DeltaNu1142

I think you'll be OK. My problem was trying to use a Spec.B shifter with an STi lockout cable. Incidentally, I think I picked up some rubbing on the way into work in lower gears. I'm going to have to get under the car again tonight...

I read it and exchanged emails with Cobb before I tackled it. I just didn't have the manual handy when I did it... and your wicked long link doesn't work.

Well... after I posted, I struggled with this for a while. Too many zip ties too tight will bind the cable & the lockout won't work. You really have to balance security with function, I guess. I ended up using one zip tie just forward of the bend in front of the shift lever cup. All of the slack in the cable is forward of that, and it's pretty tight behind that, where it's most likely to hit the driveshaft where it exits the shifter. I would have taken a photo, but I was under the car four or five times trying to get it right, and when I did, I didn't want to go back. Don't let it rub too long! Or just stay out of 5th. My 5 miles was in-town driving 1 through 4, and it caused scoring on the DS and damage to the cable. At higher speeds, it's probably going to be worse.

Last night I installed a Spec.B reverse lockout cable on the 2010 STi transmission in my '09 LGT so it would work with my Cobb Spec.B adjustable STS. I can confirm that the Spec.B cable is definitely a couple of inches longer than the STi cable. I drove for about 5 miles & heard some rubbing noise from the cable on the driveshaft... the cable needs to be longer, but the STS positions the cable lower than on the stock shifter, so there's a lot of slack. The damage surprised me... a clean ring around the driveshaft where the paint scraped off, and a chunk of plastic gone from the cable housing. No good, but no need to replace anything. I hung it up with two zip ties & will try it out today.

I've heard it called bolt flex... as in those holding the case together. Either way, it doesn't much matter to me what the cause of the problem was. My 5MT input bearing was toast after less than 45,000 miles.

I posted a link some pages back which will send you to a calculator for this. Too lazy to dig it up on Tapatalk, though.

I'm using the originals, and I have no problems. My transmission is a low-mileage 2010. I don't know at what age/mileage it would be a good idea to change them, though.

OK, so I received my Spec.B lockout cable today that I ordered to replace the broken cable from the 2010 transmission. I have a sneaking suspicion that the cables between the STi and the Spec.B 6MT are different based on the amount of exposed cable; the new Spec.B one looks longer. Also, it didn't look like the Spec.B Cobb STS had a chance at fitting with the STi cable. It could all be in the adjuster, I don't know yet. I'll know more maybe next weekend when I have time to change it out: http://i.imgur.com/xerFbzQ.jpg?1

I will, if I can find one. I got it for a song.

I have the Spec B Cobb STS on my 2010 STi tranny, and I wish I had the STi. The main difference I can see is the upper shaft. The STi boot is fixed to the shifter differently.

Right--the Cobb website has some insight into this. I had to order a couple of machined bushings for my Cobb STS to fit.

Yep. I'll have to adjust up a bit. It might even make sense to switch back over to Bils with Spec B tophats... round & round we go...

I run BC BR coilovers, set low, but not too low, IMO (see vBGallery link in my sig, last photo)... I noticed yesterday while changing my oil that after the swap, my front end sits a little lower. My bumper cover dragged slightly on the ramps while driving up on them, and I've tapped my midpipe muffler on a couple speedbumps that were never an issue before. YMMV.

While removing the reverse lockout pin from the stock STi shifter, I broke the nipple off the end of the cable. I've ordered the part number from the first post, hoping that cable mates up to the 2010 STi tranny. After I fix that to the Cobb shifter & then repair my electrics (iPhone charger plug & reverse camera button are both under the shifter trim), then, I'll be done with this, knock on wood...

So... I have the car back. Seems good. The most noticeable difference between cruising with the 5MT and with the 6MT is the HOWL from the 5MT is gone. I didn't realize how bad it was until I got ride of it. I'm hearing a bit of a "crunch" in the front on uneven bumps. Over speed bumps where both wheels hit simultaneously, it's as solid as ever. I'll get under the car next week when I change the oil. I can't tell if what I'm hearing is OK, but it's actually not loud at all, so I'm going to let it ride for awhile.

It has to be engine revs/mile. I don't have the time to do the math, but you could give it a try on my numbers above.

...well... for MY interest, I've found these in the ROM: http://i.imgur.com/YGNa4nS.png ...but I haven't found the rev/mile parameter yet.

Not sure--but couldn't you modify a speed sensor multiplier in the ECU using ROM Raider to run whatever size tires you want without screwing with the speedo? EDIT: I'm looking through my hex file & I'm not finding much. I'm curious what's going to happen when I log gear position with a 6-speed mounted in a car with a 5-speed ECU

The speed comes from the wheels, not from the transmission, so the only thing that's going to impact your speedo/odo is your tire size.

Thanks, I'll be talking to the shop after school. He might have said they found a Legacy knuckle... I've lost track. Will post either way.

WRX knuckle installed. They say it's solid, but I'm leaving it for a day so they can make sure before I go pick up. I'm in class all day tomorrow anyway. EDIT: I'm just correcting this because of SBT's info posted below... the shop used a Legacy knuckle, not a WRX. I don't want this to lead to misinformation down the road.

Are you sure you're not thinking about STi knuckles? Ehh, it's a photo with pretty poor contrast. Live, it doesn't look bad. And as far as upgrades... I just want to get it solid with stock parts at the moment.

OK--they found a problem, although based on the sequence of events I'm not sure it's the problem: http://i.imgur.com/Fqq8IqD.jpg This is the front passenger-side knuckle. They couldn't find the noise so they just started pulling things apart. When moving the control arm around, they found that the cup in which the ball joint sits was moving... so, it was loose. They put an impact wrench on it, and snap. Cracked it. They offered to weld it, but I said eff-that. They're getting a new knuckle & installing tomorrow. Did it have a hairline crack before which left the cup loose? Who knows. Now, is that the cause of the noise? I don't know. They replaced the ball joints already, meaning they had the opportunity to loosen that bolt on their own. So... I guess I'll find out tomorrow. In the meantime, what year WRX knuckles are the same as LGT knuckles? I assume there's a wide range of years that match.

Do not know. They haven't been overly communicative, which is a pet peeve of mine. I'm headed there in about 20 minutes to see what they've done. What was the last time I posted... three hours ago? I've taken out & put back in both sways and end links in that amount of time. Of course... I probably have more practice than they do.

I dunno. Update as of this morning, they have no ideas what's making the noise. They're going to pull the FSB & go for a ride. I've been running that bar & end links for at least 6 months without problems, so I don't know how a new transmission would cause the FSB to start knocking.