chato

worth a quick look for metal shavings in the oil. if there is metal it would be confirmation of rod knock vs tensioner knock.

I'd walk away from any subaru with a "knock" regardless of source.

yup ^ or a sand rail, or a brat, they'd be an easier install than a NA.

I'd look into a compression and leakdown test if it hasn't been done. Would be good to check codes and also helpful if you can log a pull or two just to make sure everything is healthy.

I did mine solo but with a cherry picker holding from the top and transmission jack below.

have you tried an impact wrench?

So close to 25,000 posts Max

unfortunately, I don't have a good pic handy and I'm not in the same location as the car is at the moment. I have the "wagolis" cans with the oval tips, they're tucked an inch or two in the USDM bumper but not an issue visually or otherwise. worth noting that the regular "legalis" cans only mount to the fujitsubo midpipe for that system but the wagolis cans bolt to other stock location midpipes.

cobb down, HKS mid, fujitsubo cans here. no issues

can confirm, my tuner said the cobb intake wouldn't run out of room on my 440xt and told me to get the KS tech 73mm.

there's a pretty inexpensive single din out there that replaces the little box in the dash

I did it on 4 heavy duty stands backed up by two jacks, but didn't love the feeling of being under that. Max- was that a full removal or just a pullback for clutch? While it *is* possible to take off a transmission without removing the DP but its way easier with it off, not just to remove the transmission, but also to access one of the trans bolts which is tucked behind the DP. so for 8 bolts removed on the DP you get a lot of headache and time saved IMHO. You can also check on your turbo health as a bonus.

I took off the downpipe as well

should be same as regular 5mt

also did one of the JDM 5 speeds it was identical to the US 5MT

yeah, did a 6mt about a year ago. definitely, definitely replace the clutch. good fluid, there's plenty of opinions on which. check the condition of your clutch master and hose inspect boots on CV's before you get it apart get new seals for the CV outputs consider doing the group N mount pb blast things the night before

not sure how any of us would have known what your shop did for your last engine swap, but glad you figured it out.

Next diagnostic I would do would be to test the plug at the seats w/ a multimeter to verify power is getting to the seat. Not uncommon for the heating elements in the seat to fail, so that's a possibility. Although unlikely, but not impossible, for it to be out on both seats.

Pretty sure lack of US spec headlights and 5 mph impact bumpers eliminates any claims of similarity.

I’ve never had a bad O2 trip a CEL

you can buy and store as a track car, but the 25 year rule is in play for road legal unless you want to buy a few of them and crash test a couple of them

just repeating what I've heard from several tuners and what has been said on here a bunch of times. high RPM/high boost misfire could kill an engine, I'll stick with the factory parts that worked for 150k miles over saving $100

+1 on coil packs, I had the same thing. replace them all with factory parts.

missing a 10mm wrench?

4eat and 6mt are specified as the same length I swear the 4eat seemed short when I installed it with my 6mt swap, but haven't had any issues.