BBPeik

All of those parts can be installed. It would be really nice to have all of those parts new as you would have nice new bushings for your whole suspension. That being said you do not "need" any of it. The rear caber kit would be nice though. I know that I am planning on doing something for my rear camber. Mine is fine where it is, but I would like to have some adjustability to get it dialed in exactly how I want. So imho, you don't need those parts, but man would it be sweet to have all new everything.

Smoothing 1 will give you more power than smoothing 2 or 3. That is why I suggested that we all use smoothing 3. Keeps things consistent that way.

My new label showed today as well. JLGT I imagine you should be good to go. Finally get that Smog.

I have been waiting as well. As son as it shows I will let you know.

I must agree. I do not have any nameless products, but after all this hullabaloo I sure won't be buying any. I really hope you guys get some kind of remedy and soon.

I downloaded it last night just to see if I had any trouble. Worked great, just had to get the right Java installed as has been suggested.

I have even thought of just running a water sprayer to the outside of the IC. It is not a great solution, but when it is 105 outside anything will help.

I don't launch my car either. Just too much worry on the trans. What turbo are you running now? I am sure I could find it but its too late and I am lazy. Can't wait to see what you end up with. I think the only other mod I would consider power wise, besides axle backs as I am sure I will roast the stock cans eventually, would be meth injection. That would be a nice option on hot days. That or move somewhere with e85.

Virtual dyno has the option of different dynos as well. I just use dynojet as it is default. Pretty sure mustang is in there too.

Even though it is not running I would still love to see a graph of your car prior to your current resting period.

^^^That for sure

Yes that is Boost not AF. I would be screwed if it were AF. Under WOT I am down in the 10.5 range. I was super happy with my car after the first etune on my old motor. I would still be happily running it except I had a great opportunity dropped in my lap.

Definitely drop the exhaust manifold first. If you do not the turbo will hit the front crossmember when you are trying to pull it.

Nice. Especially at 5300'

^^^Any idea on a time frame? I keep getting "I don't knows" from the dealer and SOA

^^^That is more than likely true. I just figured it was an easy way we could all compare our numbers. As far as what we need to log, just normal tuning parameters. Af learning, AF correction, AFR, Boost, Calculated Load, Dyn adv mult, dyn adv, FKC, FKL, Timing, Inj duty cyc, Maf G/S and MAF %(volt), RPM, Throttle pos, WDC. I am sure it does not use all that, but hell if I know how it works. I just use a regular datalog and go from there.

I went with the numbers for the 10- outback. Not perfect(ride height you mentioned), but much closer than the 09. The fourth gen has a pretty small nose. Much cleaner aero seems to me.

Ok here goes. 10 LGT BNR 20G Invidia Catted DP stock exhaust afetr that STI Cams PW intercooler RX Charge Pipe with turbosmart Kompact BPV Grimmspeed EBCS 725cc injectors with DW200 Fuel Pump 91 OCT Bren Tuning e tune This is a 3RD pull to redline from about 2500.

So in reponse to some discussion in the random thoughts thread I decided to start a power thread. This thread is so that we can post our HP numbers and the mods that made those numbers possible. Obviously we can not all go to a Dyno, but we can all get Virtual Dyno. It is a free download and super easy to install. For those unfamiliar with it you simply upload a datalog and it does the rest. You will need an AP to get a datalog or it is also possible to use a laptop to get the same results. I propose that we can all post our virtual dyno results and that will give us a baseline for power numbers. It is not as accurate as a dyno, but it is free and works pretty damn good. Here is how we need to set it up. 1. Download Virtual Dyno 2. Create a custom car(sorry they don;t have ours) 3. Configure the gears, drag coefficient, and weight. I use 3400 lbs plus driver weight. Probably best for us all to use the 3400. Drag info can be found here. http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/Vehicle_Coefficient_of_Drag_List 4. Upload your datalog and post your results. Lets all use smoothing 3 as well. That will keep things consistent. When we post a vdyno result. Please give a brief list of power mods. What gear pull you did and basic temp and road conditions. Then follow with a pic of your dyno. Please feel free to add suggestions. I will post first.

Very sorry to hear about that Zakster. I can honestly say that I feel your pain. What is your plan for the engine? Are you having a shop remove it or doing the work yourself? Very curious to see what went wrong in there?

^^^Now there is a man that is thinking. Love it.

^^^Crazy. I just had this exact conversation with my cousin today. He said the fastest he ever went was when he raced a guy in a vr4. They let off at 175. I always loved those and almost bought one several times.

I get a lot of the same, at least when someone sees my car and has a vague idea what it is. I generally pull the adult card too. I save my races for fun races that I might lose, corvettes porsches etc., so if I win they are like wtf was that. Much more entertaining.

FWIW I am real happy with the Eibachs. They give a pretty comfy ride, but when you throw them into a turn they stiffen up good. I know they are a great compliment to the Bilsteins, I would assume the same would be true with the Koni's. Can't wait to hear how it works out.

So sad to see that your car has moved on, but at the same time super excited to see where you go with the STI