gimpydingo

I found if I let it idle for 10-20 seconds (it idles 1200 to 1500 RPM), just to get the fluids moving, then blip the throttle and let the RPM drop (mine goes to 700ish), gear engagement is barely noticeable.

Same here, always a blip to lower the rpms. When it's cold out, taking it out of P to R is a bit stiff, other than that smooth shifting.

Though it can shift on it's own (in sport mode) from 2nd to 3rd around 4k if I hammer on the gas. Has always done it since I've owned the car.

What I meant was an aftermarket replacement boot kit.

 

They can be found for less than $15 per boot.

I think a few pages back someone used the Rock Auto with no issues.

I think I'm going with that:

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=860589&cc=1433582

EDIT:

Nah, going going for the full axle. $50 shipped can't be beat. SURTRACK SB8047 (SB-8047)

holy cow. I went back a few pages and checked and I purchased the 28397AG000 part from my local parts counter and only paid $35. I guess I should take a 6 pack of beer the next time I go since he doesn't seem to be raping me for parts prices.

Seems 28397AG000 is only $30 while 28397AG00B is $70 looks to be the same part.

Cool, looks like Rock Auto has it for $40 + $9 shipping.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=3855753&cc=1433582

Says does not include ABS ring. I don't think any of the Subby axles come with it any way or am I wrong?

I thought about rebuilding mine, but the parts counter wanted 27$ for grease per boot. Then almost 20$ a boot and 4-5$ for each of the band clamps. It was cheaper to just buy a brand new one with a lifetime warranty.

What exactly did you end up buying?

^ This is one of the reasons I do like certain OEM parts.

The OEM boot kit seems to be around $70 for part: 28397AG00B

I do see Rock Auto for around $15

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=3865884&jnid=4&jpid=0

Would it be a good idea to get another retaining clip/ring for the green cup as well?

Exactly what I did. Just be careful putting it in, you can damage the seal on the transmission when taking the axle out/putting it in.

Any tips on that?

Not sure what you guys have against the reman axles, I've had an autozone one in my car for almost 3 years and 55,000 miles. Zero problems and a lot less hassle than re-booting your stock axles. For less than the cost of all the stuff in Gimpydingo's post you can have a reman axle from autozone and have money left over to buy the 32mm socket.

Becuz OEM....

But seriously, thanks I'll go this route. Looks like the right one. I'll get the part and bring in the core after install.

http://www.autozone.com/drivetrain/cv-axle/duralast-reman-cv-axle/subaru/legacy-awd/2007/4-cylinders-2-5l-mfi-turbo-dohc/26123_706373_0_78655/

Finally getting around to replacing my boot on my 07. Have not driven that much on it since it's been leaking. Any suggestions on where to buy the parts. Here are the avg prices I've found using the list provided here and referencing OF.

28395AG04A Grease Package $28.82 - will get another brand.

28323AG010 Boot Ptj82 $24.96

23242GA400 Band Axle Boot $1.52 $5.21

23242GA410 Band Axle Sft Boot $1.49 $5.21

28335AG00A Snap Ring $3.81 $4.55

28333AG000 Cir Ring $5.48

Total $74.23

Think of a double-boiler... put the injectors in a small beaker-type glass jar, and fill that with the cleaning liquid. Place the glass jar in the center of the bath area and surround it with regular water so the machine can do its magic. The sound waves still work to clean whatever you put in the glass jar, you save $ by using less cleaning agent, and your ultrasonic doesn't come into contact with any funky chemicals.

Now that is a great idea!

Phantom ESC spool up time from idle to max RPM ~ 500ms now.

That's for the latest revision of the TQ250 24-28V model (the one used in the FT86/BRZ/FRS v2.0 kits)

 

A 4kW brush-less motor with sealed ceramic bearings, supporting up to ~ 400CFMs and building up to 5psi MAP.

 

There is also a larger TQ300 model in R&D right now, which would be needed for something such as the H6 3.6R or any NA engine outputting >240-250BHP.

The key requirement here is the 'air-pump's' flow characteristics and air appetite, displacement is irrelevant.

 

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2075844&postcount=8125

http://www.phantomsuperchargers.com/fts-tq25024v.html

Wow you don't have a clue what you are talking about. You can buy a 50k rpm brushless motor for RC cars that will put down from 3-5 hp and they have gotten bigger and faster since I was last involved in the hobby. The technology has been out for years it's just a matter of getting the designs worked out and hammering away at reliability for this type of application.

All good, I can admit when I am wrong, I digress. Everything I have seen in the past just equated to a hair dryer/bilge pump/leaf blower being hooked up to your car showing the same or negative gains.

Phantom does seem to be producing a viable product. Wondering how OPs will compare.

Electric motors can spool insanely fast, I think you'd be surprised.

I know small electric motors spin fast, but the larger the blades it's trying to spin the longer it will take to get the momentum, but again probably still a lot faster than the turbo would spin (read: spool).

Nothing wrong with an electric turbo.....

 

future tech will have lots of cars with an electric one to eliminate lag while the exhaust driven one spools.

