compsurge

It takes some force to get them down.

For bigger strut housings. You don't need them.

Swag list grows! When are you going to put a 35r on the table

those are some wicked awesome casting marks. You should nickname the car Draco. LOL

I made my own adjuster for the rear (wagon) using the white Koni adjuster and the black protector cap from a strut. Below are instructions accompanied by photos. 1st: Use a small screwdriver to pry out the insert from the white adjustment knob 2nd: Use a drill/drill press to put a rough hole the size of the insert tab into the black shipping protector cap. Use a hobby knife to cut out the remaining plastic. NOTE: I used a paint marker to transfer the shape of the semicircle and trimmed the black plastic to this template. 3rd: Press fit the insert into the protector cap 4th: Use electrical tape and wrap the black piece to the adjuster knob

Maybe I should apply to work on the Subaru assembly line.

^^ It was for the stock strut, so I didn't care. Hand on the shaft worked amazingly well, tbh; I noticed no shaft spinning.

Figured it out. Use hand on strut shaft (move the dust boot and bump stop down from the top) and use the 17mm socket on top.

What's the best way to get the strut nut off (the nut with with captive hex rod inside the top hat)

when I asked for geo metro, I got M12x1.25. It is even on advance auto website as such. Anyway the new studs are in and now I have a sheet of hdpe to cut.

wheel stud for 3/8" spacer is M10x1.25x29mm. You can get them at NAPA

There's probably nothing wrong with it. My guess is the level was off by the amount that came out. The trans dipstick is somewhat hard to read and probably has a lot of variance with the amount of fluid.

Trans fluid does leak out if the hole is not plugged or raised. It's not going to come gushing out, but will leak a little bit. I don't think 1/3 a quart though. Maybe 1/3 a cup.

Doesn't matter where it's made, only the process quality control.

You can get the replacement part at Advance Auto After DIY this project, I will choose to rebuild an axle over buying a new one next time (if that ever happens). It was that easy.

Thanks to this writeup, I now have a new Beck/Arnley cv boot kit from Advance Auto installed on my ride. Saved me $340. I don't count tools as an expense BTW, if you are in a bind, you can use duct tape successfully. I packed mine with grease and changed out the duct tape every couple days and it survived about 500 miles with ample original grease packed with the bearings.

What were the other cylinders at with the 95 psi test result?

Zero boost? Have you inspected the turbo? That's a big indicator that it is dead.

Did you change your plugs yet?

I think you did a good diagnosis. Hope for the best on the leakdown test

I'll add this to my other comments: How's your turbo inlet and intake manifold gaskets? Check the TB-intercooler hose too.

Also a cause for those with unsolved misfires: BPV http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/my-misfire-issues-resolved-faulty-blow-off-valve-long-post-177822.html?p=3704414#post3704414

Has it been leakdown tested or compression tested? Is the timing correct?

Removal of injectors is very simple. Be sure to use safety glasses and have shop rag to absorb fuel from around the injector if the car has been operated recently. They are held in place with a retaining flange that bolts to the fuel rail. I believe it is a torx bit. Take great care when removing them, as they may strip easily if using a standard driver - a small impact wrench or driver might do this better. Swap the [injector] with another one and also inspect the screen for clogging. I noticed when I pulled mine I had a few specks of material on them. I took the filter screen off and carefully removed the material.

FWIW I had "good plug" that was actually bad. It was easy to miss if you weren't looking for it. It doesn't take as much time as you'd think to take out the plugs once you get around to doing it.