DrD123

Man - if I could have bought another new 12 LGT, I almost certainly would have - really enjoyed that car! Going to miss the manual. That's for sure - not a great way to prep for the holidays, either. I think the sport is going to be a pretty fun car once it's broken in - funny thing about Cobb - I poked at them to see if they would be supporting the FA24T in the Legacy/Outback/Ascent and whomever has been responding to me about the topic is pretty oblivious about the fact that the FA24T is even a thing in other vehicles - first said they don't tune NA vehicles (even though I pointed out it was a turbocharged vehicle, but used a different physical turbo than the wrx... then they were asking if I had a Legacy with a custom FA20 setup... I gave up, explained one more time, then referred them to www.subaru.com for more info. I wouldn't be in the market until I am out of the powertrain warranty (basically what I did with my 12 LGT), so maybe some day...

I wouldn't think an imbalance at the plug level would cause an issue for resistance, but perhaps it does! Will be interesting to see what happens when you swap out all 4! (the rear one on the drivers side is the annoying one when it comes to fishing out the coil pack)

Wish you were closer! I'd be all over these if you were in NM!

Yup - I have found that subaruoutback.org is a much more active site nowadays - certainly plenty of Outbacks with the same engine (FA24T) - it's actually much more active for the 10-14 as well, so I have been going there for some time now!

So first question with NGK plugs is where did you get them - there are lots of counterfeit ones around. Second - if you put the original plugs back in, does the problem go away? If the coil packs are installed correctly (I'd remove and plug them back in - I unplugged mine before removing each coilpack to get it out of the way, and to apply a little silicone dielectric grease inside the boot before reinstalling) and nothing else changed, I'd suspect the plugs as being the issue - particularly if you swap the old ones in and they work fine.

Not much activity here - looks like as the 5th gen forum died down, this one never really took off! Anyone out there? Just picked up a 24 Legacy Sport with the 2.4T - curious about a few things!

Well - few weeks ago got nailed by someone trying to make a u-turn from the right lane across the left lane where I was driving – the hit was square on the passenger side front corner - caught the impact beam a little, but most of the damage was on the outside of the frame rail - damage estimate was pretty high at over $10k when they seemed to have stopped counting (or at least when I was looking at the car, there were things broken that were not in that initial estimate). Insurance deemed it a total loss, which sucks. I really loved this car - bought it new to replace my old bugeye WRX (which I also purchased new) and been tweaking it here and there for the past 12 years. It was immaculate inside and pretty great outside, too. Only 89k miles on the clock (I basically drive it to and from work - for other stuff, we tend to take our van). Not pleased when looking for a new vehicle - no manual at all for the legacy, and I couldn't sell myself or the wife on the WRX (rear is too small for our needs, and I really don't like cladding... at all... not even a little…) - not a fan of screens high on the dash, so ruled out the Camry/Accord, and decided to stick with a Legacy. Trim levels are weird – the sport is now what it should be with the 2.4T engine. Drove one the other day - really nice ride - very comfortable - the 2.4T seems to be a solid engine, and the car seemed very stable. Don't have the time to order something this time around, so it’s not the exact color I want, but c'est la vie. (couldn't find much looking as far as Houston or Las Vegas or up through Colorado). I have never been a huge fan of leather seats, so I was glad I didn't have to go to a touring XT to get the engine I wanted. About the only things the touring has that I would want are the butt coolers and the power folding mirrors... Took the new car home today. It was very sad going to the body shop and pulling off parts/replacing them with stock before it got hauled away by the insurance company - unfortunately, my favorite upgrade (the Koni's) will go to the grave with the car (one was damaged, anyway) - most of the rest came with me. I’m pretty bummed I'll be driving an automatic now. I’ve been driving a standard for nearly 40 years! There are a crapload more safety features in newer vehicles which I imagine will take some getting used to, as well as so much stuff being controlled via a screen instead of physical buttons. One thing to be aware of - as a relatively rare car, there are basically no comparables for them to draw from when estimating the value of a 5th gen 2.5GT - I saw a few on cars.com with way more mileage and from 10-11, so not of much use. Was able to negotiate them up a bunch with some other similar vehicles on dealer lots around here and on carmax, but less than what I thought it was worth – probably better than private party value, though. (they have rules on what they can/can't use for comparables - probably varies from company to company) I’ll likely have a for-sale thread soon with stuff that’s shippable (custom gauge pod, defi boost gauge, emergency brake relocation kit, etc.)

https://www.legacygt.com/topic/70820-parts-from-other-modelsyears-that-fit-our-5th-gen/

Well - went with the Zevo lights for the sidemarkers - they look great. I put the resistors sort of under where the tail light is (there's a flat spot there - worked really well) Unfortunately, on the way into work this morning, someone opted to try and make a u-turn from the right lane, across the left lane where I was - impact was the front right corner on my car, and the front left wheel on the other car (lifted Jeep with giant wheels) - missed the frame rail, so I am hopeful it's repairable (the headlight blew apart into an amazing number of pieces, though). No injuries, so that's what matters - not a fun thing to have happen on the way into work. Sucks.

