dgoodhue

Thanks again everyone with the replies,

 

I am in the process of getting into contact with Subaru.

 

I got my car back and it feels great with the new transmission.

 

Unfortunately I noticed on my invoice that the technician damaged 2 ball joints and they also replaced them while the car was being worked on. I immediately noticed that I seem to have lost some power steering.

 

Is it possible that the power steering was damaged while the transmission was being worked on? I do not know know much about cars and am not sure if the two are related.

To remove the transmission, you have to disconnect the front axles. The ball joints were likely damaged while removing them. The power steering could have been damage while replacing the transmission. It is very tight under where the engine/transmission connects and the power steering rack is under that connection. I would check the power steering fluid level and check for power steering leaks. (The power steering uses ATF)

Also check the main bearings in the strut top hats. I had my front ones separate around the bearing and it caused very audible clunking.

The rear mounts do not have bearings. I would make sure the rear top hat bolt in the trunk are tight. Maybe it did not sit sit right when tighten or they forgot.

I had a truck that I bough used where the rear suspension had a clunk, I went to replace the rear shocks and found the person (likely mechanic) who replaced the shock previously had forgotten to tight the top 2 bolts. The shock bolts were rusted like it has been installed like that for 5+ years, apparently either no one complained or they couldn't figure it out. Simple fix for what likely very annoying for any driving the car.

I didnt even know this was a Subaru. It looks like 100 generic sedans.

Show some respect. The guy just spent $35k+ on a new car. You quote the picture of his car and insulted his car. If you don’t have any nice to say about his then don’t say it. Insulting new owners is not exactly welcoming to this forum which already has very little activity as it is.

Car is still down. 1st replacement engine nearly completed its transplant, and then they discovered bad valve seals. Shop contacted the supplier, and they're supposed to be sending a 2nd engine, but that was nearly 3 weeks ago, unsure what the hold up is now. Waiting for a response back from the shop.

 

I don't think I'm ok.

How many miles were on the replacement 3.6R? Valve seals can go bad from sitting for long periods.

You are probably not OK, but that probably fits most of us....

Ok so I'm really lost right know and am in need of someone to guide me in the right direction please!! So I bought a 2011 forester with a fb 25 motor had it for a month engine crapped out on me cause it threw a rod I'm limited on funds so I couldn't get the same motor so I found a 2011 subaru legacy with a ej 25 sohc so I grabbed it threw it in and all it does is crank and the harness that it came with is the one I used so the main plugs only the gray one is plugged in it didn't have the brown one is that my problem? It's my family's only mode of transportation so I got it all done in 2 days and never done a subaru motor and really don't no to much about them if there's any guidance someone can give I would greatly appreciate it

They may look similar but FB and EJ are different motors. Different, size bore, stroke, timing chain vs Timing belt. Your best bet is get a FB25 and sell the EJ25. One issue that you are going to run into is that the early 2011-2014 FB25 were oil burners. (A good chance is that your Fb25 ran low on oil, which is which it threw a rod.)

I googled S4 STI and came up with a WRX S4 STI Sport #, which is WRX with STI parts or it could be a WRX S4 tS STI. tS is usually trim and springs. Either way both of those combinations had the CVT with the FA20DIT motor used in the WRX.

As already mentioned about the 2.5i has CVT transmission with a lower torque rating than the WRX/FXT/Ascent/OBXT/LXT with the HTCVT. The tuners have already found that they are having issue with the HTCVT in those with simple mods. The 2.5i will fare worse with its CVT.

I know that the 2015 WRX has the same shifter as the 5th gen Legacy, but does anyone know if the stock short throw shifter in a 2015 STI would work in a 5th gen Legacy?

No, the STI shifter does not have cables

I'm decently local to you, and I wouldn't mind letting the short block I pulled when my #4 exhaust valve melted go for like super cheap). Like 200 or trade for parts. I did it due to the ej255 reputation for blowing ring lands.

 

It has like 75k made good compression before melting that valve and it actually still ran on 3 cyls, well as good as it could. Oil came out clean but either way, it could be a better platform for a rebuild

I sent you a PM.

i always see a bunch of imported engines on ebay for $2500ish though i don't know how different the JDM engines are to the north american ones

I saw a picture of the pistons on a JDM 5th Gen GT and they were different than what the US version have. (JDM are definitely a higher CR) They don't have the serpentine belt setup either, but I would assume that is easy to swap (crank pully and accessories).

Keen to see where you go from here, I also have a block sitting with a shot bearing.

 

What can be done if the crank is not chewed up?

I looked up rebuilding a motor, reading the service manual and watching videos on online. Last night, I was already to do attempt that repair. I was thinking new bearings, new pistons rings, new rods and see if I could get away with a honing the block if everything measured properly.

Early this morning, I started thinking about the bearing material in the motor. I would have to replace the oil pump and oil cooler. I also don't trust putting that turbo back in the car without having it rebuilt.

This morning, I found a used 5th Gen GT motor complete with the turbo, I am going to pick it up this weekend.

jeeeez that's some bad luck. crank all chewed up?

I am guessing the crank is chewed up, the bearing is really loose. This has been going on for a while. Also at least one oil change was done, it some how only has minimal gold bearing material in the oil.

So much for the story of ‘It was running fine and all of sudden the engine quit on the highway’.

Hi Everyone,

 

2012 Subaru Legacy 2.5i with 97,500 miles.

 

For only two days, when I started my car up, I heard a low rattling noise for just a minute or two when I hit the accelerator, kind of like in the first 5 seconds of

but maybe a little lower. After this it went completely away

 

After the second day I checked my oil dipstick and it was low so I topped it off with a quart, and now when I check it cold it's on the "high" end of the dipstick.

 

Ever since doing this, I haven't noticed the noise even at a cold start before the car warms up, nor have I noticed any other noises. Any thought on what's up? It seems probably like an engine issue, and I'm guessing a timing tensioner issue, since they are (I think) oil pressurized (the logic being, adding more oil seemed to immediately fix the problem.)

 

I definitely plan to get this checked out soon, but I won't be able to do this for another few days. I guess at 97,500 miles, I should just do an entire timing belt kit replacement!?

 

Maybe I should check the timing belt ASAP before driving it to make sure it's OK and that the belt isn't stretched or frayed (looking through the viewing hole on the left side/taking off the timing cover on the right.)

 

Thanks!

The timing belt tensioner is isolated from the engine oil supply.

Well added another red lady to the driveway. Always wanted a GRP wagon and now I have one. 06 auto black limited. Going to love it for a daily.

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You are a gluten for punishment. Should be a fun driver.

I'm keeping the SS at least until the CT5-V Blackwing is available used for under $60k with a manual and low-ish miles. Which might be never.

 

I looked at the CT5-V BW. The bare minimum model I would want is almost $90k (6MT and upgrade seats), but the way I really want it is $110k with the carbon package and rotors. I am not paying $110k. I wonder how long they will make the BW models. I know the 2nd Gen CTS-V and ATS-V had some big discounts for when they were not selling.