo inlet and upgrade to the perrin inlet. 15+ wrx full 3” design. Not a direct bolt on, you will need to utilize a remote oil relocation kit.

Tgv deletes and spacers, like every other subaru build.

And lastly, Id1000cc injectors with 06/07 sti fuel pressure regulator. (Stumble issue corrected)

Will all said and done, grab a flex fuelkit and got her retuned with the fmic.

Final numbers as of today, both fuel at 18psi;

344Hp/363Tq on pump

381Hp/408Tq on E85

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Got my Legacy dyno’d today!

Made 344hp/363tq on pump

381hp/407tq on E85

Yes my legacy is on flex fuel.

And oh yeah, those numbers are both at 18psi of boost!

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Stock car.. stock injectors.

No guessing here.

Get some stock oem denso ones and see if they’ll run good. That’ll answer your question.

Or find someone locally and take a peak at your map and see if it’s been opensourced.

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That shield goes on the driver side, near the back of the more more.

It’s a shield for the sensors there from the downpipe.

I had the biggest confusion to where it went at first too. But I figured it out.

There’s also a ground strap attach to it from the chassis.

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Here it is Denso...but i do agree, on Amazon you're not seeing the Denso Green Injector??? hmmm

If your Gt is not tuned and completely stock.

You can most certainly know that those are stock size CC injectors then.

Anything else will result in a completely poor running car.

You have the turbo model or NA?

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Guys,

 

 

 

Does anyone knows the size of the injectors on the 2.5 GT Legacy. I've also attached a picture of my current / stock injectors....however, i can't find out what's it size / cc.

 

 

 

Regards,

 

Brian

Whatever those injectors are, they are not the stock ones.

From my gathering and research, those seem to be the stock cc flow, but a ebay/amazon brand. Non denso oem brand

I’m guessing your having issues with them?

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