Turkeylord

I rolled my own, but that should be everything you need. Can anyone confirm that the 15' red and 5' black wires are long enough to get the job done? *EDIT* I'm pretty sure I needed more than that.

Yes, it's not like the stock wiring is burning up as it is, but if the idea is to eliminate as much voltage sag as possible bigger is always better. Taking a look at the admittedly academic example below, anyone wanting to do this mod can determine their own point of diminishing returns and pick a gauge to go with.

No upgraded 12v feed to the FPCM. We only need the FPCM to handle the ground side for PCM fuel pump duty cycle. We tap into the +B terminal to power our relay's coil, completing the upgraded 12v feed direct to the pump positive side. the positive pump connection to the FPCM is disconnected (I unpinned the terminal). I'll take a hack at your diagram.

I just bought a 22750AA010 from an '06 STi. I'll do some direct A/B comparisons to the stock FPCM when I get it.

No, that thread has tons of good info but its sooo spread out and some of it contradictory/learning process. I'll try to get general questions directed over there & add a note to the OP. Some of the recent questions/answers could get moved over there maybe...

I thought about it, but I think you'd want to replace the supply to the relay too. Pretty sure I remember reading that it's in the passenger kick panel.

I would say that's probably a good threshold. I did mine in response to comments from my tuner about my fuel supply. A DW 65c & 740cc injectors should ok without, but every car is a little different. Thanks.

I assume he was referring to the method covered in this thread.

It still allows the FPCM to do its thing on the Fuel Pump Duty Cycle.

Awesome, thanks.

Anyone have a spare FPCM terminal laying around? Thinking about wiring mine with a switch to go back to the stock harness +12 in case I ever have an issue with the 20A fuse while on the road. Would be easier than tearing apart 1/2 the car on the side of the road. Not that I ever expect to have suce a problem, but you never know... Oh, and I did order a 200A circuit breaker for the 1/0 lead. Hopefully it will look more OEM than the big chrome Stinger ANL fuse holder I'm using now.

We did use a mini-excavator, skid steer, and power skreed if that counts. The power skreed is actually an invention of my neighbor and his brother, pretty cool. http://i.imgur.com/SOtJa5Cl.jpg http://www.luraconcretescreed.com/

Expansion board to the house and garage, we saw cut them into the sidewalk after it had cured.

Just found this thread, cool stuff... I just did this the other night. Dishwasher drain used to be plumbed with twice-kinked 1" vinyl hose, sketchily hose-clamped to 3/4" vinyl hose that ran all along the floor joists. Now plumbed 1-1/2 PVC to a proper piece of rubber discharge hose. http://i.imgur.com/Qje9sEDl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/esdZbkMl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/cr1XAEPl.jpg About a month ago my father-in-law and I poured me a new sidewalk. Used to be a combo of 2' wide concrete and paver blocks. http://i.imgur.com/SKvKHwDl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/CHL8514l.jpg http://i.imgur.com/SLJxcMml.jpg Also used to be two steps into the house and one into the garage...

Alright, you guys got to me... GFB Respons valve came up on Nasioc and I grabbed it. Hopefully it will help keep boost up through shifts too.

Oops, didn't know that... I thought it was just for the turbo feed...

There's a nice grommet just to the right of the pitch stop mount on the firewall. It's hidden under the firewall insulation. Underdog pointed it out in this post. Here's mine occupied by boost/O2/wires... http://i.imgur.com/UHcR9vYl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/LGI7dDWl.jpg I ran 1/0 so I wound up going though the fender and into the kickpanel area. Beyond that yes, I ran mine in the driver's side sill area.

Order the line from http://www.infamousperformance.net. When you use their kit, you'll be blocking off the stock supply line and you won't need to worry about the banjo bolt filter.

If the weather's right I'll be running this weekend again... Quick question - has anyone tried lowering the air pressure in just the fronts? I unload and spin them while launching, wondering if a little lower pressure up there would help. I tried lowering all 4 last time and it gripped like crazy but I lost some trap speed...

ftfy

I had some time tonight, so I thought I'd go get a real life measurement. My alternator puts out a steady 13.7V measured at the battery. During a 4th gear pull I'm getting 13.0V at the fuel pump. And again that's with the stock FPCM, the STi module would be higher. Sorry so potato, but this wasn't an easy pic to snap http://i.imgur.com/rSresvSl.jpg

Aww shucks, thanks guys. I had some time tonight, so I thought I'd go get a real life measurement. My alternator puts out a steady 13.7V measured at the battery. During a 4th gear pull I'm getting 13.0V at the fuel pump. And again that's with the stock FPCM, the STi module would be higher. Sorry so potato, but this wasn't an easy pic to snap http://i.imgur.com/rSresvSl.jpg

The 1/0 needs to be fused within 18 inches of the battery. This protects the vehicle in case the 1/0 shorts to ground anywhere along it's run. It's fused at 200 amps to provide sufficient current for the system I intend to install. 200A is too large for the 10awg to be fused at and would be a fire hazard if a short developed, so it's fused at a more appropriate 20A.

LOL, no... I'm running 1/0 fused at 200A at the battery. Fuel pump is fused at 20A back there. Eventually the fuel pump will run off of a fused distribution block that is more accessible.

The wire to the B+ terminal is switched with the key, not sure what drain there might be wired direct. I did not try running the upgraded positive side through the FPCM. It goes: battery->relay->pump. Only the negative side goes through the FPCM as that's where the PWM duty cycle operation occurs.