rao

You just need to wrestle it out. All the penetrating oil in the world will not do anything. Try raising/lowering the tail of the transmission. People use ratcheting tie down straps and all sorts of other methods, but it is time to get medieval and pull the transmission off. Getting it back on is just as much fun

An actual confirmed sighting

The question is how did he get to part there???

Dark Blue GT with dark tints parked at the Lisle Lanes Saturday evening for Eyes To the Sky.

My car does as well, I guess we both should get a cookie I did not have the infamous stutter; I was talking about the transition constantly into OL. I don't know why you would want the car to run in OL at all times other than cruise or decellaration.

Not according to this article: http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=64936 which just proves that it is impossible to get definitive answers to some of these questions.

You should see it now

The original thread RC posted discusses why I made the switch away from 0. Boxer - I offered to help

I wouldn't (and don't) use 0 delay. IIRC I have mine all set at 100.

The Air knows it is about to be "rammed home" so to speak so it starts moving even while idling

It's like a supercharger on top of a turbocharger.

I took all of them out - too scary; I pulled the other sensors as well

Forgive me, but when I said that the heater needs to be powered I meant that the sensor has to be functioning; you will damage it in a few hours if you leave it in place and not "hooked up" If you mount your sensor in an improper location you will have problems; that applies to almost every part on the car.

What is with you folks The sensor used in the widebands is OEM in a bunch of cars and it is not replaced every week. It is fine to leave it in so long as the heater is powered.

Not in mine

The metric thing did throw me off If it were my car I would figure out what was happening and fix it.

Why not try a log in 4th gear from the beginning? That will tell you quickly if it is the shift that is causing the problem.

That's sounds about right Something is very wrong, that much we know for sure. Have you altered the dynamic advance table? Note that the Dynamic advance is falling through 3rd gear, maybe you should test your thermocouple The most obvious cause is that the charge is being heated too much.

How's that math go?

Those logs are in metric units with bar for relative pressure? Whatever is going on there is a real problem - negative dynamic advance is NEVER a good ting, your car must feel like it falls on its face. It would be good to see actual timing.

Why didn't you say so It would be nice to see the date from that thermocouple. The open source tuning people are funny - Street Tuner works perfectly fine and it logs just fine too Now on to your problem. I would check your OL delay. I would bet that it is set too high so that after you shift you are going back into closed loop and because the delay is too long, real knock is occurring. Don't set it too short or it will cause other problems. I used 100 across the board and that has worked out fine. I posted about this a while back. Even though no one listens to me you might find this useful http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43450

How do you know what the intercooler outlet temperature is when you are in 4th gear?

The air that comes out of the turbo after being compressed is not quite as cool, that's what the intercooler is there to deal with. Also, only logging during ideal conditions is a great way to end up with a map that doesn't work very well. Your load is being calculated differently than the rest of us - it does not take a very large turbo to get calculated loads over 3.

Is the negative dynamic advance occurring during the shift when the throttle is closed or after you shift into 4th and open the throttle again?

He needs the right side (passenger's side, turbo side).