Opie

The OEM STi 20mm rear bar with bushings is like $60 or $70 from a dealer. Why overpay somewhere else?

Where can I has this 3.6R tune?

Performance / Lowering Springs: 2.5L Eibach Pro-Kit, 1.0" F&R, P/N: 7722.140 H&R Sport Springs, 1.3" F&R, P/N: 54427 3.6L H&R Sport Springs, 1.3" F&R, P/N: 54427.2

I won't void your warranty, period. The 20mm STI bar will not ne covered by any warranty, nor will any parts that fail due to the 20mm bar. But your warranty will still be intact. My advice, buy and install the 20mm bar yourself, no dealer will be the wiser, it looks exactly like the OEM bar, just a slight bit thicker...

Just got this back from Hotchkis....

Dr. Photo, could you post a pic of the stock front sway bar and take a few measurements? Like overall width, end link mount to end link mount, and distance from the main shaft out to the end link mount? http://www.challengepromotions.com/Wills/bar.jpg

I was just wondering the same thing...

http://www.addco.net/aftermarket/ If someone is close to Addco and could drop off a factory FSB, Addco can customer make a thicker/stiffer one for our cars....or for any car.

Here

Legacy 3.6R - No option for none.

Did I read your comment right, your car lost a little over a quart of oil during it's first 5000 miles?

Manufacturer (Warranty) labor times are different than Independent Shop (Flat Rate) labor times. Why you ask? Because the dealership technician generally has the tools and experience to do the work better and faster than someone who normally does not work on a particular car as well as having the parts and materials on hand to not cause delays. The labor times are not always less for warranty work, sometimes they are more, sometimes they are the same. Regardless, if a technician is sitting with no work to do they are not making money, doing warranty work is better than doing nothing, yes? Labor rates (the amount paid per hour of labor) can differ depending on the shop / warranty agreement with the manufacturer. I've been driving for over 30 year and have owned Chevy's, Isuzu's, Mitsubishi's, Nissan's, Kia's, VW's, Dodge's and lots of Subaru's and everyone one of them has been low at one time or another between oil changes. Some consumption is normal, and nobody should be freaking out over consumption during the break-in period. Let a professional check your vehicle and see if you have an actual problem. In this day of over-information it seems everyone that reads something on the internet gets a case of instant hypochondria about what they read. IMHO Subaru is not out to screw anyone and if your dealer is being dishonest there are plenty of other dealers around that would be glad to take their business. Of course these are just the ramblings of someone whose been in the auto service industry for over 20 years.

Here is the wording copied from the Subaru Oil Consumption worksheet; "If there is oil consumption of 1/3 of a quart (10.7 oz in 1200 miles) or more observed and calculated as part of this test, proceed with the repairs listed in the applicable bulletin." And for those that don't understand how manufacturer warranties work, warranties don't cost the dealership a dime. S.O.A. pays dealerships parts and labor to perform warranty repairs. So there really isn't any reason to "spin" or get out of doing a legitimate warranty repair. I doubt that S.O.A.'s checks bounce. So there is no reason for a dealer to perform legitimate repairs.

Every time a piston travels up into a cylinder it coats the cylinder bore with oil, the oil left on the cylinder wall is burnt off (or consumed) every time the fuel in the cylinder is ignited. So yes, all engines consume oil. Industry standard. See page 13; https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.abss.k12.nc.us/cms/lib02/NC01001905/Centricity/Domain/2007/Engine%2520Repair%2520Study%2520Guide.pdf&q=subaru%20oil%20consumption%20worksheet&ved=0ahUKEwi3gJzEltjLAhXRPB4KHbcuCkgQFgg1MAg&usg=AFQjCNFAPl2lCnIgTMrwroXkEevYpabdXg&sig2=VOXqNY9VeRqbuC3BYuZ9mg If you open you mind, you'll see that almost all manufacturers, not just Subaru, are the subject of oil consumption class action lawsuits all due to the same factors, lower weight oils due to CAFE requirements, overzealous lawyers, uneducated customers and a sprinkling of actual issues.

