dgoodhue

Well it is repaired now.  I removed the rear spindles and I was able get the rear wheel bearings out with a dozen blows from a sledge hammer on the back side. I bet a torch with a slide hammer would have like worked. The bearing made noise when I turned them by hand.  For good measure I also changed the rear differential fluid.  It was dirty (original) but no metal. It sounds normal when I drive it now.

Every time, I log into this forum, I see Motorbreath's 'the hard way' restoration.  Unfortunately that title is becoming more and more appropriate for my project as well.

I am still working on the rear wheel bearings. I tried using slide hammer, hub shocker, my next attempt is going to be to remove the spindle itself.  I can not get the pinch bolt out (at least the passenger rear), so I need to drop the rear subframe assembly to remove the rear upper control arms. I should be able to get the bearing out once I spindle off the car.  Worst case is that I buy new rear spindle(s). 

My gaskets were OK but I did mine in 2017 when my car was 6 years old. (2011 build date)

I didn't replace anything besides the filter assembly. $5 isn't very expensive and probably worth it. I heard on the GT filter assembly was backorder, but it may have been resolved by now. Make sure you get the correct assembly as I got the wrong one the 1st time. The GT have 3 fittings the other mode have 2. 

I broke off one of the plastic fittings on the assembly to get the filter out so you don't have to bend the body sheet metal to get the top metal ring off.  I notched the ring with an angle grinder so it can come out easily in the future. 

I think the gas mileage change is significant. The O2 sensor is the feedback senor for the closed loop and it has significant affect on the fuel trims.   I am not normally into changing parts randomly but perhaps the O2 sensor is going bad or out calibration. 

The brakes were bled at the dealer last week, so that issue is now resolved. In driving the car to the dealer with speed limits of 45-55 mph, I found out the car has a howl from the drivetrain.  It sort sounded like a truck with loud tires.  I put the car up on jack stands and it appears that it needs rear wheel bearings.

11 hours ago, FLlegacy said:

On my 2010 one sensor made it 8 years, I replaced them all when I got new tires last year. On our 07 tribeca they are still oem sensors going strong so far.

I think Subaru used a different model TPMS for the early vehicles with TPMS like your 2007 Tribeca.

171,400 miles.  Gray. Limited model (leather)   The motor and heads were just rebuilt about 50 miles ago.  I didn't cut any corners, new timing belt, clutch, many new heats shields, hoses, etc as needed.

I will be putting my 2010 GT up for sale later this week.  I brought it to the dealer this morning to get the ABS bled and 3 warranty recalls complete (wiper motor, passenger air bag and e-brake).

They last about 10 years.  If you are replacing your tires, I would replace them.  My 2009 Outback had at least 2 TPMS sensor that stopped working on cold days the winter of 2019. The sensors work again in spring 2020 and then stopped working all together in the fall of 2020.  At least of the 2 sensor were dead on the 2010 GT that I am repairing.  I bought OEM sensors on ebay for $85 for 4.  I am not sure if they were knock offs but they looked oem and came in Subaru bags.  For my 2012 GT, I bought OEM from the online dealer for $50/per sensor.  I got lazy on my 2009 Outback and just bought them from the tire installer, they charged me $80/sensor for aftermarkets.

This is another WTF moment, I can't believe someone was driving around in this car with a knocking engine, misfiring, with screeching metal brakes and brakes that would go the floor under hard stops.

I guess that I didn't update this thread.  I am pretty sure that I have air in the ABS system.  The prior owner painted the calipers red and I wouldn't be surprised if it happened then.  I looked around at scan tools for ABS bleeding  and thought I might be able to find a reasonable one, but seem for the later Subaru's I am going to need an expensive Scan tool for ABS bleeding.  I leaning towards bring it to the dealer to have the ABS bled.

I would replace the heads, cam, caps etc. unfortunately your entire motor is a total loss in my opinion. 

The oil Pan to block has one metal reinforce metal gasket and doesn’t have an o-ring, it suppose to be silicon gasket. (The factory assembly almost looks like an o-ring). I got confuse the 1st one that I disassembled because it looked link an o-ring but I couldn’t find it in the parts catalog. The rest of the picture don’t look like the assembly  caused the failure. What I do see is, significant scoring, that didn’t happen from failed bearing that someone stopped driving shortly after. I would bet the original turbo failed.  Either you didn’t notice it or the prior owner swapped the turbo out and passed the repair bill to you. 

I did it the same way with the jack under the control arm.  I had the same experience of having no problem with getting the ball joints out on my 2012 which I drove only one winter. My 2009 OB that I did was complete different, the pinch bolt broken on one and it took a lot of effect to get the other ball joint out f the spindle.

The OEM front LCA come with new ball joints. 

With a rust free car, this should be an easy job to do.

The car brakes haven't feel right. If I was going 45mph and push the brakes hard, the pedal went almost to the floor.  I flushed the brakes 2 weekends ago and it didn't help, I did it again this week to double check and it still didn't help.  I posted the question up on Facebook and it seems like I have air in the ABS. I need to get a scan tool that will allow me to pulse the ABS so I can do a proper bleed. I will have to do some research on which tool to get (maybe I can get something that is also useful for my wife's Jeep)

This weekend I charged the A/C and programmed the new TPMS sensors to the car, so it wasn't a complete waste.  Once I get the brakes operating properly, the car will be up for sale.

The last one is for the GT.  The middle one looks like the 2.5i one.  I would order it from your local dealer, even though you probably don't get a discount, the saving on shipping is still worth it.

The brake pads were nearly new (The prior owner  had told me had recently installed pads and rotors himself)  He just didn't assemble them properly.  The caliper hardware was forced into the rotor and was catching the slot.  I really can't imagine someone doing a brake job, having the car sound like this and not bother trying to fix it.  This is the driverside, the passenger side wasn't as bad but dtill make noise, one of the the caliper bolt wasn't even tight.  The driver rear brake dust shield was also bent and hitting the rotor. The tension was also broken, (it didn't have any tension), so the belts maybe been also squealing as well. Between the rod knock and the brakes screeching, this car must have been quite the header turner will all the noises it made. 

I am spinning the drivers front wheel by hand. 

The turbo oil reservoir will not drain all the engine oil.  Basically the oil that is in the lines will come out, so you will need a small contain to catch it.  

The passenger side cam gears do not turn by themselves.

I drove it around my neighborhood last night.  The brakes sounded and felt terrible. I figure at least some it was rust but after 2 miles.  It really didn't improve.  I think the front pads were on the wear indicators.  I will pull the brakes apart when I remove the wheels to swap over the TPMS and tires.

While you wrote this, I was outside working on the car. I had the interior out of the car to replace the carpet, so that was my thought.  I disconnected the battery for 15 minutes, unconnected and reconnected the seat sensors (I can see the yellow wiring is related to the Airbag system), I cleaned the the 2 sensor connection under the hood. Connected everything back up, and it light went out. Woohoo!!!  I was getting nervous after reading last night that I would need the Subaru Select monitor or some mechanic (expensive) tool to diagnose it.

So now my list to finish the car.

Drive it to make sure everything work properly.

Mounted the tires and TPMS replaced. 

Charge the AC system. (I have to buy a vacuum pump)

Detail the car