MrTris

I'm moving to Carrollton from Minneapolis soon, any Legacy owners in the area? Any Subaru shops? Anything else I should know? hah.

 

You are gonna experience such culture shock, it's not even funny. The weather alone is gonna be a big change, especially this time of year!

 

I miss GA this time of year.

Anyone near Valdosta?

PIA.

 

Specialty: All the things, and tuning. And being badass.

Yikes! Sorry I didn't see that post in time, Bucko. Other than the gasket, did you do okay? Third time's a charm?

Does this mean we're LGT icons and/or institutions now?

It's a 50/50 application thing -- half goes on the head, and the other half goes on the VC, using the level changes (flow of the head) as the dividing line.

 

At this point, Brock, you need to pull the motor out as far as you can and make sure you scrub the surfaces clean -- can't have any remaining sealant or copper on those faces before you apply the new RTV.

No idea what I did wrong, but hooo boy is it ****ed.

 

After letting the RTV (I used copper, which I read elsewhere was just fine for valve covers) cure overnight, I started her up this morning. The valve cover started pissing oil everywhere, and now I've got about a 1/2 qt on my garage floor.

 

It felt like the gasket was on fine and the bolts torqued down nicely. I haven't had time yet to actually look at it and troubleshoot, I'm hoping its something simple that doesn't require removing the cover and checking the gasket again.

 

Also, I removed the turbo coolant breather tank to make access a little easier as opposed to jacking the engine up. Its hard to say which is more/less work.

 

Things you learned today: copper isn't Permatex UltraBlack. It doesn't seal oil.

 

Get a tube of UltraBlack and do it right.

 

Send me a PM if you want to exchange numbers and I can walk you through the correct application of the sealant to the gasket.

Turbo V6? Eh, I can't really argue. . . That's gotta be pretty fun.

Good luck! You definitely need to RTV the half moons. They are plastic and won't seal otherwise. A pretty good sized bead on the curved section and just a tiny bit at the top corners worked well for mine.

 

This. Needs UltraBlack. Not an option.

If I was going to get forged, I'd skip all the building and just get a Rallispec Cosworth block.

 

For the money, one could do better, unfortunately.

From what I can tell, forged pistons are more trouble than they're worth. It's DEFINITELY all in the tune.

Yeah the cobb AP should be on there, figured it's a given. im not doing OS. Screw that noise. I was thinking going BNR 18g turbo-wise though. I'm not worried so much about numbers in this build but mainly on how well all the new parts will work together. Just let the tuner do what they do best.

JmP has not heard from me yet. not sure what i should discuss though lol. i think he's semi close to me because in Box kitten HG thread he said he wasn't too far from Ohio. Too bad he's a got a family, otherwise I would whore out for his help.

 

He rebuilds the 40s very well, and can do larger, if you like. Quality work. I'm personally running one of his upgraded VF40s and it's awesome. I love it.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/those-you-considering-aftermarket-forged-pistons-130635.html

 

Always a good read!

 

Lately I've been bead blasting hard lines and have been painting them and then baking them. just staying busy with this.

 

this is what i get for never getting off the stock tune...

 

Best way to stay busy on a build!

 

I didn't see a Cobb AP on there for the parts list. . ?

 

Have you decided on a turbo yet? Have you sent a PM to JmP to discuss your needs?

Yeah, that's definitely new SB business, right there. Keenster, I would compare your cost to rebuild your block -- Boring and honing, new pistons and bearings, etc -- to the cost of an OEM block ($1645 from Heuberger, or ~$1800 shipped; $2081 to-your-door with gasket kit, which, you'll need anyway). I'm fairly certain you'll be just fine with a new block and a new turbo. Follow the rebuild formula, it's the path to happiness.

I once spent about a month on and off trying to isolate and fix a rattling sound from the dash, or maybe the passenger-side A pillar, or maybe the plastic trim at the bottom of the windshield, or maybe... I finally got so pissed off I left the car with a friend who's an ex-Subaru tech for a week while I went on vacation.

 

Turned out I'd left an 8mm and 10mm wrench on the strut tower while working on something else and they'd fallen into the back of the fender the first time the car moved. Now I'm working on a 'tools-on-a-string' idea for the old and forgetful. I'll retire on that.

 

Maybe start with just the bifocals on a string and see how people react?

Fujibond can be hard to get ahold of, Permatex Ultra Black is preferred by many builders. You really only need it on the VCs and the oil pump, no other places.

 

There shouldn't be any RTV on your cam towers, cam bolts or, actually anywhere near your cams, for that matter. You want the RTV to seal the oil in places it needs to seal and for it to stay there. Floating pieces of RTV can kill a motor.

 

Just witnessed a rebuild come down last weekend after some harsh valve noise. Pulled the VCs and took out the rocker assembly, which revealed a tiny piece of RTV that was clogging an oil port on the lifters.

How has hicksta not posted in here?

 

 

Something something because he sold his car to Dispatch20.

Every time I tighten a nut or bolt it breaks like it was made out of (plastic, wood, bubblegum or any other soft material other then metal)

 

You're using the wrong ratchet. Most of the small bolts, 10mm and under, are meant to be loosened and tightened using the 1/4dr ratchet, not the 3/8ths.

Love it!

Doesn't look like it's been posted yet, even if someone has!

I still need to do the stand-alone fog light control switch, and the built-in code reader.

 

You need to get an AP!

That they is. .

From what I've read, I don't think the dealers ever used a new sb when replacing them. Always "reman".

So in your opinion, the drawbacks of forged don't outweigh the pros to doing them on a DD?

 

Pretty much. If you're not planning on doing a high-boost, high-HP build, forged isn't going to help you. Spend the extra money on a good tuner; the OEM shortblock is just fine.

08-11 WRX should have D25 heads, which, will work, but will need airpump delete plates, and an understanding that your CR will take a lil' bump.