chato

aside from the cost of the filter, is there some other issues with it I am missing?

interesting, wish I had realized there was another filter in that housing assembly the two times I've had it out. Also wish it wasn't $75 to replace.

I don't know why you would delete the filter at the pump. Its basically a fine mesh screen, and don't think it impacts fuel delivery other than protecting your pump from ingesting grit (which there definitely was in my fuel pump housing). But if you REALLY want to delete it, you can just take the screen off the pump. And, at one point I actually installed a basic metal canister in-line fuel filter in the fuel delivery line, partly because I didn't like the fact that there wasn't a "real" filter before the injectors and also to provide some pulse dampening to the fuel circuit. I took it out about 6 months later because it was getting so hot that you couldn't touch after cruising on the highway. No sense in super heating the gas before it hits the rail. IMHO.

recaro, duh. http://www.northamericanmotoring.com/forums/attachments/f56-hatch-talk-2014/95971d1405091133-my-thunder-grey-f56-cooper-s-the-project-thread-young-sport_ebony-z.jpg just kidding I don't have kids, so I have no idea. but if I did...

you guys aren't special, I've got it on a 5mt.

what turbo you running?

a small exhaust leak can sound like a whistle.

Been chasing phantom knock for like a year. Turned out to be a bad fuel pump or o-ring in the fuel pump assembly. Upgraded pump and got my first clean learning view ever. Just wanted to throw that out there since I hadn't seen fuel pump as a cause for knock before until now.

Got the stickers in the mail, thanks Dave!

magnetize the tool tray, and then put a metal strip on the snorkel.

in for stickers. info sent.

Just finished my e-tune. Feels like a new car compared to OTS stage 2. Couldn't be happier. Dave is super responsive and clearly really good at what he does. Best money I have spent on my car, no question.

In my extensive searching on the issues of false knock, there have been instances where suspension noise was triggering it, usually bad swaybar endlinks. my turbo heat shield was on tight but was actually touching the bellhousing which was causing some vibrations. Best way I found to check is to have someone else rev the car while you check all around for rattles and other out of place noises. Focus on things attached to the engine. as for removing the knock sensor, it was kind of a pain, it's below the throttle body. I couldn't get a socket in there so I ended up just removing the TB to take it off and inspect. I did find some random crap sitting on top of the engine while I was at it. Nothing to really see on the knock sensor unless it's cracked or improperly torqued.

the perrin and clones are a LOT bigger (internally) than stock. Almost double the size IIRC, but mostly in height. I have the IPR, and the stock splitter covers everything but the last row, and like dga, it stays pretty darn cool, even in stop and go, despite the metal on metal at the turbo.

my bet is separate since this will fit multiple cars with different splitter designs. current sti one is sold separately too.

my next improvement to the starter will be replacing the main power wire, the PO trimmed it and it has a fair amount of corrosion inside the cable. think this really slows the starter's performance a bit. also, as a general update, I haven't had a single problem with the starter sticking or weird noises since pulling it apart.

great idea.

Thanks for the basemap Dave, got it all loaded up. Will get you some logs later today or first thing tomorrow.

can't wait to see all the "other brand" TMICs for sale in the classifieds once this hits the market.

definitely part of my upcoming power-rebuild.

yup, lithium isn't going to last as long as a heavy duty synthetic grease.

I know man, I've read a bunch about your issues in other threads. I don't have a recent one. I wish I had screen capped the one from yesterday showed -11 degrees and -5 degrees in the first two cells of 1800-2600 rpm row and more pulled in the 2600-3400 1-1.5 load cell. everything else is clean.

Would someone with a little more experience looking at logs mind taking a look at this and let me know if you have any ideas or have seen something like this before? I've been chasing this ghost knock for months and read dozens of threads about this, tried just about everything. Unfortunately, few of those threads offer resolutions. Its all low load knock events, at or below 3k rpm, usually coming on or off the throttle, WOT pulls are 100% clean. I've chased down every rattle in the car, pulled and inspected the knock sensor, tried different fuel, inspected and cleaned all grounds, intake setup is tight, A/F Correction is within a few % in all ranges. Map is a Cobb OTS stage II, mods are gutted up, catted DP, IPR topmount, perrin inlet, Turbosmart BPV. Plugs are under a year old. thanks knock log 1-28.csv

heh, yes, better than dialectic for sure.

dielectric probably won't hold up as well over the long term since it is meant for insulating electrical components and not necessarily as a friction lubricant. I've personally found that it gums up over time in dryer climates (guess that depends on what part of TX you're in). the second time you take out the starter it goes much more quickly.