All cars burn oil, period. As oil's get thinner & lighter for better MPG and oil change intervals get extended to lower cost of ownership it is not surprising that it is seen more often than before. Lot's of misinformation & misconceptions in this thread. Hopefully I can clear some of it up. If your are, or think you are, having an oil consumption issue get your car to a dealership to have it checked out. If you are unhappy with one dealer's assessment, get a second opinion at another dealer. Subaru has acknowledge that some engines DO have a consumption issue and has a procedure in place to repair those. Subaru has a procedure to determine how much oil an engine is consuming and if it is above those "acceptable" levels they will repair those issues. Subaru has also found other minor concerns that are causing oil level warning lights to come on erroneously and they have repairs in place (ECM Updates, Updated Oil Level Sensors, etc) to address those as well. If your Subaru is consuming 10.7oz. or more per 1,200 miles it will receive a new, updated short-block assembly. Just note that Subaru's oil consumption limit is a lower consumption rate than the industry standard of 1 qt per 1,000 miles. If you don't mind losing a few MPG, start using a quality 5W-30 engine oil instead of the 0W-20 and any consumption you may be having will be reduced. Thanks CAFE standards.

The entire dash pad has to be removed to perform this recall.

I'm in Tampa too.

TSB are Technical Service Bulletins, they do not extend any warranty coverage. If the problem they describe is confirmed on you car and it is less than 3 yrs old and has less than 36k miles it will be covered under warranty, if not it will be the customer's responsibility to pay for the repair.

It's back

Patient... my car is 4 years old already!

It's not uncommon to have problems with the yellow toped injectors. Any Subaru tech with half a brain and the SSM3 tool should be able to pinpoint it pretty quick.

New parts guy is doing great! Give him a call his name is Manny.

How do you interpret this? I thought everything but a few of the rear links was different (aluminum) for the Spec.B but this seems to say almost the complete opposite. Here's what I get with the latest parts lookup (released last week): 20202AG161 - Front RH Control Arm 20202AG171 - Front LH Control Arm 20252AG021 - Rear RH Trailing Arm 20252AG031 - Rear LH Trailing Arm 20250AG110 - Rear Forward Lateral Link (2) needed 20250AG030 - Rear RH Upper Lateral Link 20250AG040 - Rear LH Upper Lateral Link

As a representative of the said dealer, I will reply...we didn't hear the noise because we were not able to road test the vehicle due to the safety concern with the brake line. The Braided line was rubbing on the tire and had worn some of the clear sheathing from the line. If we road tested the car and the brake line had failed we would be liable for any of the damages. We also couldn't bleed the brakes due to the same concern, once we touch the brake system we could be liable if the damaged line were to fail. We recommended replacing the brake line for you and then bleeding the brakes so we could road test the car. You said you would repair the brake line yourself and bring it back...that was 2 weeks ago, you've never come back. (BTW the protective sheathing on the brake line prevents dirt from getting in between the inner brake line and the braiding, it does this because dirt particles can puncture the inner brake line causing a leak...so regardless of how small you think the wear mark is, it really needs to be replaced). As far as the wheel spacers...for me it I wouldn't of paid it much attention...but the day you brought it in our SOA rep was there, saw the spacers on your car and pointed out that any spacers would cause undue stress on the wheel bearings, this is a valid reason to deny warranty coverage on the wheel bearings. It was just bad timing....glad to know you think we are a "stealership" as I routinely go out of my way to take care of the enthusiasts that visit us and have answered many of your questions via PM. Based on your description, I would say you have an exhaust leak somewhere before the turbo, they generally make a squealing type noise only under load. Normally they are found on cars with aftermarket headers and/or up-pipes...but I've seen a few on stock cars as well. ...of course, this is all the opinion of a "stealership" employee.