DrD123

on parts.subaru.com it looks like the old one was 160mm and the new one is 150mm, so there's your half inch or so... just get a universal j-bolt and call it a day. Napa sells a 6.75" one, and I'm sure other stores do as well. Might be a different nut/thread pitch than the OEM one, but it will get the job done. If you have a die set, get whatever length you want, cut it to 6.5" and add however many threads you need and you'll be good to go!

Well - the side effects are your immune system doing it's job in response to the injection - with a really effective vaccine like the mRNA vaccines, I think it's like telling your immune system - holy crap, it's time to go to war! I get regular sick very, very rarely - been sort of wondering if the strength of the response has more to do with the aggressiveness with which your immune system responds... though maybe you are onto something with the placebos... Edit - On a more serious note - looking at the data, systemic reactions show up in around 80% of the folks for Moderna, perhaps less than that for Pfizer (data isn't broken down the same way, so can't tell), and around 60% for J&J

CDC data shows the Moderna as having a higher incidence of side effects, with both showing a lower incidence on the first and a higher on the booster dose - here's the data there for Pfizer: https://www.cdc.gov/vaccines/covid-19/info-by-product/pfizer/reactogenicity.html?CDC_AA_refVal=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.cdc.gov%2Fvaccines%2Fcovid-19%2Finfo-by-manufacturer%2Fpfizer%2Freactogenicity.html Moderna: https://www.cdc.gov/vaccines/covid-19/info-by-product/moderna/reactogenicity.html J&J: https://www.cdc.gov/vaccines/covid-19/info-by-product/janssen/reactogenicity.html Got my booster dose on Friday morning (Moderna) - first dose was not bad (injection site pain, muscle fatigue for a few days) - booster dose was worse (was not in a happy place on day 2 - injection site pain, fever, muscle aches/pain, etc. - very little sleep... day 3 is less bad - still very little sleep, less severe aches/pain, fever is pretty much gone...

Surprised to hear the tie rod ends are frozen on a florida car! Moog has a decent reputation as mentioned above. So will you just remove the outer from the knuckle then undo the inner from the rack and take the whole mess off at once? If the outer ball joint is in good shape, and the outer tie rod and locknut don't look like a rusty mess, I'd hit them with some penetrant, let it sit, and see if I could get them free - same with the rear arms - hit the nut with penetrant and see if you can get it to break free (record the position of the bolt before you start messing with it, and return it to the position it was in)

I wonder if it's an aftermarket remote start? where is the harness (I am assuming that's drivers side, under the dash)

Well, Konis are great, but it's not a simple install (you need to either get donor struts and cut them to install the Koni dampers or pull yours and do it, or find a shop that will do it for you) - I believe there is a Cusco option someone posted about. Not sure what other aftermarket options there are for the 5th gen. If you go for OEM-like, then the 13-14 KYB struts that have been suggested are a good option. It depends on what your goal is performance-wise. if you just want it firm things up a bit, 13-14 springs and struts, along with the swaybars will be pretty transformational on how the car rides.

30A is substantial for an add-on thing... what do the wires splice into? The thing taped in place looks to just be a fuse holder - what does the other part look like? Have you tried pulling the fuse to see if anything stops working? If you can locate the harness and wires it ties into, you can chase down what they are for on the wiring diagram. There's probably a tap for power and ground, but could be any number of other things. If it were my car, I'd pull the fuse and see what happens. If nothing, I'd keep it pulled.

I recently put a set on my car - if you get the laminx covers, get the generic 3.75 inch ones - they fit perfectly over the lens. Here's mine with the Lamin-x installed on and off the car, as well as the old, sandblasted OEM ones. Pattern is fine - they are fogs, so it's a fog light pattern (see GTeasers pics above)

Keep in mind a brand new hood latch (p/n 57310AJ001) is only $46 msrp

First thing to do is go through the engine compartment and under dash fuse boxes and make sure the fuses are all good (use a multimeter or a test light connected to battery negative) I'm not sure which fuses you are checking - if you go to the general chat forum, then go to the vacation pictures thread in the stickies, find what you need for your vehicle and look for a common thread. Could be a relay (tail and illumination relay, maybe) or a ground. When you say the lights are out, confirm the bulbs are good (as in pull the bulb and give it battery voltage and verify it works) and make sure they aren't just really dim (which would suggest something like a short to ground somewhere or something like that)

Might want to consider replacing the strut bearings/tophats up front. for subaru part numbers, check parts.subaru.com and for the KYB stuff, just go on rockauto. Depending on how ugly they look, you might want to replace the hardware up front (upper and lower pinch bolts/nuts for the strut

I thought all of the MTs were using a GL5 rated 75w90 gear oil - did they drop down to 75w80 for the WRX? (answered my question with a quick search - apparently they did with Subaru Extra MT which is a 75W80)

which year/engine?