 

http://www.roadandtrack.com/motorsports/news/a6295/audi-r18-lmp1-tech-details/

 

http://roa.h-cdn.co/assets/cm/14/47/1024x576/546b2658b23fc_-_1r18lmp1-lg.jpg

And this makes more sense to reduce or eliminate the lag.

I'm going to skip all this bs and go full electric. The Mercedes AMG SLS that was shown on Top Gear was pretty insane, equivalent of 700 hp and AWD!

I think "spool" is the correct term. LOL!

spin, spool, wtfever. <---- I guess he's not spooling...

YOu can't do this either. I test first by connecting a hair drier with large electric inverter under the hood connect to the batter with large-gauge cables. This is the only way to power 1.8kW hair dryer for the intake. Results were not as good as I expect. I saw increase in boost but I think the hot air makes a problem for the intake. This is my stage3 but I will look at OP's solution instead.

That's why I put the hair dryer on cold. Stage 4 hair dryer mod.

The other thing is the instant power. It's still a turbine and if the claims of 50k RPMs is true, that would take a bit to spin up.

$600 scam right here. Insane price. You could get the same effect hooking up a hair dryer...

I would never attached this to my car. You should do some basic research first, which isn't hard to see it's a fraud.

If this was viable, don't you think all the 2.5i's on this site would have done this before.

No tune needed either? How does the engine know how to control the a/f with the "added" air flow?

No way this thing is going to add 50 - 75hp/tq.

I like the comments about this too. You can FEEL the power...oh don't mind the fact I got new headers and new exhaust and tuned and e85....but must be the Phantom. I like the name Phantom as well, as you get a boost of Phantom power, powered by a butt dyno.

I believe it's just '05-'06 for LGTs.

That's what I've thought, since all the threads are for 05-06, and I've searched quite a bit for the 07. Thanks!

STICKY!

Thanks for this, as I've had to look through the forums for the various locations of possible vac leaks, and now here is it is in one location!

I'll be emailing you shortly as well.

Typical dumb question. I know about the blue T, but does the 07+ have this blue T? I have looked for it in the past and have not located this. I see the TB and the zip tie on the back of the manifold, in that pic, so I know where the location should be.

Thanks for the cudo's, just got done sending you a message.

 

On that note I just got done sending out a ton of email revisions, base maps, responses and such from chile to Canada to New Zealand and Europe. oh and obviously a bunch in the good ol US!

 

Thanks for the business, you guys are awesome.

 

Dave

Thanks for the assistance and putting up with my BS haha. Got the msg. I removed and re-seated the IC and TB hose, hopefully should clean up the issues. Thanks again, I'll be in touch.

Big thanks to Dave, he's been very patience with me. His tune is great! I've had some vac leaks popping up, which he could tell right away from the LV. TB hose was loose and the lip on it was warped. Also the dreaded turbo inlet had the hole in it. Spent a good 3 hours replacing that last night. Car is so much better. Time to log some more to make sure I've got it all under check.

Thanks Dave, highly recommend you and your amazing customer service!! I'll be back once I check all the maintenance stuff again and get the DP going.

Oh and my turbo is looking great, no shaft play, no bent fins, no hitting the housing. I'm at almost 85k!

:rolleyes:Not everyone runs Tunes from Mike @ T/A:cool:

only 6300 ? The wagon see's 7000 every few day's. With the cold temps and wet/snow covered pavement, it gets there quickly in 1st gear.

 

You need a better MAP.

Cryo etune.

Didn't realize we had the ability to remove the limit on the red line. I'd be happy hitting 6500.

80k on mine. Front passenger axle replaced (well both), O2 sensor blow to sh!t and replaced, MAF replaced. Brake pads/rotors next. Other that it's been good!

Personally I "hammer down" it shifts at 6300 RPMs

Meant to post days ago, life and work (mainly work) got in the way.

Stage 1 tune on my 07 LGT, all stock.

Xmas is over and it was great!

Dave did great work. He was very patient with me as I was trying to find (and had been for a while) a vac leak. After doing everything I could, finally took to the dealer and they replaced the O2 sensor I destroyed along with the MAF. Fixed the issue.

We went through 5 1/2 revision to get this done. Corrected some knock and got some nice power gains. As many people have said the car feels more like it should have off the lot. More throttle response on the low end and once I get past 1500-2000 RPM's the car tears off.

Very happy with it. And the wife is loving it as well. I think I'm bad when I drive the car, but she can make that thing drink gas like nobodies business.

Thanks DAVE!

Next steps: suspension, sway bar, beefier brakes/rotors, exhaust, then on to a DP, TMIC and Stage 2 tune.

07 5EAT(obviously) - when in "manual" S or S# while accelerating from 2nd to 3rd or 3rd to 4th and flooring it to merge on the freeway once I hit around 4500+RPMs the car will shift up. This happens 60% of the time. If I ease into the throttle it seems to lessen the issue, though you can't always just ease into it for merging and such. It seems more frequent in S# mode.

Previously I thought it was losing power as the RPM's jumped from 4500+ to 2500ish. I've been watching and it automatically shifts.

If I leave it in auto mode there is no issue. And no I'm not going to just leave it in auto mode.

Any ideas?