moral hazard

If I didn't already have aftermarket 4 pots , I would have gone for this option: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/cadillac-brembo-adapter-100-shipped-until-theyre-gone-267993.html I think that solution achieves a bigger diameter rotor than the normal Subaru brembos, while being much better value.

Sorry just saw this post, yes what you say here is correct. I simply changed a few values in the sti AE5IB00V rom to allow cross flashing to that rom via ecuflash. It is goal of mine to learn enough to eventually figure out how to actually port the patch to any rom, but right now I can't do that sort of thing. If only someone like Merp or andea79 from the romraider forums would record their screen and upload to YouTube whenever they do this kind of work so that others could follow those steps etc.

That makes sense, I'll have to stop being lazy and attempt to read the EEPROM. Hoping it's supported by flashrom because that's something I'm familiar with (from BIOS flashing).

Might be the turbo heat-shield under the car.

Any updates to this thread? Ever since I put the 2014 cluster in my 2012, I believe I lost the ability to change the SI drive mode (which is feel is even more important than having the eyesight errors). Wondering if anyone else noticed the SI drive issue.

Wanted to see what 20x9 would look like, although they are not light I still prefer the look.

The vertical version looks great and it's nice these are Android so the torque app would work, ideal to have the gauges up on the screen. I personally cant justify it for my car as it gets very minimal use over winter only.

What does it do? My mirror has zero buttons on it, I'm feeling left out.

Picked up some CF eyelids on eBay.

I'd say watch YouTube on how to rebuild the head. While you're in there maybe you can fit some of the sodium filled exhaust valves (probably can order on partsouq).

And the tension on the belt is correct? I thought I had a power steering issue, but after adjusting belt tension it's been perfect for years.

Ok so a quick update, I ended up going with the staggered step turbine seal from AliExpress. Fit just as well as the seal that came out of the turbo. Other than that, I completely removed the original Westgate actuator mounting bracket from the compressor housing so it wouldn't foul on anything. Currently using a bent piece of steel as a makeshift mount but I don't think it's ideal in the long term. The oil filter relocation kit was very good quality and that's all installed now. Ended up mounting it where the airbox used to be. Started the car today and it seems to run fine , however I don't have any exhaust fitted yet after the J-pipe. Thats my last step before I can drive the car again. If I do end up changing the turbo again later, I'll be going external wastegate at that stage. For now I'm keen to see what I can hit with the mgt2259s and E85, considering there is some speculation here that the stock mgt2259s flows ~50 lb/min: https://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=45936349&postcount=9

It didn't trigger a CEL for me. The stalling was really annoying though, I stalled taking off at the traffic lights (5EAT gearbox in my car, not manual) and the person behind me drove right into me without looking. Took a week to get the car back from the repair shop.

Id look for a vacuum leak. I once had a small vacuum line come loose on the intake plenum and I was randomly stalling until I found it.

It took quite a while (months) before my bang shifts eventuated in seeing the error code and limp mode. I simply clear the code and continue on at this stage.

I agree with KiwiBR9, my 2010 GT 5eat has the issue and eventually it did throw the turbine speed sensor error (which is a hall effect sensor). I'll keep driving until it gets worse and attempt to change the sensor myself (sadly requires dropping the valve body ). A common issue with the tribeca also, so be sure to check for that error code discussion on those sites as well if you want more detail.

I believe that's the difference between an etune/romraider and a live tune. Agree that multiple revisions are expected from any tuner if not going in person for a live tune (and then I believe you're looking at at minimum purchasing the Cobb accessport or aftermarket ecu that supports live tuning or ram tuning).

That's a good point, will keep looking for other external wastegate options.

As an alternative to the killerb header or adapter, I am Currently tempted to get this fa20 (vband) header: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/133580742630?ul_noapp=true And the following adapter's to run an external 38mm wastegate along with a cheap eBay gt30 as a test: https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32711300940.html https://m.aliexpress.com/item/4001143891033.html However at the moment I'm still waiting on my staggered turbine seal to arrive and then looking at the nearest shop that can balance my mgt2259s with its new comp and turbine wheels.

Not sure if you've seen this old thread: https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/5th-gen-gt-power-roadblocks-and-solutions-259192.html Depending on budget and availability, E85 + sti exhaust cams and maybe then look at the turbo. The 7cm2 turbine housing appears to be limiting. Personally I did the cams when my headgaskets failed. Still needed to push the E85 tune further but haven't yet figured out the turbo (likely getting what I have balanced soon). Would be nice to hear from others because I agree that power delivery is not that exciting on this platform.

It's an electronic throttle. The tuner needs to play with the calculated torque and requested torque tables to truly open the throttle 100% ( I believe from memory). For a better understanding, read all of this thread: https://www.romraider.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=9358 Anyway for the purpose of tuning, I would just provide the tuner with your logs and explain you had your foot flat to the floor. The tuner should do the rest.

Directly above that pool of oil is where the crankcase breather hoses terminate. When I took my turbo off my suby it looked the same. If it is an issue, I must have had the same one? Not sure as I don't plan to reuse the turbo for my build either way (when I eventually get the car back together).

Would have thought oil collecting there is expected if not using a catch can?

Interesting to see they also have a used full turbo kit for sale: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-Legacy-BM9-EFR7163-full-turbokit/264818253005?hash=item3da865dccd:g:jzQAAOSwvedfKEVg

Can't say I've experienced this with my high mileage 2010 GT, but I did have to replace both on a ford Barra engine. Ended up using Chinese eBay versions, so far so good (this is not a recommendation).