Claw

Gotcha. I think I antiseized the shock bolts when I lowered the car 14 years ago but the LCA bolts are going to be a pain. Gonna start bathing them in pb blaster this weekend. It'd be great if you can find those pictures!

Been negligent keeping up on maintenance.. figure I'll probably have to fix the CV axle now that it's grinding. While I do that, replace the LCA and since I have it all apart, put in the Koni inserts, and do the tie-rod ends while I'm in there. A whole cascade of stuff. Does anyone remember who sold that through the trunk floor twist adjusters for the rear Koni replacements so I don't have to take apart the wagon inners every time I want to adjust them?

Interesting build. I'm contemplating going the other way. Would I need OBXT suspension parts or would regular OB parts suffice? I can probably start gathering stuff at the local Pick-n-Pull...

I signed on to see this. My neighbor asked if I can do the LCA bushings on his RVR with him. I need to do my LCAs this spring/summer too.

Thanks.. I'll call the dealership if using a borrowed gas cap doesn't fix it.

I'm only on my third car.. at 46 years old I've owned far fewer cars than most people here. 1. 98 Pathfinder, tranny syncro failed at 44,000km and the stealership messed up the fix and also wouldn't warranty their work, so I sold the car 2. 03 Toyota Celica - FWD, looks fast. 'nuff said 3. 05 LGT Anyways I started getting a P0457 EVAP code.. what's my order of parts replacement gonna be? - checking middle fuel line under the engine cover (no cracks, all hose rings are intact, nothing loose) - gas cap (generic one from rock auto ok?) - check valve on charcoal box under rear left rear well? - smoke test?

For 3800 I'd buy it for parts to keep my 05 running.. $3800 CDN is a steal.. which province are you in?

Nope.. I didn't even know that was a thing. I'll have a look..

Yeah.. pretty sure I used anti-seize liberally.. just disappointed these bearings didn't last another 150k kms.. what brand should I go with this time around?

So I put in new Timken rear wheel bearings for both sides in March.. and last week, under hard cornering the left side started giving me the grinding sounds that was the oh-so-familiar grinding from my stock bearings at 150k kms.. the Timken lasted maybe 6k kms? That was a shitty job and I don't look forward to having to do it again.

NP.. I have a set of springs I was gonna measure for you but it looks like you've got it all figured out.

Is there a good front LCA swap tutorial floating around? My OEM bushings are shot and I do happen to have a pair of aluminum front LCAs from RockAuto I purchased a year or so ago..

Length of metal, or shortest distance from end-to-end, top to bottom, etc.?

My antenna wire goes right into the oem head unit, no connector or anything. Did anyone else run into this? There's no visible way to disconnect the antenna from the oem head unit. Also, when I remove the oem head unit to connect my Pioneer, there's a few connectors from the car side that aren't used.. is it supposed to be that way?

I didn't think a full size spare was standard, although it does fit. Most owners put a full size spare under the floor and take out the cargo tray.

Has anyone tried Kirkland Signature 5w30 oil? Was looking for deals on Rotella T6 and stumbled upon Costco's oil.. Made by Warren Labs, which also makes Walmart and Amazon oil. https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/5283735/1 https://old.reddit.com/r/Costco/comments/e3smp0/kirkland_motor_oil_what_do_you_guys_think_pretty/

Thanks all.. yeah having sold the fun car, the LGT is now also the "fun" car.. and how often do I work on it? Not that often.. so I think to upgrade my electric impact with another electric will be right the answer. My current one is a two-hundred dollar piece from Cambodian Tire, but that IR model looks pretty feisty.

amm203, thanks for the rec on the electric impact. I have a Crappy Tire one but it lacks torque and my batteries don't hold a charge anymore. What are your thoughts between that and an air impact? Did the other side bearing last night, the 4 bolts came off much easier with a breaker bar with an extendable handle.. but the whole works is rusted and seized to the hub/trailing arm/watchamacallit. Doused it in penetrating oil last night, about to finish breakfast to go wail on it some more...

Having a tough time getting the 4 bolts behind the rear wheel bearings out.. my 14mm + extension + ratchet won't budge and there's 2 bolts it can't get to, so I have to use the 3/8" socket, but even at that there's barely any room in there.. what's the secret sauce?

Having trouble getting the 4 14mm bolts off from the back.. is there a way to get at the threads from the other side so I can get some PB Blaster at it? Edit: think I figured it out, have to disassemble the e-brake.

Bought my ABP 05 LGT August 2004, I still have it. I've been running Airboy's stage 2 road tune since 2006. Just rolled over 150k kms last week (93k miles). Rear wheel bearings started making grinding sounds a few months ago, both at the same time.. did the clutch, killer-b pickup, and spark plugs 2 years ago.

Went to do my rear wheel bearings, finally making a grinding noise after 16 years of ownership and 150k kms.. My ABS bolts securing the bracket to the hub are so badly rusted, my 10mm socket rounded the hex... Wondering how to get those off now..

Would you be willing to take out the rear door handles and ship them to Canada, postal code T6R 0W8?

Turns out my rear door handle has a piece inside that actuates the slider to pull the cable to unlatch the door.. that piece snapped off the handle.. similar to this. Does anyone have an intact ABP rear driver's side door handle? #17 on here: http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b13/type_27/body_equipment_exterior/door_parts_latch_and_handle/illustration_2/ Specific part number: http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/61022AG01ABE/

I broke my rear door mechanism somehow.. went to open the door with the external handle, something snapped and fell down the door on the inside. Wonder how I'll get it open now.. inside handle doesn't work either, so it's stuck closed. Has anyone ever experienced that?