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gimpydingo

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Posts posted by gimpydingo

  1. Over thinking it. You can pressure test through the inlet and also the smaller line coming off the BPV. Some people recommend capping the vac lines off the inlet, but you are wanting to see if any of those are leaking as well, so I wouldn't bother. I've found my leaky intake manifold gaskets using this method.
  2. The preassembled won't have enough pressure to push through the system. I have one and it just has enough of a "fan" or whatever to get the smoke out of the front and fill a room. You need at least a couple of psi to get into the system. No home depot or lowes or similar around you?

     

    I got a paint can for a few $$, hose/tip kit for my air compressor $6 and some epoxy $4. It will take maybe 20 - 30 min to make, just need to plan it out and make 2 holes (I did one on each side of the can, one low, one high) add the hose, epoxy and screw into the compressor.

  3. Many types of fuel can be used in a smoker as long as they are natural and uncontaminated with harmful substances. These fuels include hessian, burlap, pine needles, corrugated cardboard, paper egg cartons, and rotten or punky wood. Some beekeeping supply sources also sell commercial fuels like pulped paper and compressed cotton.

     

    The fuel in the smoker's burner smoulders slowly because there is only a small amount of oxygen inside, until a squeeze of the bellows provides a blast of fresh air. In this way the fuel is used more sparingly than in an open pan, and one load of fuel may last for several hours, or even days (if it is extinguished and rekindled again later). To calm the bees, the smoke must not be hot.

     

     

    Burlap was the most common that I have heard of. Might be a good material for our smoke testers. I was using cotton shirt with mineral oil, works so-so.

  4. I actually built one a few years back, but at the time couldn't figure out how to cap the PCV system lines to keep from presurizing the block. I tried it at low pressure and it never held anything, but didn't hear a leak ether.

     

     

     

    Pulled the service manual and you're right, that dosnt look too bad at all! I'll order one and replace it when I put in the new TB hose.

     

    No I haven't replaced those gaskets, are they a common failure point even if you've never taken the manifold off?

     

     

     

    Maybe I just need to find a shop with a smoke tester at this point :spin:

     

     

    Let's not give up so easy. :) Especially being stage 2 you really need to monitor and fix these issues.

     

    Before I bought this "project" car I only ever changed fluids in a car. Now I'm replacing gaskets, lines, fluids, axles, etc... just from the help on this forum.

     

    I don't bother plugging the lines and have found numerous leaks. Dont' go crazy with the pressure and you'll be fine. I found my TGV was leaking where the senor is on the 05/06 (blocked on 07+) from a smoke tester I made, only needed a few PSI to get it to leak. I'd say use your boost tester again, get a spray bottle with soapy water and hit all the main leaky spots with that, then pressure the system. 5 - 10 PSI shouldn't hurt anything.

     

    You could do the cheap test method. Plug up the intake with your boost tester or a pint paint can, pull the smaller line off the BPV/BOV and blow into with lung power. See if you can hear any leaks or if it holds pressure.

     

    The TGV gaskets are a weak point, the older ones are smaller and get very hard, so they allow leaks at cold temps/idle.

     

    http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/diy-rough-idle-cold-start-cold-temps-lgt-07-09-155325.html

     

    The intake manifold will take some time to get up to replace the gaskets. I followed that thread and used gasket picks to get everything situated. Now people say taking the TGV and Manifold in one piece is the easiest way to get that off, so that can be another option.

  5. Car is ideling at +8% fueling and not hitting target boost so I was trying to trace leaks and ran into some odd issues. First I couldn’t get the carb cleaner trick to work. Even spraying carb cleaner straight into the intake the car didn’t seem to respond. But I was able to use oil blowby residue to find some boost leaks.

     

    Throttle body to intercooler hose has an obvious leak, lots of oil spray in that area. There was also a lot of oil spray on the BACK of the throttle body though. How common is it for that throttle to manifold gasket to fail? Looks like a pain to get it so don’t want to remove it unnecessary.

     

    There was also a lot of oil spray residue around the turbo side of the turbo inlet tube. That shouldn’t ever be pressurized and I couldn’t find any visible holes in the pipe. What would cause oil spray in that area?

     

    I've never got the carb cleaner trick to work. Just make a DIY boost leak tester - it's like $5 - $8 in parts from home depot.

     

    A few things. Have you replaced your Intake Manifold to TGV gaskets?

    The gasket in the throttlebody is very easy to replace. Need to remove intercooler and you can see and easily access the bolts that hold the TB. Just remove the 2 or 3 bolt, pull it open and put in the new gasket.

     

    The tubo inlet gets oily after many miles. I had to replace mine (hole under the clamp) around 60k miles or so.

  6. I called a local shop and they quoted me around $260 for a drain and fill and $280 if I don't have a drain plug and they have to take the pan off. Clearly its cheaper to do it myself but my question is, do i have a drain plug or just a pan? If I have a drain plug, do I need a special tool to get it off? Obviously I have never done a ATF change but I have changed the engine oil plenty but is it as easy as that? Drain, new filter, add fluid all done?

     

    Also, how much ATF can I expect to come out?

     

    Sorry for the noob questions. I don't want to screw this up

     

    89 posts, seller and been on here a few years. Shouldn't be a noob any more. :)

     

    Might want to add your car info.

     

    4 - 5 quarts should come out.

     

    You should have a drain plug. It's pretty easy to change. Check the dipstick first to make sure you are full. Drain the old fluid, make sure to catch the old ATF in a container with measurements (that way you know how much to put back in). Put plug back in and fill up the tranny fluid with the same amount that came out (make sure it's not the diff you are pouring it into). You'll probably want a nice LONG funnel to get down to the fill hole. Drive it a bit, check the level, top off if needed.

     

    Don't bother with the filter, supposed to be lifetime.

  7. http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160304/3021a0108debd5e1712bda1af8a24bf9.jpg

     

    Sad, I see this every day, but usually car store parts, Walmart spinners, or if they are lucky there were able to steal a more expensive set.

  8. I realize now you were not the same person I was talking to, initially. I think they changed the grabby 1st gear brake on the 07+ or 08+

     

    Sorry didn't mean to bust into your conversation. I kinda figured as I always see something new/different between the 05/06 and the 07+ every time I read through various posts.

  9. Nope. Just people tweaking requested torque and claiming magic while selling tunes. We're way past the point where there is enough money in this for anyone to care. Not gonna happen.

     

    That's what I figured as this thread would be hopping if it was truly cracked wide open. I should have some of the interns I am hiring to crack this for us as a project to get hired LOL

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