gimpydingo

Which line is which? You know....for future reference to help other members.

You know...that would have been the smart thing to do. Photos and all that.

Remembering looking up I tried the drivers side line first, but ended up being the passenger side I believe. It would be line 45520D*B in the image.

I also found my old post asking about the ATF filter in this car. I did drain/fill the ATF between 15k - 20k and changed the diff fluids. So not as long as I thought and just about the right interval.

I found which line and go everything drained/filled. Good to go. Thanks everyone.

Mods we can lock or burn this thread now.

learn to read, I told you twice what to do, maybe in your haste you missed that?

 

1. Drain and fill, drive a few miles, repeat 2x

 

what in the world is wrong with people that wonder why their stuff breaks when they are hard on it...you better hope that fluid change solves it otherwise you are in for a nice fat repair bill.

You are right what is wrong with people as you keep responding. I dont get what the issue is.

I know about drain and fill, that wasn't what I was asking. All I wanted was to find ATF cooler return hose. That was all. Stupid me for not thinking hard enough if commuting to work was considered severe driving, right!?

by all means go a head I couldn't care less. I will remind you of what you said in your very first post

 

 

 

So....by your own admission you are hard on your car, please take a moment to read your owner's manual and see what it says about severe service. I'll give you a hint for Subaru it is halved IE 60K becomes 30K for trans service. what is severe service? Frequent quick acceleration, stop go traffic, extreme temps, dusty environments, etc. so at 55K you are nearly double the severe service change point.

 

and I gave you the solution to your problem:

This is now the second of my threads that you have added nothing to the conversation. Did you answer my original question? Nope. You might as well just pop in to post #YNANSB.

beats trans, never change fluid according to severe service... now trans acting funny.

 

change fluid, drive a few miles, repeat 2x more.

Wish there was a way to block you, so helpful. Did I say I beat in the trans? I was commuting over mountains roads 45 miles 1 way, not exactly the easiest on a car. Odd shifting can also be chalked up to it being a 5eat and change in driving habits. The fact the car is only driven on surface streets less than 20 miles a day now could also have something g to do with it. I see people on here baby their cars and they still act up.

I have around 55k miles, driven farily hard. I know people recommend drain and fill, but I want to get as much out as possible in one shot.

I am following this DIY to flush my 5EAT - https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/diy-5eat-atf-flush-197248.html

I am trying to figure out which is the ATF cooler return hose?

Irrelevant as that is agaisnt established procedures. Grow a pair and tell them to fix it

I don't know why you are telling me to grow a pair. I've already taken it back and it's getting fixed. All I was saying is if this doesn't fix it I will take whatever steps I need to get them to fix it.

Thanks everyone for the input it's been very helpful. Just trying to get as much ammo as possible.

Tell them to stop screwing around and fix the car... the first thing they should have done is scan for codes.

The insurance company told them not to. Turns out they have to. So I have a major beef with them and will be switching companies. If this isn't fix lawyer coming while I work with Subaru. But hoping this fixes the issue and can move on.

I found it weird to. Thanks gives me another leg.

I think I found the problem.

Is that the OCV or the Camshaft sensor? I think I replaced the OCV's a while ago, can't remember where they were at.

No scan prior to the work being done as the insurance didn't want to pay for it.

I spoke to Subaru already and they will cover most if not all of the diagnostics and take it from there. I cleared the codes and I got the car home. CEL did pop up on the drive. Looks like camshaft is a perm code.

Since the insurance didn't do a scan I at least have that as leverage and Subby willing to assist.

I'll be looking at the car today to see if I can spot any issues.

Did the body shop do a prescan before repairs? If so, get a copy of it. It will help you prove related vrs not related to the accident. I would reset the system by disconnecting the negative battery terminal for 30 minutes. If the codes are immediately reset or pending, you have an issue.

 

If you do - Bank 1 is the (USDM) passenger side head if I'm not mistaken. Same side as the damage. As stated above check all the grounds, also check all the harness plugs all along the main harness.

 

If there is nothing obvious get it to Subaru for a diagnosis

Prescan prior to repairs. Thank you as I didn't think of that. I figured the bank 1 would be on the passenger side.

Thank you everyone!

My guess would be the battery, so disconnect it, make sure it's fully charged and then try again since disconnecting the battery would clear the codes.

 

 

But have them check that the grounding straps between engine and chassis are in place too, it's one of those things that can be missed when in a shop and that can give a cascade of codes among other things.

Thanks. I don't remember how old the battery is now and if I had replaced at some point. I have a charger/conditioner so I'll use that.

I was planning on checking everything myself once I picked up the car. Grounding strap, thank for that to check. I guess I should check the solenoid connections as well.

I have RR and another scanning app that I'll use to double check.

If I can't figure it out I'll call Subby Corp and have them help with inspection and other costs.

:mad::mad:

My 2013 Legacy 3.6 was involved in a minor accident. My front passenger hit the rear drivers side of another vehicle. Some body damage, headlight, panel, strut was replaced, the rim was reconditioned. I just got an email from the body shop saying their are several codes on the car, which were not present prior to the repairs, even driving the car home from the accident and to the body shop.

They are saying there is a history code, OCV Solenoid Signal "A" Circuit. Also Camshaft Position Actuator Control Circuit Low Bank 1 and ECM failure.

I've been told they spoke with the insurance company and I would have to have the car inspected by a mechanic to see if it's related.

Thoughts on this? Possible battery issue or something more?? :spin::spin:

Short answer NO.

There are a couple of build threads around you can look up. After all the time and money you MIGHT be as quick as a stock LGT.

I also have a '13 3.6 5EAT and an '07 LGT 5EAT. Turbo + 5EAT is more clunky than 3.6 + 5EAT. Not to say I don't have my fair share of quirks with the 3.6. My wife and I typically drive it in "manual" mode with stability control off and I drive the car hard. I'll get a odd shift in auto mode from 2nd to 1st on occasion.

I can get that thing hauling with a smooth push to WOT and manual shifting, much more so than just leaving in auto and mashing the gas.

Me too. Matt over at Import Image was very helpful. After I pulled the invidia UP I realized how much bigger the opening was in compared to the stock manifold. I could see an outline of a ring where the stock gasket was just slightly offset so yeah of course it leaked between that and the flange not 100% matching up.

I have 100k miles on the car, so if I have to replace the GS flex in 50k miles or so no big loss. Just....want....it....sealed...

Also we are down to 1 car that my wife commutes in. 3.6 is in the body shop and LGT up on jacks. wha wha whaaaaaaaaa

Yeah I've done it both ways. Finger tight mani, line up with UP, finger tighten UP, tighten mani then UP fully.

I've also done as you and strong armed it into place and force bolt through.

It sounds good and runs perfect, but if I soap up the flange its leak city. Rest of the gaskets are solid.

Seems the GS uppipe is a bit cheaper than OEM and still had the flex. Might go that route.

If the UP isn't bolted to the manifold, the UP flange is off by 1/2 in from manifold flange.

Since you've removed yours several times without issues I have to assume there is something wrong with my pipe.