NVAKeith

My trunk has been leaking in heavy rain. ~ 3 inch diameter pools in right side of spare tire well and right shelf next to spare tire well. So not excessive amounts but enough to smell musty if left unattended. Finally got around to folding down the back seat to look in while letting garden hose run down rear window into the gap between trunk lid and glass. From what I can tell, water was getting under the trunk opening weather strip and flowing down to the bottom of the gasket where it dripped into the trunk at an sheet metal seam. The steel lip that holds the gasket was rusty under the gasket along the bottom of the trunk opening, suggesting it has been channeling water and getting wet for a while. I treated the rust with POR15 and reinstalled the gasket with 3M weatherstrip adhesive. Half an inch of rain expected tomorrow, hopefully it’s fixed!

It was sorted out years ago that the marketing material was incorrect. No LSD in the USDM 5th gens. Peaty confirmed it with the service manual. https://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=3203374&postcount=10

Might be good to get a baseline price for it. Take it as-is to somewhere like Carmax that will give you a wholesale quote for it that’s good for 30 days. Then you can decide if it’s worth returning to stock. Years ago I sold them a car with a dying trans. They surprised me with a decent offer and I took my plates off it and called for a ride home. When I bought my LGT I had the opposite problem of needing to sell a bone stock 11 year old bugeye WRX and didn’t want to deal with CL tire kickers and test drivers. I listed that on NASIOC and about a month later got a cash offer near my asking price.

Nearby material supply house: PotomacSteel.com

I haven’t needed a welder/fabricator in 20 years but when I did the go-to was Action Machining in Lorton. http://www.ActionMachining.net 703-339-7232

That’s the route I went. I’ve had my 4x8 utility trailer around 17 years now. For me, an enclosed cargo area (trunk or hatch) is more useful in a DD than an open bed. Bonus points for hooking the trailer to my lawn mower at home to drive mulch around the yard leaving my DD unencumbered for commuting. The bed is all of 16 inches off the ground so I can load and unload big items solo by tipping and sliding them in.

My logic keeps coming back to this. Admitungly, I know little about the oiling system on our turbo... that said it seems to me that either the turbo is getting too much oil (feed line missing a needed restrictor?) or the scavenger pump isn’t working (not priming, air leak in suction line?). Is there a way to test it before pulling the motor?

Looks like the board I used is 24x24

The jack, accessories *and* the round foam carrier fits inside the full size spare which lays face down. You have to leave out the square foam tray that would sit on top of the stock donut spare.

Here’s an example factory jack kit and insert: https://www.ebay.com/itm/313187579187 I put a full size spare in mine using a 17” WRX wheel I already had and an appropriately sized used tire. It fits in the tire well, just leave out the foam tray. I replaced the tray with a precut off-the-shelf piece of plywood from a big box hardware store to support the trunk carpet, i think it’s 24x24.

I’d also get a diagnosis from a good dealer service department. I don’t recall what the TSB said for the stalling issue, could it potentially be fixed with just a new torque converter?

Headgaskets luckily was still under powertrain warranty so I don’t have that cost. The short block replacement was around $6k at the dealer which included sending the heads out for cleaning and a loaner car for a few weeks. SOA kicked in $2k towards that (so $4k my cost) and I believe it includes a 3/36 warranty on the SB. They indicated had I kept driving it and contaminated the heads and turbo it could have been around a $12k repair.

Love the car, second owner, 106k miles now and I’ve had it since 11k miles. Headgasket went at 59k, spun a bearing at ~91k. Budget for those repairs and then you’ll be happy if you don't need them. I’m in for the long haul as there isn’t much out there comparable.

This. I thought the unlimited mileage period ended July 31, 2018.

I recall the 2010 and maybe 2011 were susceptible to an issue with needle bearings in the torque converter causing stalling when coming to an abrupt stop. Subaru addressed all CVT concerns with a ~10/100 warranty, so if you’re under 100k miles head to a dealer. If you’re over but close to that mileage maybe you could get some goodwill $ assistance from SOA. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/stalling-issue-confirmed-259595.html?t=259595

The knob you twist For L/R is the joystick to adjust the mirrors.

Maintenance interval may vary by model year. My 2011 warranty/maintenance manual specifies inspect CVT fluid every 30k miles and for severe driving conditions replace every 24,855 miles.

Ah SOA. I appreciate the goodwill assistance they have provided over the years. But some information that you know they have they are funny about looking up and divulging. I bought my LGT used from an independent used car dealer 300+ miles from my home, it was 1 year old with 11k miles on it. At the end of the 3/36 warranty the third brake light in the Subaru trunk spoiler took on water. I had a local dealer repair it which they did by removing the spoiler and replacing the brake light assembly. When I picked up the car the spoiler was not as tightly secured to the trunk lid. Repairing dealer said the holes in the trunk lid were drilled too big for the spoiler fasteners and it was held on with adhesive when I dropped the car off. The repair would require a new trunk lid which they were not authorized to do under warranty because they were not a body shop and they directed me to contact SOA. So I explained the issue to SOA and they wanted to know who installed the spoiler since they are not installed at the factory. They wouldn't help me until I had proof of who's fault this was (Port, dealer, or third party). I already had the service history for the car from the original selling dealership and the spoiler install wasn't noted. To determine if it was port installed apparently I needed the window sticker from when the car was new but SOA said I had to provide that. Fortunately the original selling dealer was really cool because when I called the sales department they sent me a reproduction (via e-mail or fax, i don't remember) of the original window sticker in less than an hour. Result was that the spoiler was on the window sticker as a port installed accessory. SOA mailed me a check to have the local dealer's body shop replace the trunk lid. Great end result but the getting there was assbackwards.

Yeah that was probably a coating of road salt. I don’t recall seeing any external leaks. IIRC the dealer said they had a tough time confirming the gaskets were bad before tearing it down, whatever that means. I was still under the powertrain warranty so I presume the dealer has a diagnostic flow chart they have to follow to ensure reimbursement.

When my HGs went it was easy to reproduce the symptoms: top off radiator, get reservoir bottle to proper level, drive on highway for ten+ miles and the reservoir bottle would overflow. Once cooled down I would open the radiator and there would be an air pocket. For my DIY investigation I replaced the radiator cap and flushed the cooling system, no change. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/add-me-gt-head-gasket-failure-list-255946.html?t=255946

If I really wanted to stay stock, I would remove and reinstall the unit to make sure it’s not an intermittent loose connection on the back. If that didn’t fix it then maybe try a map update or a replacement unit from eBay such as this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/292985017546

Found it: https://www.subaruonlineparts.com/docs/H451SAJ200.pdf

Look for a fog light install thread or video. The accessory fog light switch is part of the mirror switch so it should show the access procedure.

There is an extended warranty to cover that up to 8/125k and it also covered them with any mileage from Jan-Sept 2019. Maybe you'll find one that was repaired. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10153886-0001.pdf

^lol I was gonna guess someone sitting in the back seat had some extra sharp toenails! Or a snow brush got wedged under there...