No - I got the red ones (for the triton v6) - the 7443 halogen bulbs I was using are clear - I think just putting a red LED of some sort (or a red halogen) will get the color to look more similar. The resistors just arrived today - do you recall where you mounted yours? I got a 12" extension just in case I couldn't find something close to the tail light.

no - the red lights that are on the trunk adjacent to the combination lights (they are just lit as markers - some folks have done modifications to make them into brake lights as well) - what I am likely going to do is try a few different red LEDs and see if I can get one close to the VLEDs in the combination lights (I already had LEDs for the turn signal and reverse lights in the combination light) - I have some generics off amazon for the license plate bulbs (and the other locations that use a 194 bulb around the car) I pulled the vleds for now until the resistors come in (probably this weekend) as the warning lights are annoying!

that's fair - just don't want to spend more than I need to! As an added bonus, I thought the triton v6 wouldn't require a load resistor (since they don't indicate it needs one) but apparently it does - after 5-10 minutes of driving, I get the VDC light coming on, along with the flashing brake light. Restart and it goes away, but comes back after a similar amount of driving. ugh. going to order their vrl6 resistors which should solve the problem, I suppose.

So I upgraded my brake lights to VLEDS triton V6 7443 bulbs (really nice!) - now, since the lights on the trunk lid are using clear 7443 bulbs they look kinda orange by comparison, does anyone have a recommendation for an LED that would look similar to the normal output of the triton v6 bulbs (vleds says 25 lumens) - maybe the Sylvania Zevo red LEDs? I don't want to get something that's brighter (and didn't want to spend another $100 on them...)

Will be curious to hear how the forward/back stops impact shifter feel - for the main shift stop, make sure you get the X-PSP-INR-019 - that one is flat vs. the -018 which is ramped - the Legacy shifter will ride up and over the -018 (found that out the hard way!)

Glad to hear it's back on the road! How many miles on the old motor mounts?

MSRP for the two cats from Subaru is right about $3k and about $2.5k online (one of the cats has two versions - not sure which one you need, but they are a couple hundred more) - if the dealer is replacing both with oem at around $3k then that's a good price. Aftermarket on Rockauto for the pair is $800-1000 depending on which two you need. Aftermarket definitely have a poor reputation in general, but I am sure there are decent ones out there. The catalyst is the expensive part, so perhaps these have a smaller surface area/less catalyst or are using a standard geometry and they can get the cost down by economy of scale (use the same one for everything in pipes that fit each car) - they all are going to use a precious metal catalyst - that's sort of a requirement...

you need to watch the seller, etc. to be sure. Just buy direct from Koni-US if you are concerned.

they are on Amazon, direct from Koni US, etc.

What is the OEM one that is failing doing? Have you opened it up and checked the solder joints for cracking, crud buildup on the switches, etc.? Might as well try to fix it before biting the bullet on a new OEM one!

is the pitch stop mount the front motor mount? We don't have a pitch stop like say the WRX does (above the transmission, rearward of the engine)

The 2010 WRX rims are 5x100 - the WRX didn't go to 5x114.3 until 2015. The STi is 5x100 for 2004, but 5x114.3 for all other years. You can get adapters to convert from 5x100 to 5x114.3 (spacers) - you do not want to re-drill rims.

With USDM cars, the 13-14 springs are definitely stiffer and a worthwhile upgrade. For struts there are some options to tighten things up - lots of us have gone with Koni's (the cut-a-strut for the fronts and shocks for the rears). Larger swaybars also help. (I have the 13 springs all around, Koni adjustables for struts, a 26mm front and 19mm rear swaybar and am pretty happy with the car as a daily driver. Outback components would probably work, but I think you need more than just struts and springs - looks like maybe the front swaybar, front/rear endlinks, and rear upper control arms? could be some other stuff, too.

did you get the regular one or the STi short shifter one?

No - the redstuff is their high performance, low dust pad for street use (they recommend for cars >200bhp) - the combination street and track pads are the yellow and blue ones (they indicate the red are not for track use) - they also have a few pad lines that they indicate are for "full track" - I had them years back on my WRX and really liked them so figured why not.