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Fabsx

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Posts posted by Fabsx

  1. Delayed on an update here. Been running really well 1000+ miles on the new setup with a protune.

    Had a hard time figuring out gains with the new fmic, steamspeed 20g and id1050's pump.

    Fwiw car previously was Dyno tuned at 335/412 WITHOUT the previous mentioned.

    Since I have a new tuner that's local we did road tuning instead. This is us throwing the results into a 15+WRX specs. Fwiw baselines for the WRX for him were between 215-220hp/220-230wtq.

    Sooo a 100/100 gain is pretty incredible. Not knowing true number we're assuming I gained about 30ish up/20wtq. Being that this was Shane's (Islandborns) previous turbo roughly a 30hp gain was what he saw too. Also Bryan @BNR mentioned years ago about a 30-40hp gain. I forgot my EBCS at home so another 10-15hp is on the table for up top we're guessing.

    Power feels like it's everywhere. Butt dyno feels the gains that's for darn sure.

    Overall we're thinking to be in 365-375hp/425-440wtq range On 91. I'm loving it. Here's the powerband[ATTACH]282678[/ATTACH]

     

    Sent from my SM-G960U1 using Tapatalk

     

     

     

    If this helps, almost the same setup.

    I did 345hp/390tq pump

    400hp/420tq e85

    Both at 18psi

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  2. I disconnected the main ignition harness and the car still turns on with the push button. Also if I turn the key to be in "ON" position, I can turn off the car. BUT still the AC doesn't turn on even if the key is in ON position :(

     

    What push start button system did you install? Do you have the wiring diagram for that?

     

     

     

    EasyGO system, almost a PNP system.

    Push start, remote start and unlock/lock door handle.

     

    I would double check your wiring and verify you’re good.

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  3. thought about the TMIC too since i'm living at south of texas with sometime three digits summer, but a friend of mine with 06 STi said havent seen any heatsoak with his stock TMIC...

     

     

     

    Wasn’t suggesting to changed it?

    My context was suggesting to look over your OEM tmic for separation. Something your 06 sti buddy doesnt have to worry about due to all aluminum tmic vs ours (plastic to aluminum to plastic)

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  4. https://drive.google.com/open?id=1DfOpeG1vkS2A1s07ByTNcdgwuX4JR66x

     

     

     

    There is black harness with 2 pins and a gray harness with 6 pins in my picture that I have put a circle around them. I thought you're referring to one of them and I disconnected them one by one.

     

     

     

    If I unplug the black one, the car doesn't turn on even with the key.

     

     

     

    If I unplug the gray one only the red light around the ignition turns off and it seems nothing else changes.

     

     

     

    The main ignition harness is in the picture as well and I put a rectangle around it. Were you asking me to disconnect that one? I assumed since that is the main ignition harness, if I disconnect it, the car will not turn on.

     

     

     

    It would be the main one with the rectangle.

    I would double check your wiring to verify everything is hooked up.

     

    Also, does you car turn on without the key near the car at all? Lets say in your pocket, does it turn over with just the push start or remote start?

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  5. Here is the whole wiring diagram for Legacy 2010 which I assume is same as 2011:

     

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1B_g2MDQTZTu70KMH6M6Hkvhasx-p7R2-/view?usp=drivesdk

     

     

     

    And here is a picture of 2 harnesses that I see at my key tumbler

     

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BnoslSvzzll9rGWrbx-8b_gmGEiqB2pp/view?usp=drivesdk

     

     

     

    Can you take a picture of the harness you disconnected so I know which one you're talking about?

     

     

     

    Quick question, when I mentioned to disconnect the ignition, which harness did you disconnect?

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  6. That's interesting. What's the exact model of your car and what push start system did you install?

     

     

     

    Mine is a 2011 Subaru Legacy 2.5i Premium and it seems like all accessories work fine when I start the car using the start-stop button (the radio, seat warmer, 12v power port) except the AC. If I turn the key to the "ON" position, then the AC can be turned on as well.

     

     

     

    So are you saying without any modification to your ignition harness your AC works even if the key is not in the "ON" position? I thought you originally mentioned that you had to unplug a harness from your key tumbler.

     

     

     

    The disconnection was to leave the steering unlock for good and not to worry about having it lock. I physically removed it that day to verify and plug it back in to see if it did that without me noticing. Sure enough, everything works exactly the same key in or out.

     

    But yup, i can leave it the ac on, shut the car off. Next day or hours, I can start it up and it will be on.

     

    2010 Subaru Legacy Gt 6spd with EasyGO system.

     

    If you have the wiring details, post it.

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  7. what lights flash? did your mechanic pull codes? if so, what were they? also a bad cat would only cause a CEL, which is only 1 light, not a lit up dash board with multiple lights you understand that you have given us next to nothing to give you advise on.

     

     

     

    Actually if you get a cel, you’ll get cruise and traction control and brake light flashing.

    So he is correct on the dash lighting up.

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  8. Intake cam spins clockwise

    Exhaust cam spins counter-clockwise

     

    When doing the timing, put new water pump in and the idler pulley on the left of it on, align the driver side cams to the timing case marks. Set up the crank to the correct spot, attach the new tensioner(do not remove pin).

     

    Now mark up the timing belt to the crank and carefully wrap it around the tensioner and both cams and with keep tension, around the water pump and idler pulley, this’ll help keep that side stay aligned while you finish the other side.

     

    I’ve tried many methods and this seems to help me.

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  9. Ultimately, you need the integration into the AP for the ethanol sensor.

     

     

     

    Not sure what your talking about.

     

    But it basically is the same as a Cobb kit, plug and play, Cobb AP reads the ethanol sensor and fuel pressure just like the Cobb would.

    Heck, my protuner even said it acts just the same as a Cobb flex fuel.

    Car made over 380hp/410tq on E85 with the option to use pump 93 whenever I want.

     

    I should say the kit was well worth every penny spent vs Cobb.

     

     

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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