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MrTris

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Posts posted by MrTris

  1. Ok, I have a new-to-me 05 OBXT with the 5EAT. I have a silly question.... is there a how to guide or best practices guide for how to use it? The manual is pretty scant with advice. I've googled around and searched the forums, there are some posts, but nothing is the definite guide to "how to drive the 5EAT". Questions I have are:

     

    * what RPM range to upshift?

    * what RPM range to downshift?

    * do you let off the throttle when shifting? sometimes? never? always? What about in sport-mode?

    * if yes to above, is there any need to even remotely try to rev-match?

    * is engine breaking ok?

    * best to go into neutral when at a light?

    * is starting on a still start in second ok?

    * how to best downshift to quickly accelerate when already travelling at speed?

    * any other random tips or tidbits of advice such as how not to **** up a transmission worth more than the retail value of your 10 year old car?

     

    I hate to say it, but I'm a little bit scared to use manual mode because the manual basically says "hit the up button to upshift, down button to down shift! kthxbye lol!!1!".

     

    You're over-thinking it.

     

    It helps to let off a bit when shifting, it shifts easier than just staying planted on the gas.

     

    It's not nearly as "sporty" as you think it is -- it's not an SMG on an F1 car. However, the boost and acceleration are markedly different in manual vs sport mode.

     

    05-06s will upshift for you at like, 6500-ish in Manual mode; 08-09s will actually let you wrap it out until you kill it/blows up.

     

    Rev-matching?? It's a 5EAT, dude, what are you expecting, here? You can try to downshift whenever you want, but, if it's beyond the programmed limits of the trans, it'll just beep at you and not let you shift down until the revs have fallen far enough.

     

    Engine "breaking" is never OK. You thought the trans was expensive? Ha! Try an engine rebuild! $5k is the foundation, right there. (More for you, Mr. Canada!) As for engine BRAKING, well, drive in Sport mode -- it does that when decelerating, automatically.

     

    You really can't break the trans in these. There aren't a whole lot of threads or instances where someone's borked a perfectly good 5EAT without setting out to do so or doing something they should have known would result in catastrophe.

     

    Based on your questions, I have a feeling you'll find out exactly where its limits lie.

  2. Well I've got the weed and heat gun already so Im half way there I guess. I know I could do it myself, but I know I wouldnt be happy with the results. I guess I better start saving!

     

    Check out CL, call around to local upholstery shops, heck, even boat shops! There's plenty of people who can do custom interior panel work.

     

    On the ol' BBS, I believe there was at least one person who made custom fiberglass doorcards to make his own custom interior. . So that's always an option.

  3. Very nice! I had no idea those pistons would clear the 22t heads, some thick head gaskets? the ej20g pistons protrude out and the heads have the largest combustion chambers. So yeah that would equal decent compression.

    I just weighed it at 2919lbs without me, so its fun to toss around some mountain roads. Im just getting used to the 4.11 5-speed that came with the JDM RS liberty motor. Then got a 4.11vlsd from a wrecked LGT. It's definitively more fun and has much less lag. At 16psi now and just about running out on the factory turbo and injectors.

     

    Anyone know what interior door panels are swappable too???

     

    Haven't seen any doorcard swaps. Not for first gens, anyway.

  4. Nice! Not many of them at all, which is strange considering it's what the legacy came with overseas. It's a lot cheaper to go jdm if you have a catastrophic failure. However, you have to be pretty good at electrics and have a lot of time.

    How did you run your engine management?

    When I did the swap in 2002, I attempted to run the factory 22t harness. Tried several configurations, but I wasn't online or digging into forums back then. I ended up buying a link plus wire-in engine management and having Outfront Motorsports doing the initial tuning.

     

    No shit?

     

    Mine was a frankenmotor -- 20g bottom, 22t heads/intake/ECU. Ran just fine, but was at 9.5:1 on stock turbo, no TMIC. I had audible det when I ran it hard. It needed to retard timing, for sure, but wasn't able to, for whatever reason. Strange, considering how smart Subaru's ECUs typically are.

     

    I did my swap in. . '06. No tune, no nothing. Just straight gangsta.

     

    I will say, with a LWFW, 4.11s and a rear viscous LSD, that car was fast. Scads of low-end, super quick acceleration. It used to rock, laterally, whenever I took off or punched the throttle. I always swear that it was me and that car that started the turbo Subaru scene in Puyallup before I left in '07. When I came back, everyone had one!

     

    If I hadn't lost the car, I'd still have it today -- It was the first one I ever built, and cried like I lost a child when it went away. ;(

  5. Mike's got a big point, there -- Any idea how many actual lurkers there are for this place? There are LOTS of folks (of all ages, believe it or not) who don't even register, let alone post or participate, who own LGTs and have mods or have even done entire motor swaps without posting about it. Our information is helpful to more than just whoever happens to be here talking about it -
  6. A rebuilt VF40 is definitely still an option, as long as you get it from JmP6889928, who rebuilds them with better journal bearings, and, makes a custom unit, such as the one I'm running, with an 11-blade billet wheel, inconel shaft, and upgraded journal bearings. It will push up to 22psi if I want, though I'm currently sitting at about 15. I have impeccable low-end power and a very decent torque curve on stock fueling and an "OTS" Stage 2 map.

     

    Go ahead and send him a PM and ask what he's got available, it's worth getting the conversation started - He's full of TONS of helpful information.

  7. I'll be putting them in tonight. Only thing im going to miss the 60/40 split. These only have the middle pass-through. Owell, I can still fit my fishing poles through it, and that still makes me a happy camper.

     

    We had to mod to make the 60/40s fit, but, I think they'll fit a sedan just fine. Biggest factor there is the high back headrests on them -- gets in the way of rear visibility.

  8. Nice! Direct bolt in? I need some seats for mine that don't suck and I haven't had any luck finding a set of JDM seats.

     

    WRX seats should be a direct bolt-in and are some of the best replacements in the first gens.

     

    I had rears in mine, and my brother's wagon had WRX split folds, though we did need to modify them a bit. To my knowledge, we were the first to put WRX rear seats in a wagon. No one else had, at that time.

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