Opie

Up-pipe to Exhaust Manifold: 2 bolts: 44059AA030 2 nuts: 902370029 Downpipe heat sheild, all pieces: Upper Heat sheild: 44031AG030 Lower Heat Sheild: 44031AG040 Heat Sheild Bracket: 44021AA012 Heat Sheild Bolts: 047406120 (10 needed) Center Cubby: 66120AG03A That is a tough one...in the parts lookup it only shows the bracket to mount the rear subwoofer in a wagon...I'll have to look in the Accesories Parts Book tomorrow, some of the parts in that book aren't shown in the lookup program (on the PC).

16546AA10A

Magic; wukindada; iamboon; opie; ssekien; quest; johan; scoobydrew; intercede007; imprezu; RBP MY05 2.5i; Leonardo; Wales Garage; Fly 2.5; iceman; 2point5GT; 05garnet_ltd_gt; I wanna be first

Figured this had a lot of good basic info for Legacy owners.... Legacy Maintenance Guide (Link is no longer working)

Hmmm..... Steering Wheel Controls, .......... Front Brembo's , ........... Steering Wheel Controls, .......... Front Brembo's , ........... Steering Wheel Controls, .......... Front Brembo's , ........... Steering Wheel Controls, .......... Front Brembo's , ........... Steering Wheel Controls useful mod, not to expensive, Front Brembo's found an AWESOME price for the complete kit, useful mod that would look killer behind the Prodrives.... ...My wife's gonna kill me isn't she....

Damn I really like the Kazera KZ-B's and they are very inexpensive too! This wagon looks dead sexy with them... http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=9582

Lots of content added tonight...more to come! http://www.TheL7.com

I just haven't had the time yet to transfer them to the site.....soon though

It's somewhat live now...no content yet

...I think the site was called something like.... http://www.TheL7.com ... ...but it doesn't look live yet....

Hmmm, I heard some info regarding a web site that will be listing all the Legacy TSB's soon.... For free.... details soon...

Is somebody willing to host them? It'd be nice if Tide would offer to host them here!

I challenge you to work in a Service department...for any brand car and you'll be amazed at what you will learn about the general public and the concern of the parent company. I can tell you Subaru does take Customer concerns very seriously.

I think there are some big mis-conceptions regarding this studdering issue...and I would argue that a majority of the studdering issues would stop if people: A) Would stop resetting their ECM's every other week. B) Use a Top Tier Fuel C) Stop monkeying with things on the car you really don't understand. Then the people that do really have a problem might be able to get it resolved. When I first got my car I had some studdering, especially after about 1,500 miles. The car was then bone-stock. The only mod I've done to my car that could affect the engine is an OEM STi Up-pipe (cat-less) that I installed at around 2,000 miles. This immeadiatly seemed to help "reduce" the studdering but not take it away completely. Over time however the studdering eventually went 99.9% away now to the point that I haven't noticed any studdering in easily the last 5,000 miles. My car is a very early build date and the ECM is still original (no SOA reflash, no Cobb, no ECUtek, nothing) but it has never been reset in the over 15,000 miles of driving it's done. I personally think part of the studdering is a learning phase in the ECM that it eventually learns around. And I believe that my studdering would have gone away even without installing the up-pipe. It seems many of the members here feel that they should reset the ECM once the studdering begins and I personally feel that is a large part of the problem. Another part of the problem is fuel. Having worked at a dealer for some time I have seen what happens when the wrong grade, or bad fuel is added to a car and the results can be very dramatic. The problem here is that even though the pump may say 92 Octane you never know what is really coming out...did the tanker driver fill the right type in the right tank, are these tanks new or could they have chunks of contaminants in them? You never reaqlly know what you are getting. I think by only using quality "Top Tier" fuels the car is much happier. I luckily have a Chevron right outside my neighborhood and have used nothing but Chevron fuel in my car since new. Here is a good article I grabbed from the latest issue of Car & Driver of how fuel alone can affect you engine's operation: http://www.subaruchallenge.com/Wills/TopTierFuels.pdf I will not post the Subaru Tech Line's number, your dealer has that information and can contact them with the proper information that tey will be asking for, if you have a concern getting satisfaction from your dealer I suggest you call 1-800-SUBARU3 and let them know.

Cliff Notes: No TSB, case by case basis as determined (unfortunately) by each individual dealer, key is you need to get them to call the Subaru Tech Line with your concerns. Reflash Only applies to ECM's with the CID#'s listed on Page 6 of this thread All the car's built since the new version became availible (and all of the '06's) will already have the new programming. Resetting your ECM over and over just for the studdering isn't the best thing to do...your also erasing any of the "good" things the ECM has learned regarding your driving habits. Your car will like you better (and run better, regardless of which flash it's running) with a quality, hi-octane fuel. Best results come from "Top Teir" fuels. I am not a Tech, I'm a Service Advisor at Mastro Subaru

The dealer needs to pull the CID# from your ECM and compare it to the list I posted earlier (on Page #6 of this thread...) that will identify your car as needing the reflash or not. There will not be any letters sent out.

More than likely...Yes. I would assume the latest build cars already have the update. Only way to tell is to have the dealer pull the CID# off the ECM and see what "version" it is.

It's a tried-n-true method of reducing start-up emissions, it's just more expensive than the cheap pre-cat method. Think of it as a more expensive, but a better result for the engine.

Not true, the pre-cat helps the system heat up more quickly by restricting exhaust flow, this helps reduce the amount of time the car is dumping out "cold-start" emissions that are usually 30-40x the amount released during normal "warmed-up driving. The '06 models of the WRX & Forester XT no longer have a catted up-pipe, they use a second air injection pump to help reduce cold start emissions.

Nope, it's a specific reflash to address the two fault codes listed only.

I can get mine to do it "sometimes", but it's very rare, and not easily reproduced. I haven't started the procedure to get mine flashed yet because I've been driving the wife's car due to the rain and construction on my commute, but I will do it soon.

I noticed that as well, but I think it's a typo...because none of the turbo models get the 4EAT and it is definitly a Turbo car reflash (I can tell be the ECM CID's)

I got the e-mail from our District Service Manager, it is likely that not all dealership are as informed as others. See more info posted above

There is no TSB as of yet, but the Tech Line is aware of the issue and the reflash. Here's a little more info I drummed up on ECM (Electronic Control Module)Reflashes: Also found a few TCM (Transmission Control Module) Reflashes:

P2097 is an ECU Diagnostic Trouble Code, the description for this code is: "P2097 - Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Too Rich Bank 1" The reflash is to fix either problem, you don't have to have the CEL light to get the reflash.