moral hazard

Are you hearing pinging/pre-ignition/knock? It could be carbon built up causing hot spots etc. Run UEC ? Have you got the option to run even higher grade fuel ? Another option is get a tune for the car to enrich AFR and pull timing if needed. Maybe see the dealer and ask if there is an update to the ecu from Subaru released via TSB for your car related to ping. Check outback and WRX forums for similar cases with the FB25, could find other ideas that way.

I've ordered a generic turbine speed hall effect sensor to solder in personally. Got what appears to be the same as the generic one mentioned here : https://www.sb9t.com/threads/a-fix-for-p1710-transmission-fault-code.4324/ If I had to change the valve body also, I'd probably try one of these 'performance' ones : https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/264297996810 Would much rather go manual though, but the change of finding a reasonably priced 6 speed and getting custom mounts for it sorted seems like quite a barrier. For now I shift via the paddles and that seems to avoid the bang.

I've got a genuine tactrix , but if that ever fails I'm buying one for 1/10 of the price on AliExpress https://m.aliexpress.com/wholesale/tactrix-cable.html

So I've made a booking to get the electronic parking brake recall done next month, I suspect it's best to do that first before going through the effort of this conversion.

I imagine this would go further if you remove your fog light. Personally I have removed mine, as I just have a pod filter in the guard without any box.

Doesn't seem like a bad idea, when you feel the need for more power not only can you move onto your twin scroll kit, but also maybe upgrade to the ej257 STI exhaust cams with the extra lift. Stock cams would likely hold you back from going any larger than the 18g anyway based on this info: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/5th-gen-gt-power-roadblocks-and-solutions-259192.html

Thanks to Brunzo I no longer have errors flashing at me. Very nice. However it seems that SI drive is strange, before changing anything on the EEPROM, SI drive didn't work but it was showing a flashing I mode on the cluster. Now after the modification, there is no flashing I. I think the issue was the new cluster not talking to my old SI drive switch correctly. Maybe if I reinstalled my wrx steering wheel with SI drive on the wheel, it could be better. Unsure at this stage. Probably won't bother with SI drive as I will continue working to port Merpmod to this ecu and use the map switching features from that patch. Also curious how to determine which bits to change in the EEPROM for each feature of the cluster.

Both the new and old cluster dumps sent to Brunzo for review. Both came from Australian cars I believe. The 2010 cluster had no eyesight, but it does have SI drive. The new color cluster had come from an eyesight car which apparently didn't have SI drive.

The first Subaru I bought was a 2008 2.5i with a slight headgasket leak, I decided to ask the local dealer for some coolant conditioner (out of curiosity, not expecting it to do much for me), the parts guy did not know what it was. After further explanation, it was found to not be in stock and unable to be ordered. Several years later I ended up working at another Subaru dealer, again no mention of using this stuff in the service department. I'm in Australia, it gets hot here. Surely if the coolant conditioner was anything truely helpful, we'd see widespread use here.

Took me a while to solder wires onto board near the s93c76 chip (this newer cluster has a smaller chip and I was unable to use a sop8 clip). Here are the first 4 lines on the new cluster: A2 93 E2 A5 F8 EE AF 09 39 22 FF FF FF FF 07 03 F3 02 0A 60 FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF 00 9B 9F 22 D0 94 83 00 1E B1 D0 07 E0 2E F0 55 49 60 6A 8B 0F 02 34 0B 56 14 C1 16 58 CD BF 9B 93 03 @Brunzo could you please advise what needs to be changed in order to disable eyesight and enable SI drive? Cheers

Since there's no mention of you changing the intake, the MAF scaling should not be thrown off and that would make an etune easier I believe. I see no reason why the etune with a slightly rich map and lower timing + lower wastegate duty would cause any drama getting you safely to a dyno. My understanding is that would be very feasible. Particularly if you try to stay in closed loop as much as possible on your trip.

Asprogrammer seems to have worked. I've read the chip for the 2010 LGT. Now I have to pull the newest cluster from my car and read that one. Would love to have eyesight disabled and SI drive re-enabled soon. The first 4 lines from the old cluster: 37 4B 4B AF AF 13 13 23 23 FF FF FF FF 05 05 05 05 E1 E1 FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF FF 36 36 69 69 1F 1F 00 00 7B 7B 0F 0F 6D 6D BB BB CA CA 36 36 03 03 18 18 29 29 2D 2D 96 96 37 37 0A 0A

Sounds like they want to have the option to reach out to Cobb if they have trouble with the tune. Open source requires not only tuning knowledge, but also a deeper understanding of the ecu logic and likely takes more troubleshooting + time. Do you have the option of letting the shop do the install and then decide on the tuner later ? Simply asking for mechanical work to be completed shouldn't need you to commit to one specific ecu or tuner etc.

