Fabsx

I'll be doing more engine work than I've done in years. Hopfully this will track down the issue. I think I'll finally have some time to start on this Sunday.

 

Just ordered a compression tester.

It’s quite easy doing the plugs.

Not sure on your mods, removal of intake box and charge pipe gives room for passenger side.

Driver side is only the battery.

12mm for the bolts of coilpacks, two/three inch extension with a sparkplug socket to do the plugs.

Try also stretching the coil spring inside the coilpack boots to insure a proper connection.(I do this to all the Subarus I’ve work on doing plugs, never had issues with it)

Insure sparkplugs are gap to spec, “.027” is the sweet spot.

Don’t forget to move cyl 4 coilpack to cyl 2 to see if it follows or if doing the plugs helps too.

And please use NGK plugs. Don’t cheap out with anything else or denso.

I did try the new NGK Ruthenium on my 2010 GT and they’ve held up pretty good with my protune and making 500hp lol. Part number I used is NGK #93420, again gap mine to .027.

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Swap coilpacks from four to two and see if the count follows.

If not, how old are your plugs?

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Not yet but planning to.

Give it a shot before anything.

Just starting to think your coilpack is going bad

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Have you tried my reset method and see if the dam goes up?

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Agree

Must be time to swap cyl 4 coilpack to cylinder 2 and see if it corrects the count on 4 and follows to cyl2

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Definitely not the engine cradle/sub frame bolts. All are present and tight to the top. Also checked out steering rack, and reverified that suspension stuff is all tight this afternoon.

 

Starting to think I need to do at least a front brake rotor and pad job to see if that takes care of it.

My next thing was to suggest possible pad slapping.

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Is the lower right gauge correct for AFR? Couldn’t find AFR in the menu.

 

 

 

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Negative

It’ll be AF Sens 1 Ratio

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I'll swap out the temp gauge for AFR. Also, after cleaning the MAF, the DAM still just sits at .812. Goes up a bit if I get on it, but in normal driving just sits there. I didn't have any time to work on it over the weekend. We are moving in 2-3 months (moving with company) and were packing.

Get knock sums/count for each cylinder and do a log

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My 07 had a clunking when I got it. Previous owner gave up on finding it and that’s why he got rid of it.

Two months later, during a clutch swap. Notice the passenger side engine cradle had a missing bolt and other on was half way out.

Once I got a new bolt and tightened everything, the clunk was fixed.

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Also try and see if you can get your dam up before anything.

Reset ecu with cobb.

Warm up vehicle for 10mins for ecu to relearn, shut off and restart.

Drive vehicle to open road without going into any boost.

Then in 3rd gear, bring rpms at 2500rpms to build about 2-4psi of boost for roughly 5secs or soo. (Brake boosting will be needed to achieve this)

After 5-10secs, let it through the rpms and hopefully your dam increases to 1. (If everything is good, you’ll see it increase)

After that, verify boost levels.

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Check your vacuum lines on the intake manifold and hardlines on passenger side that are near the charge pipe from turbo.

Verify the coupler on the tmic to tb didn’t start to blow out.

Double check your tmic endtanks for separation.

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05 legacy gt with a top feed conversion done.

Tgv, fuel rails, injectors and top fuel line were from a 2010 wrx.

Don’t forget that 2007 to 2012 Legacy Gt are top feed as well.

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Selling my 07 Legacy radio. Upgraded to the jdm unit, so figured I’d put this up forsale.

Unit is p-204uh. Minor wear in it, it is used and functioned 100%. Not really sure what they go for, but I’ll start at asking $200 plus shipping.

Hazard button is included, as well as the factory aux input

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Where on the block exactly? Was it in the same spot as Chocoholic005' picture? That spot on my block already has a bolt through it (hex head) but would be ideal since i wouldn't have to extend or modify the ground cables. I was hesitant to take the bolt out because i'm not sure what it is for. Do you think i should be okay?

Follow this diagram I highlighted yellow.

There is 4 12mm bolts around the manifold. The one near the throttle body is where I and where you should just use it.

Remove the 12mm, it’s a long one, slip the ground through it and retighten it.

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I just reattached my grounds on my 07 with the TGV bolt to block(12mm)

Everything seems to be working fine so far.

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Welcome!

 

I would forgo the catless downpipe regardless of inspection, it will make your and your tuners life so much easier. And since you probably see at least some freezing temperatures in the winter you will want some heardroom on the tune to keep from overboosting. In Florida "winters" I usually see a .5-1.5 psi spike in boost.

 

Also, there may still be a slightly used 20g in the marketplace, for the price I would jump on it over the 18g at full price. You will make slightly more top end at the cost of a few hundred rpm on the bottom. With a good tune and supporting mods you would likely never tell the difference.

