Turkeylord

My relay opens and closes with the key, no latching problem. I still need to A/B test the STi FPCM. When I do that I will confirm my wiring and power state of the relay and FPCM. I didn't provide an overall schematic in my walk through. SBT did, but I don't think it's 100% correct.

My +12 battery feed is cut by the relay, so there is no positive connection to the pump when the key is off. Looking at your diagram, I'm guessing you didn't un-pin the FP+ from the FPCM plug.

I don't believe I'm having that issue. The car sat for 9 days a couple weeks ago with no problems. I'll have to take it apart and probe the pins to be sure. The only thing feeding power to my FPCM is the stock Red/Black, switched by the stock fuel pump relay. No additional +12 goes to my FPCM.

Interesting, so that's a little different than what I did. You're still running the +12 through the FPCM, I'm bypassing it completely.

All loaded up for tonight's National Night Out party. http://i.imgur.com/v7GZ3r9.jpg http://i.imgur.com/6vNMrqz.jpg

Seriously thought your pressure washer was a Minion for a minute there...

That looks fantastic, so much simpler!

This might be a new record... http://i.imgur.com/WvzxQAD.jpg http://i.imgur.com/6u3PiKX.jpg /thread

I'm seeing 4.46v.

Fixed my ground issue! Soldered. http://i.imgur.com/WBNfgbc.jpg Heat shrunk & zip tied. http://i.imgur.com/MoIZQcr.jpg Looking better. http://i.imgur.com/lLUpz1M.png Formula needs a little tweaking, I'll try bnguyenbb6's values and see how it looks.

For anyone interested, the relevant pages in the service manual are WI-77 & WI-86. I've attached them to this post.2005 Legacy GT Service Manual TGV.pdf

Thanks, I was just going to get that.

I tapped off the cigarette lighter personally, with a little 4 place fuse block for my gauges and failsafe relay.

My AEM manual says 18" is ideal. I'm going to stick with the bellmouth because it's simpler. <shrug> *EDIT* FailSafe manual says: That inline sensor manual says: They use the same sensor, so I'm not sure why the language is so different...

^ That makes sense. The stock one had a little shield.

Well if I moved the sensor downstream I would definitely need TP (threaded plug) for my bunghole.

My sensor is in the Cobb bellmouth bung. That sounds dirty.

Yep, this one would work too: [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Innovate-Motorsports-Digital-Wideband-Controller/dp/B00FFTAJPC/ref=pd_sim_sbs_263_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=0XV6DGFD6AJ2NZ77ZMBN]Amazon.com: Innovate Motorsports (3877) LC-2 Digital Wideband Lambda Controller Kit with O2 Sensor: Automotive[/ame]

Went back through and read more carefully... I'm guessing that's my problem then.

^ Awesome. Also, did you ground the brown wire? If so, to the chassis or the harness ground?

I might go mess with that later tonight, it's too hot out right now.

Could it be that I need to ground the brown "Ground Analog Output" wire? Would it make a difference if I grounded it to the chassis or the harness?

Started this conversation in the WDYDTY4GLT thread, but thought it needed it's own thread. So I bought an AEM FailSafe WBO2 gauge, and it's great except that it's not compatible with Cobb's AccessTuner Race. Logging with a laptop is not super convenient anyway, and I wanted to be able to log with my AccessPort only. So I found this thread a while back and have slowly been working on it. I got the 0-5v out from my gauge wired up to my left TGV input last night and have been playing with it a bit and it's not quite right. So here are some graphs from a pull I did earlier. Top graph is from the ECU, showing the WBO2 (calculated from TGV volts according to AEM's formula), the stock A/F sensor, and the raw TGV volts. Bottom graph is from the FailSage gauge directly. http://i.imgur.com/cKbCOfP.png It's reading high, but mostly correlated at the start, but when I go WOT is goes back up around 5v (lean). I talked to AEM briefly and they seemed somewhat familiar, saying there might be a "5v pull-up" or something in the ECU. Anyone know what that means exactly, or how to counteract it?

Feelin' the love in here. 2 more tees on the way to covertrussian, and for the record they are nickel plated brass construction.