Fabsx

Have a set of unpainted black front sti brembos. Buddy and I bought a couple of sets that needed love, we stripped them and resealed. That being said, they’re completely stripped of paint and bare and ready for powered-coating or paint. New seals and pistons. Comes with new set of hardware and all threads have been cleaned and inspected prior to doing anything. Asking $640 shipped for them. Anyone local will get a better price. Rears may be available, we’re still trying to get a couple of sets in. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I’ll take a look tomorrow to the bolt and photo it. Worst case.. i have a 20g for ya if it ends up being the turbo [emoji51] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Photo is highlighted of the hose to drain the turbo oil pan. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

On the ap, under tune/adjustment, see if retarding your timing by a degree each run will correct your issue. Your vacuum at idle is prefect. Which leads to no leaks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That is the tumbler generator valve. Operation is only under cold start conditions for cold start emissions. If it’s shut closed, your running a lean/rich condition on one bank causing issues. If it’s stuck open, which doesn’t seem to be likely, it’ll throw a fault code. Delete it or fix it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

He unplugged the maf once and drove it with the same issue still. Therefore maf is fine. Unplugging maf causes the car to run off the factory specs on ecu and map sensor. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Negative You should be able to do everything while the intake is installed. Remove the “death” shield from the tgv housing. About four 12mm bolts. Believe also a ground point is connected on the rear of the shield. Once that’s removed, you can access the two 12mm holding the rail down. After that, disconnect the injectors connecter and swap them. Make sure to oil up the orings and inspect them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There is still a good amount knock reading on cyl4. Air leak can still be a factor, however upon my experience.. it be all cylinders showing counts then. If you’re up to the task.. swap cyl 2 and 4 injectors and see if it’ll change the count. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Id be interested to see this .. could be something good for the 07 I have too Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sealed, pre-oiled prior to storage and package! Ready to be shipped. Did I mention comes with new header to turbo gasket? Oem subaru. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Pm me an offer.. never know Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Turbo still available for purchase! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Bump!! Taking $175 shipped + pp Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Some vacuum lines aren’t active unless the car is on. Evap and some others are tied into a solenoid that T off into the manifold. Normally I do a smoke test with the vehicle in test mode with the radiator fans unplugged to not have air moving blowing the smoke. That way all solenoids are activating. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I might look at the stock map file to see my theory... but I believe if your dam drops or is lower then 1.. the boost will be less then expect to save the motor. Have you check all connections at the turbo? What is your vacuum/boost(ap setting) at idle with ac off. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I guess I’ll put my 07 GT recent protune up. 220k body, 86k motor rebuilt/headgasket Vf52 with upgraded internals, billet compressor wheel and ported. (Done by mysef) Tgv deletes Secondary air pump delete Cnt ewg uppipe Tial mvs ewg Invidia downpipe Greddy catback Processwest TMIC 3” Turbo inlet K&N intake Synapses DV ID1000cc injectors DW300 pump Flexfuel kit Competition clutch stage 3 93pump @18psi on sport sharp 280whp/280wtq E85 @21psi on sport sharp 330whp/340wtq Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Keeping closer. Do the reset with the dam relearn procedure and see if it’ll get up to 1 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That really isn’t the way to combat heat soak. Mostly just forcing air in the intake. You would do the tmic with the blower, but heat soak wouldn’t change afr by alot. Did you double check all your vacuum lines and made sure no T’s were broken under the manifold during the inlet install? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Unplug the maf sensor off and see how it’ll run without it on. Half the time this’ll help figure out the issue. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes, OTS maps from cobb start at .812 Unless your protuned/tuned and your tuner sets it to 1. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

With good compression and stuff, I honestly don’t think it’s mechanical. Try unplugging the Maf sensor and see if it’ll increase dam or if your boost will go back to normal. Dont worry, your car will run on the ecu parameters with the maf unplugged. Just expect to see the cel, cruise and brake lights on the dash when you drive. This’ll determine if it’s the maf going bad. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Try doing the dam relearn procedure before doing any pulls to see if your dam goes up to 1. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You using any fuel additives? Plugs seem orange in the photos. But they look good anyways. Report back on the coil pack swap then Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Dont really have to remove the fuses. When you go full throttle 100%, it kills the injectors and spark. Kinda like a “clear/flood mode”. I do this after every oil change to build oil pressure and then crank the car on after. So just remove the coil packs, sparkplugs. Screw in the compression tester and hold the throttle to the floor and crank it over. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cylinder 1 and 3 passenger side Cylinder 2 and 4 driver side.. So yes, diagram correct Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk