Jump to content
LegacyGT.com

xt2005bonbon

Mega Users
  • Posts

    9,118
  • Joined

  • Days Won

    7

Posts posted by xt2005bonbon

  1. On 11/10/2023 at 7:40 PM, seanyb505 said:

    Been enjoying driving it lately in spite of driveshaft annoyances. Oem piece busted a u-joint and I replaced it with a dorman unit from advanced auto. Part number 936-955. A more quality piece from the driveshaft shop and parts thread above would have taken too long to arrive. 

    Well the Dorman unit had an awful vibration above 32mph. 

    I figured I'd order the driveshaft shop unit, and just return the Dorman to advanced auto. 

    Well the driveshaft shop piece arrived today. Same box. Same Dorman part suffix. Same painted over scrapes. Same paint over unit labels. Same weights, everything. Pretty lol considering their website goes through great lengths to say beware of Chinese parts. 

    At this point I've got nothing but two hours to lose to see if this driveshaft is correctly balanced. At least I enjoy wrenching and my brakes could use a bleeding... 

     

    Upon closer inspection, both the Dorman unit and the driveshaft shop unit (brand "DuraShaft" ©) were shipped from the exact same warehouse in Reno.

    I changed all my ujoints with Duralast parts from AutoZone :eek: a few years back (65k miles+). I still do not suffer from vibrations. I'll post the part number when I find it.

     

    Part number is 2-0430dl.

    • Thanks 2
  2. ok. so coil pack plugs are good. Fuel trims are fine. Only one cylinder is misfiring now or all of them still? What does the misfire count per cylinder look like at idle for each cylinder?

    Also, how do your VVT angles look like? Are these at zero while idling and in sync under load? Is one lagging behind or completely off?

    If you have already checked your valve clearance and are sure these are in specs, then your leakdown test should only confirm/deny something wrong with the rings. At least that's my logic. I am assuming you are going to do a warm leakdown test?

     

    Oh, I also remember some guys who had their timing belt installed correctly, but it was running like crap. Culprit was at least one of the intake cam pulleys was not installed right, where it was misaligned  with the camshaft dowel pin. As a result, timing was off and a bunch of other problems.

  3. This is what I posted on your original thread. Maybe that other thread should be deleted.

    -->

    wow. Lots of stuff going on here. 

    Two things to check:

    1. is the timing belt installed properly? Count the number of teeth between pulleys and check what the FSM says. Also, make sure the spacing for the timing belt guides follows FSM spec. Too tight and the belt can jump a couple of teeth = engine running like crap or not running at all.

    2. I would also check valve clearance. It is possible that some valves (especially exhaust valves) are too tight.

    Also, pretty obvious but still: are white coil pack plugs installed to the front (cyl1/2) and black to the back (i.e Cyl 3/4)?

    Do you recall if the misfiring problem happened in all situation, or just at warm idle, cold idle, any rpm range?

  4. I first thought of coil, not necessarily spark plugs. could be that.

    Just checked my logs: last time spark plugs were changed, that was on, wait for it, Sep 2014 :eek: :eek: @ 127000 miles. I am now at 177K. Coils have not been touched since I've owned the car @ 120000 miles, except #3. Then again though, I always monitor the misfire count almost each time I drive and see nothing on all four. Weird.

     

    • Like 1
  5. Several years ago, I suffered from constant misfires on #2 in my 06 due to a tight exhaust valve. At that time, I was already using BtSsm and was monitoring the misfire pattern. I observed how the CEL would get triggered and when it would go away. I saw that if the misfire count was getting greater than ~30 for a few times in a row, the CEL would turn on. Then, if the misfire count would stay somewhat low (e.g. <10) and the engine would get turned on/off like 5-7 times, the CEL would go off. Now, I am sure the ECU may have been tracking how long the engine was running with low misfire count.

    Now, fast forward last month. My wife drove the car. Next day, I took the car and noticed the CEL is on: misfire on #1. Really odd. From that day, I carefully monitored the misfire count on #1: always stayed zero! Nothing. A month has passed, several turn on/turn off cycles, not sure the mileage, but the CEL never went away!! Car kept driving fine, nothing weird. Now, it's been lots of city driving, no long drives. Maybe that's a factor. In any case, got sick of it and finally reset the ECU. Anybody encountered this before?

  6. 4 minutes ago, BoozeRS05 said:

    If I ever get pulsing or issues with my brakes that I can’t explain, I’ll do a handful of aggressive stops and cool offs like I’m bedding them again, and they’re normal.

     

    This might work, but temporarily. I recall a thread where people complained about this problem with this combination of pads and rotors. I think Msprank said that the problem will eventually come back again. Sucks man.

    • Like 2
  7. On 10/3/2023 at 3:21 PM, xt2005bonbon said:

    I am currently using a GS unit, which came with its own oring/gasket. I did recall hearing that sound prior to using the GS unit. So I thought that would have ruled out a leak. But I did notice some slight oil residue between the IC and turbo.. I only hear it if I get past 19 psi or so (>~3.0 g/rev load).

    Would this Mr gasket 738G help and be compatible with a GS unit? I guess I should try it..

    PXL_20231001_024530979.MP.jpg

     

    I did install the Mr gasket 738G 1500 miles ago. The area is now nice and free oil residue. But I still get the whistling turbo noise when I go to 18+ psi. I need to record the sound. Still can't exactly figure out where it is coming from. My fuel trims are spot on. Then again, when this happens, it is in open loop with trim D set to 0...

    It's a long shot, but would the infamous wastegate crack do this?? I don't know how it would. But I know my turbo has such a hairline crack.

  8. 10 minutes ago, SubOperator said:

    I went through hell of trying to get rid of that brake pulsation for years. Even made me think about selling the car. Cost me at least 2 sets of ball joints and tie rods.

    Ended up being an incompatibility between stock OEM pads and Centric rotors. Apparently both have changed over the years and what was a fine combo before stopped being fine.

    Swapped to OEM rotors and new set of OEM pads and now the car is smooth again.

     

    I said 'stoptech rotors' but I think they were labeled as Centric rotors. In any case, they all look fine, pads look fine. It just pulsates when you begin to really brake. My 06 has the same pads but I got the stoptech slotted rotors. This one has not pulsated so far.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Terms of Use