Confirmed one oil lines for the remote oil filter came loose (or I didn't tighten it well in the first instance). Staying with the banjo bolt that came out of the MGT2259s. Noticed a nipple broke off my 3port bcs, replaced that. Also installed an MTXD ethanol sensor and gauge. Merpmod 2011 sti rom flashed onto ecu (with blending based on left TGV input) and ready for further testing tomorrow.

If getting a hood scoop, consider getting a reverse cowl type of scoop to avoid pumping your engine bay with air and having that air pressure exit under the car causing lift. I've gone with a front mount for my GT, definitely wouldn't mind a reverse cowl myself.

Oil feed banjo bolts have a different sized hole, VF54 has the smaller hole...or so I thought? Also, during my test drives I found I do have a slight leak at the header. This is after reusing MLS gaskets when installing the header. Will order fresh gaskets. Last night the car dropped 2L of oil on the road, unsure if due to oil feed issues or maybe my oil filter relocation. Once towed home I will check. At least the car is in one piece. Previously I installed a nice CBE. Everything was going to plan until yesterday.

2. Find a good used driveshaft, probably source one for $100 from someone who maybe did a trans upgrade etc. Worth looking around. 3. I can't see any possible way that a drive shaft swap would effect alignment. People do complete transmission, driveshaft and diff upgrades without any mention of doing an alignment.

Decided to try and pull the data from the original EEPROM (93C76), it seems that my favourite software (flashrom) doesn't support this chip. What software are you guys using to pull the data? Is the process here the best way to go? https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/immobilizer-reverse-engineering-2005-obxt-probably-other-year-models.501753/ Or is it better to use ponyprog, and if so what hardware?

Correct me if I'm wrong, but Subaru doesn't sell the genuine sensor. Only option is a generic sensor and solder it in.

If anyone is looking at this in the future, recently discovered the innovate kit that is $200 USD and the included gauge performs the conversion of the signal to the required range: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2905386

Wouldn't have expected such a drastic drop in fuel economy, if you put the intermediate pipe back to stock configuration is the issue resolved? I'd be worried that you have another problem like a faulty injector dumping fuel to have that much of a loss in fuel economy. Sure if you go with a free flowing exhaust on an NA motor you could lose low end torque and that would be detrimental to fuel economy, but I can't imagine it would be as much of a loss as you see here going from 18 to 8 mpg.

Got what I believe is a good deal on a mislabelled invidia N1 catback exhaust: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Subaru-Liberty-2010-Turbo-Catback-STI-exhaust/174730602482

I've done the headgaskets myself on this car, it was my second attempt at this on a Subaru having only ever performed work on my car based off YouTube videos. I'd say go for it, if you have a second car to use while you get this done. If this is your main form of transport, probably worth paying to get the job done efficiently and get you back on the road. Definitely agree there's a fair bit that needs to come off during the process just to get the engine out. Once you have the engine out, there quality YouTube vids covering the process of taking the heads off and then reinstalling everything back onto the short block. I followed this in order to remove the engine : https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/engine-pull-walk-thru-errr-talk-thru-258809.html?t=258809 The first time I changed headgaskets on a Subaru (4th gen) I made 2 crucial mistakes, doing it with the engine in the car on a SOHC EJ and not getting the heads machined flat by a professional machine shop. That time I ended up failing. On the 5th gen I took my sweet time to do it right, had a machine shop resurface the heads. Upgrade to sti exhaust cams for the extra 1mm lift while I had the heads out. Set all the valve clearances using buckets from some donor engines I had in the garage (bought cheap from a recycler ). It took me quite a few weekends because I kept finding parts I wanted to change while the engine was out (hoses, gaskets, seals etc). Worth mentioning the cost in getting an engine crane and a calibrated torque wrench etc can add up if you don't already have them on hand.

I'm about to attempt to put together a kit via these instructions: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2810122 And run a free Merp mod patch not intended for our cars to get the flex fuel going. Definitely took a lot of reading etc. Hope to post more details when done, but basically picking up from where I left of earlier with running an STI rom on the legacy. https://www.romraider.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=14020 Specifically going to run the 2011STi rom (AE5IB00V) . This rom is better suited for manual cars, mines a 5eat which means there's more tinkering required. In Australia the gen V GT had a 5eat option which is what I have to work with. This route is way more time consuming compared to just going with Cobb, but I enjoy tinkering.

Anyone happen to have a link to these ? I'd be keen for the non-US type.