xt2005bonbon

She'll get the DAM to drop, you'll see

Juuuust joking

Btw, since we are on topic, does anyone know of a good DIY thread for this job, listing the parts needed and stuff? I know I can Google this but you know.... I am lazy right now

27 minutes ago, seanyb505 said:

For all those unhappy with brake feel, make sure you're making these judgements after effectively bleeding your brakes. I know I need to do that now, and I hate the feel. I remember what it was like when they were bled really well and I miss that. For my aggressive punk street driving, I actually enjoyed my brake pedal on well bled stock everything except pads and rotors. 

Also, as alluded to above, most of this is at best pedal feel, and at worst cosmetic. If you can lock up your tires, the braking system isn't the weak link, it's your tires. 

Having said that, I think our cars' mods are more driven by owners' personal preferences as opposed to outright speed. Otherwise we'd have a different platform to achieve better performance. 

Feel free to brembo and brace all the things! 

I have bled the system a couple of times and it still feels mushy to me. It does not bite when I begin pressing the pedal. Sure, I can lock up the wheels but I have to press really hard on the pedal. And then I also suffer from that pulsating problem during high speed braking with these stoptech rotor/pad combo. Kinna sick of it :(.

57 minutes ago, Holla said:

I would recommend upgrading the MC/booster to the STi unit.  This alone is one of the best mods you can do on a LGT, even with the stock brakes, and it's so cheap to do.    The MC/Booster makes a bigger difference than the Brembo's IMO.  It really tightens up the brake pedal feel.  You barely get into the brakes and they're right there in the pedal.    

This is what I am looking for: improved brake pedal feel. I have an OBXT though (smaller rotors) with stock calipers. I have stoptech pads and rotors + the Grimmspeed bracket. Still crappy pedal feel IMO. I will probably do this upgrade then.

my 05 has 180k+ miles and I only changed these once. Used OEM stuff though.

Wagon? If yes, probably broken wires inside grommet between trunk and body.

6 hours ago, xt2005bonbon said:

Infosecdad, I wonder if you should ping 'Dispatch'. I think that is his username on here. Iirc, he knows car insurance stuff very well.

Dispatch... the heck . Yeah, Dishwasher.

Infosecdad, I wonder if you should ping 'Dispatch'. I think that is his username on here. Iirc, he knows car insurance stuff very well.

2 minutes ago, Infosecdad said:

- Vehicles should be located within a reasonable distance from the loss location.

What about this one? Not a wagon but an 06 GT. Found it on cars.com.

1 hour ago, Infosecdad said:

So arguing with insurance about the total loss value.

The only comps they can find are base NA engine sedans and they are significantly lower in value than the GT wagons.

I managed to find a few '05 and '07 GT wagons that have twice the list prices as the '06 sedans, but they are rejecting them as they aren't '06.  I can't find a single '06 GT wagon for sale from a dealer in the country.  Any ideas?

 

Listing price has to come from a dealer?

On 12/23/2023 at 9:03 AM, Infosecdad said:

Yesterday was both celebration and mourning...

My oldest daughter was married and it was amazing, it's both hard and wonderful as a Dad.

The mourning was the likely loss of two Subaru wagons. At 3 am last night someone rear-ended the '06 LGT and totaled it, but also pushed it into the back of my '99 Outback and probably totaled it as well.   

It was hit by a newer Silverado and the officer said it was probably totaled as well, he made it to the stop sign before the steering locked up on him and he couldn't get any further.

I'm going to try to keep the blue LGT and part it, but we are now on the hunt for another 4th gen LGT wagon...

Didn't you get the blue wagon from utc_pyro with lots of custom stuff installed in it? That's too bad man. I know it's not the white wagon, but it has to hurt still.. At least, no one in your family got hurt.

Several years ago, I installed 1/0 gauge wire for my audio system, in addition to the 'big 3'. Maybe I should have my fuel pump tap to it, while leaving the rest of the fuel pump wiring intact.

Three of my injectors have 183K miles on them, including the fuel pump. A couple of weeks ago, I suffered from erratic misfires in cylinder 2 after a few gear pulls. Did some troubleshooting with the coil and spark plug first. Turned out they were both fine. So I removed the injector; the orings looked quite old and bad to me. So I installed some fresh orings, sprayed the inside of the injector with some MAF cleaner the best I could. Put it back. Been 200 miles and the car has been running just fine. I hope it'll stay that way.

I never used that B12 chemical before. Maybe I should have. Either way, I will send my injectors for some cleaning and flow testing next month.

Then, that's probably why you have been fine then.

When was the last time your injectors have been 'refreshed'? If never, you may want to send them to DeatschWerks for a cleaning and getting fresh new orings.

Yep. I did that too 8 years ago. Used tons of anti-seize. Have not given me any trouble since. At the same time, I have the whiteline KTA124 kit to adjust rear camber and toe. So we leave these stock bolts alone.

So, she like stomping on the skinny pedal then huh..

If your car was tuned in Summer, then in Winter it is possible it overboosts a little due to denser/colder air mass. You may want to keep an eye on boost target vs actual boost too.

In terms of fuel trims, mine don't swing much if at all between summer/winter.

Do you have TGV deletes? Have you been monitoring roughness per cylinder?

I like that you don't give up on her.

Then, sell the offroad one and get a Jeep later for them trails. Or do like me: keep both OBXTs and get a modified XJ too

Keep it. You'll regret it

So, did you notice exactly in which load and rpm range that knock keep showing up? Also, as you probably know, high load and low rpm is not a good combination. But I do get lazy sometimes to downshift .

What I'd do is basically log and keep note of the load/rpm range it happens and, if it is indeed happening in open loop, check if the actual AFR is meeting the AFR target.

Does it knock a lot in open loop or in closed loop?