20g still available if you’re interested! Pm me and we’ll talk on pricing!

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Pretty good spool, however both graphs are the same

Funny! Literally made me double check.

The top graph should be an overlay of the 20g e85 and 6758 e85.

Bottom should be 6758 pump and e85 graphs.

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Old 20g setup with E85

Current setup between pump and flexfuel

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Yes, IQ says it will work with all those B1 frame non wastegate turbos.

 

The 7163 I found was used by a shop owner in TX with less than 1k miles. He ran it on his R32 GTR temporarily before going bigger. Side note - the guy does a lot of Subaru builds including machine work and engine assembly. I had never heard of his shop but they run a time attack car and he's very knowledgeable. P2P Racing is the name of his business.

 

$775 so I couldn't pass on it. 90° compressor from Full Race was about $250. I also got a v-band downpipe flange and Turbosmart BOV block off. Are you using the integrated BOV on the turbo?

 

Are you running the turbo speed sensor? Seems like overkill to me but mine came with it. I think I'll pass on it and leave the 90° housing undrilled.

 

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Using the stock bpv on the turbo. I wanted to get rid of all the stupid hoses I had and was able to have my buddy weld up sections of my fmic kit.

No turbo speed sensor.. don’t find the use for it since I’m not crazy hp.

Stock aftermarket downpipe fit perfectly, chop the flange at the weld, slap the v band on it and extend the tail end 2”. Everything fit perfectly, you’ll have the clock the turbo around and angle it just right for the nipple on the bpv to clear the oil filter.

If anybody was wondering.. the stock oil hard line is a M12x1.0. I grabbed an brake adapter to fit the -4an line for the turbo

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Unknown clearance with the undertray is the only reason why I haven't purchased the header yet. Please post pics so I can cross that off and get my order in.

 

In the meantime I did get a screaming deal on a 7163. So I guess I've already somewhat committed here.

 

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Will do sir!

I believe between the 6258/6758/7163 efr turbos, they will all work with the headers.

My tuner said with the 6758, it was the best fit for the engine displacement. I forgot what he said about the 7163, but I’ll ask him this week when i go back to him.

Just get the 90 degree compressor housing to make your life easier.. trust me, i tried the normal housing and it was much more complicated. Luckily the company I purchased the turbo from gave me a killer deal on the 90.

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I have the Primitive plate. Fitment is spot on. Go ahead and order one. Been running one since I switched to EWGs over 5 years ago.

 

So there are no clearance issues with the entire setup and the OEM plastic undertray?

 

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Haven’t been under to test stock undertray yet.

But my guesses will be closer then expected. Already scraped the ewg tube on a small bump.

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You're a brave soldier. Bets on which one goes first - motor or trans?

 

How do you feel about E85 and stock head studs?

 

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Honestly I’m just taking it as it goes. Dont beat on it 100% and now I dont have to bang gears just to keep up if I do ever want to go quick lol.

E85 will be my choice of fuel while at this level, feel like it’ll save me some time. But then again, I am vigorously changing oil more frequently and plugs every year.

Starting to look into building a long block anyways. So I’ll be ready.

If the trans go, true sti 6speed will be in with plates to adapt the motor mounts and so fourth.

Who said stock cams couldn’t make power [emoji23]

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Those are some very impressive gains for a stock 5th Gen motor with bolt ons.

 

IQ performance is a Russian company. I see they make a version that looks like it fits the stock turbo. Is this going to be a normally stock item? or your version a custom one off?

Yeah they make the stock flange headers as well.

As far as stock item, I don’t know if they build to order, but they built my headers in three-four days after receiving everything needed.

Cool thing about everything is that they basically 3D our under belly/motor mount/ oil pan and can see what fits or not.

Have a small sample he sent me of the bracket for the Downpipe.

Otherwise, IQ Performance did an amazing job and by far amazed to this day on how the GT is performing. I’m waiting to get my dyno graphs emailed to me.. but you guys wont believe the amount of power it picked up and how much the power-band shifted. Tuner and I on the first hit on 93 was dumbfounded on what it did off gate.

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Believe for me was the magnaflow catback. Quite even with a catless downpipe.

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Any other pics of dump tube? Looks tight in there near the downpipe.

 

Is it not touching the header and/or downpipe? Maybe it's just the angle of the pic or was this prior to final adjustment?

 

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Prior adjustments after the photo. It’s actually the lowest point of the whole car.

Does not come near the downpipe.

Actually that I remember now, the downpipe wasn’t secured 100%, was resting on the jackstand. The downpipe moved up another 1/2-3/4”(twisted up).

Once I figured out if I wanna stay with the plastic tray, I’ll get ground clearance photos. But, I’m leaning towards a aluminum covering.

Anybody have any metal skid plates that they recommend?

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