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Posts posted by Fabsx
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I disconnected the main ignition harness and the car still turns on with the push button. Also if I turn the key to be in "ON" position, I can turn off the car. BUT still the AC doesn't turn on even if the key is in ON position
What push start button system did you install? Do you have the wiring diagram for that?
EasyGO system, almost a PNP system.
Push start, remote start and unlock/lock door handle.
I would double check your wiring and verify you’re good.
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thought about the TMIC too since i'm living at south of texas with sometime three digits summer, but a friend of mine with 06 STi said havent seen any heatsoak with his stock TMIC...
Wasn’t suggesting to changed it?
My context was suggesting to look over your OEM tmic for separation. Something your 06 sti buddy doesnt have to worry about due to all aluminum tmic vs ours (plastic to aluminum to plastic)
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https://drive.google.com/open?id=1DfOpeG1vkS2A1s07ByTNcdgwuX4JR66x
There is black harness with 2 pins and a gray harness with 6 pins in my picture that I have put a circle around them. I thought you're referring to one of them and I disconnected them one by one.
If I unplug the black one, the car doesn't turn on even with the key.
If I unplug the gray one only the red light around the ignition turns off and it seems nothing else changes.
The main ignition harness is in the picture as well and I put a rectangle around it. Were you asking me to disconnect that one? I assumed since that is the main ignition harness, if I disconnect it, the car will not turn on.
It would be the main one with the rectangle.
I would double check your wiring to verify everything is hooked up.
Also, does you car turn on without the key near the car at all? Lets say in your pocket, does it turn over with just the push start or remote start?
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Here is the whole wiring diagram for Legacy 2010 which I assume is same as 2011:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1B_g2MDQTZTu70KMH6M6Hkvhasx-p7R2-/view?usp=drivesdk
And here is a picture of 2 harnesses that I see at my key tumbler
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1BnoslSvzzll9rGWrbx-8b_gmGEiqB2pp/view?usp=drivesdk
Can you take a picture of the harness you disconnected so I know which one you're talking about?
Quick question, when I mentioned to disconnect the ignition, which harness did you disconnect?
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That's interesting. What's the exact model of your car and what push start system did you install?
Mine is a 2011 Subaru Legacy 2.5i Premium and it seems like all accessories work fine when I start the car using the start-stop button (the radio, seat warmer, 12v power port) except the AC. If I turn the key to the "ON" position, then the AC can be turned on as well.
So are you saying without any modification to your ignition harness your AC works even if the key is not in the "ON" position? I thought you originally mentioned that you had to unplug a harness from your key tumbler.
The disconnection was to leave the steering unlock for good and not to worry about having it lock. I physically removed it that day to verify and plug it back in to see if it did that without me noticing. Sure enough, everything works exactly the same key in or out.
But yup, i can leave it the ac on, shut the car off. Next day or hours, I can start it up and it will be on.
2010 Subaru Legacy Gt 6spd with EasyGO system.
If you have the wiring details, post it.
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Im lost on this.
I can actually remove my key, and have my ignition on the off position (plugged in) and allow my remote start and/or push start to start my vehicle, and the ac will be on regardless. Actually, all my accessories work without any key being used.
Definitely sounds it can be a wiring matter.
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Which push start did you buy?
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07 Legacy Gt I just picked up two weeks ago.
220k, but motor has be resealed 80k ago. Everything else is still oem, kept oem catless uppipe alone. Went to stage two with no issues.
However, look over your tmic. Mine was separated and causing a leak, but replaced with a process west one and going strong!
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I believe you can have it on the on position, but would have to unplug the ignition harness at the key tumbler side.
When I installed my push start with remote start, I also had to cut my key in order to unlock my steering wheel. My current position is on with the harness unplugged and everything works as it should.
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what lights flash? did your mechanic pull codes? if so, what were they? also a bad cat would only cause a CEL, which is only 1 light, not a lit up dash board with multiple lights you understand that you have given us next to nothing to give you advise on.
Actually if you get a cel, you’ll get cruise and traction control and brake light flashing.
So he is correct on the dash lighting up.
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Intake cam spins clockwise
Exhaust cam spins counter-clockwise
When doing the timing, put new water pump in and the idler pulley on the left of it on, align the driver side cams to the timing case marks. Set up the crank to the correct spot, attach the new tensioner(do not remove pin).
Now mark up the timing belt to the crank and carefully wrap it around the tensioner and both cams and with keep tension, around the water pump and idler pulley, this’ll help keep that side stay aligned while you finish the other side.
I’ve tried many methods and this seems to help me.
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Anyone?
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Selling my exhaust. Believe to have the mufflers bypassed, so they are basically straight pipe.
Moved to a different route on my exhaust.
Looking to get $250 for it, picked up.
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Thanks for that! Which was higher btw?
Factory coolant temp sensor.
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Interested in knowing about the single exit fitment as well.
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With my location on upper rad hose, I did the test with the ecu (cobb) monitoring factory sensor vs my external.
They was off by 5 degrees on cold start ups, and within 3~4 degrees at fully warmed up.
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Have had my sensor located up in the upper rad hose. Exactly in front of the alternator. Haven’t had any issue with it.
If you wanted to go for the clean look, guess you can do the lower hose.
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Thought I recognize this car on his feed. Car seems to perform well!
Welcome to the 400tq club [emoji23]
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That plug I believe is for the puddle lights under the skirts. If your legacy wasn’t equipped with it, that’s the plug.
And when it falls on it’s face, does the check engine pop up?
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If the notes doesn’t state anything about removal, don’t worry about it then.
If your going 3port, you’ll get rid of it anyways with that install.
When I was stage two ots map, I never touched the boost components. When I went for a protune and 3port, that’s when I removed it.
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Ultimately, you need the integration into the AP for the ethanol sensor.
Not sure what your talking about.
But it basically is the same as a Cobb kit, plug and play, Cobb AP reads the ethanol sensor and fuel pressure just like the Cobb would.
Heck, my protuner even said it acts just the same as a Cobb flex fuel.
Car made over 380hp/410tq on E85 with the option to use pump 93 whenever I want.
I should say the kit was well worth every penny spent vs Cobb.
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Dont see why pay top dollar for a name brand.
I have a flexfuel kit from a different company and been problem free since install! Not to mention paying atleast 50% less.
After seeing this post, kinda glad I didn’t went Cobb
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Interested in any trades?
Send me a PM and tell me what you got.
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s2baru's "InFrontAutomotive" built, stage3+ 335hp/412tq
in Fifth Generation Legacy (2010 - 2014 )
Posted
If this helps, almost the same setup.
I did 345hp/390tq pump
400hp/420tq e85
Both at 18psi
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