A spun bearing isn't going to squeal - also, there are other things that can sound similar to rod knock that aren't (timing belt tensioner being the primary example) - definitely have it checked if you don't know what to look for. If you drain the oil and there are metal bits in it, then you can be pretty certain it's a spun bearing. (when it's really bad, it makes a characteristic tok-tok-tok sort of sound - go on youtube and there are a bunch of videos) - how many miles on the engine? is this a GT?

Does it provide any information on your receipt on what they installed/updated, such as a software version or a TSB number or anything like that? Did they mention finding anything loose, disconnected, or plugged?

Picked up a set of 2015-2017 Ford Mustang LED fog lights (take-offs, apparently - said they had 40 miles on them, and they look pristine, so I believe it!) - decided I wanted more LED lights... and my OEM fogs look sad (dirty on the inside again) - for those not familiar, this is something GTeaser figured out a while back https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/oem-ford-led-fog-lights-267980.html?t=267980 Also found out that if you turn the ignition to on while the oil is out (was testing said foglights), then the low oil light gets set (the yellow one) - if this happens to you, I have heard it will go out after 10 miles driving, but a thread on here said it did not go out with driving, so you need to use the PDI fuse to reset it (put the PDI fuse back in place, turn the ignition to on (don't start the car), wait for the light to go out, then turn the key to off, put the PDI fuse back, and you are good to go. (the PDI fuse is in the upper right corner of the engine fuse box - it has paint on it - you move it from the recessed location to the raised location in the right corner, then back when you are done)

at 150k miles, I'd replace the top hats. If you go with KYB, the 13/14 should be firmer, so I'd go with them. For Koni's, I did what's in the previous post

Going to be quite some time before I am a candidate as well. The new "single shot" vaccines are likely to get EUA soon, but I'm going to hold out for one of the mRNA ones (Pfizer and Moderna) as they appear to have a stronger immune response to the virus - looks like there could be issues with the soon to be out ones with the covid varients that are rearing their ugly head, but still better than no vaccine, so we'll see what's available when my time comes up, I guess....

Anyone get one of the vaccines yet? They are doing group 1a and 1b here, now.

cars.com has a few 2010 LGT Limiteds with fewer miles ranging from 11-13k. Mods are a bit of a wildcard...

I can hear the turbo when building boost, but that's not necessarily tied to engine rpm, and is more of a whooshing sound than a whine... do you have a boost gauge? I don't have a metal skid plate on mine, so no idea if that changes the sound. Are you running something other than stock for the turboback?

What don't you like, or would you like to be different? No real options for power modifications, but there are things for handing, braking, etc.

So it looks like you pulled/broke the wire off where the pin is crimped onto it - to save this one, you need to get the pin out, then open up the crimp, strip back the wire a little, and recrimp it in place. For the connector, as Scubaboo pointed out, some are easy to work with, some are very difficult - many require a tool to release the tab holding the pin in place. Which motor is that to? (front-back? recline?) - in your picture, I am guessing the white piece is the lock to hold the pins in place - maybe try seeing if that pulls out. If that comes out, then see if you can pull back the connection that's already in place - if it comes out, then snap it back in, and with tweezers or a pick, pull out the pin that's broken off. See if you can open up the crimp, or even solder the wire onto it (if you can do the latter without making it so it can't fit in the hole), snap it back into place, replace the lock, and theoretically, you're good to go. If you can't get it apart, then if you can go to a parts yard that has a 2010-2014 Legacy or Outback with power seats, go and get the harness from that - just cut it 6-8 inches back from the connector, and take the pigtail - then you can use that connector to replace what you have here (either cut the wires and solder the pigtail on, or just salvage the one pin and some wire from it and solder that into place.)

A picture would really help. A broken wire can usually be repaired - no idea which wire or which motor you damaged. (it won't move front-back, up/down, recline, or won't do anything at all?)