-
Posts
9,118 -
Joined
-
Days Won
7
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Posts posted by xt2005bonbon
-
-
-
What do you use now? Just oem style bearing then? Any specific brand?
-
Please post what you are doing regarding injector scaling. This is something I have yet to 'play with', but found a very good video from HP tuner last night, using our platform (well, an STI) and ECUflash.
-->
-
Nice work on your troubleshooting. So, what are you exactly doing in terms of tuning?
-
On 11/10/2023 at 7:40 PM, seanyb505 said:
Been enjoying driving it lately in spite of driveshaft annoyances. Oem piece busted a u-joint and I replaced it with a dorman unit from advanced auto. Part number 936-955. A more quality piece from the driveshaft shop and parts thread above would have taken too long to arrive.
Well the Dorman unit had an awful vibration above 32mph.
I figured I'd order the driveshaft shop unit, and just return the Dorman to advanced auto.
Well the driveshaft shop piece arrived today. Same box. Same Dorman part suffix. Same painted over scrapes. Same paint over unit labels. Same weights, everything. Pretty lol considering their website goes through great lengths to say beware of Chinese parts.
At this point I've got nothing but two hours to lose to see if this driveshaft is correctly balanced. At least I enjoy wrenching and my brakes could use a bleeding...
Upon closer inspection, both the Dorman unit and the driveshaft shop unit (brand "DuraShaft" ©) were shipped from the exact same warehouse in Reno.
I changed all my ujoints with Duralast parts from AutoZone a few years back (65k miles+). I still do not suffer from vibrations. I'll post the part number when I find it.
Part number is 2-0430dl.
- 2
-
ok. so coil pack plugs are good. Fuel trims are fine. Only one cylinder is misfiring now or all of them still? What does the misfire count per cylinder look like at idle for each cylinder?
Also, how do your VVT angles look like? Are these at zero while idling and in sync under load? Is one lagging behind or completely off?
If you have already checked your valve clearance and are sure these are in specs, then your leakdown test should only confirm/deny something wrong with the rings. At least that's my logic. I am assuming you are going to do a warm leakdown test?
Oh, I also remember some guys who had their timing belt installed correctly, but it was running like crap. Culprit was at least one of the intake cam pulleys was not installed right, where it was misaligned with the camshaft dowel pin. As a result, timing was off and a bunch of other problems.
-
Your grille looks actually pretty nice. Are you planning to add the logo too?
-
SO, what's going on with the car?
I think you may appreciate watching this video posted a while back by HP academy. Very well explained video of the basics about ECUflash and certain specifics about the Subaru platform.
- 1
-
The plugs I listed are the preferred OEM. I just bought two sets for my cars. I know you have a lot on your plate, but since you've been tuning and all, you should look into the BtSsm app to monitor things. Much easier than carrying a laptop around.
- 1
-
OK. What are your long term fuel trims now?
Also, which plugs are you using? I have been using the NGK Laser Iridium Spark Plugs 7913 SILFR6A. Have always been reliable.
-
I have a Cobb intake on my 06. It came this way. I did have to fine tune the MAF scaling though. The car has been running fine for almost 10 years now with very good gas mileage. I should be careful saying that though . catless up, VF40, catted hiflow DP, 3" midpipe with stromung mufflers. She's loud!
- 1
-
This is what I posted on your original thread. Maybe that other thread should be deleted.
-->
wow. Lots of stuff going on here.
Two things to check:
1. is the timing belt installed properly? Count the number of teeth between pulleys and check what the FSM says. Also, make sure the spacing for the timing belt guides follows FSM spec. Too tight and the belt can jump a couple of teeth = engine running like crap or not running at all.
2. I would also check valve clearance. It is possible that some valves (especially exhaust valves) are too tight.
Also, pretty obvious but still: are white coil pack plugs installed to the front (cyl1/2) and black to the back (i.e Cyl 3/4)?
Do you recall if the misfiring problem happened in all situation, or just at warm idle, cold idle, any rpm range?
-
10 hours ago, solidxsnake said:
Took it for its last event for the season yesterday, had fun. Put it away for the winter at the parents place.
Thinking the time has come to move on. Will likely be cleaning it up next spring and listing it for sale... you heard it here first!
Move on to what?
-
wow, that's pretty bad.
-
Amazing how these lithium batteries are that light. I installed a 60 Ah lithium battery where the spare tire is about 2 years ago for our fridge and portable shower. Sooo light it is ridiculous.
- 1
-
I first thought of coil, not necessarily spark plugs. could be that.
Just checked my logs: last time spark plugs were changed, that was on, wait for it, Sep 2014 @ 127000 miles. I am now at 177K. Coils have not been touched since I've owned the car @ 120000 miles, except #3. Then again though, I always monitor the misfire count almost each time I drive and see nothing on all four. Weird.
- 1
-
Several years ago, I suffered from constant misfires on #2 in my 06 due to a tight exhaust valve. At that time, I was already using BtSsm and was monitoring the misfire pattern. I observed how the CEL would get triggered and when it would go away. I saw that if the misfire count was getting greater than ~30 for a few times in a row, the CEL would turn on. Then, if the misfire count would stay somewhat low (e.g. <10) and the engine would get turned on/off like 5-7 times, the CEL would go off. Now, I am sure the ECU may have been tracking how long the engine was running with low misfire count.
Now, fast forward last month. My wife drove the car. Next day, I took the car and noticed the CEL is on: misfire on #1. Really odd. From that day, I carefully monitored the misfire count on #1: always stayed zero! Nothing. A month has passed, several turn on/turn off cycles, not sure the mileage, but the CEL never went away!! Car kept driving fine, nothing weird. Now, it's been lots of city driving, no long drives. Maybe that's a factor. In any case, got sick of it and finally reset the ECU. Anybody encountered this before?
-
4 minutes ago, BoozeRS05 said:
If I ever get pulsing or issues with my brakes that I can’t explain, I’ll do a handful of aggressive stops and cool offs like I’m bedding them again, and they’re normal.
This might work, but temporarily. I recall a thread where people complained about this problem with this combination of pads and rotors. I think Msprank said that the problem will eventually come back again. Sucks man.
- 2
-
On 10/3/2023 at 3:21 PM, xt2005bonbon said:
I am currently using a GS unit, which came with its own oring/gasket. I did recall hearing that sound prior to using the GS unit. So I thought that would have ruled out a leak. But I did notice some slight oil residue between the IC and turbo.. I only hear it if I get past 19 psi or so (>~3.0 g/rev load).
Would this Mr gasket 738G help and be compatible with a GS unit? I guess I should try it..
I did install the Mr gasket 738G 1500 miles ago. The area is now nice and free oil residue. But I still get the whistling turbo noise when I go to 18+ psi. I need to record the sound. Still can't exactly figure out where it is coming from. My fuel trims are spot on. Then again, when this happens, it is in open loop with trim D set to 0...
It's a long shot, but would the infamous wastegate crack do this?? I don't know how it would. But I know my turbo has such a hairline crack.
-
10 minutes ago, SubOperator said:
I went through hell of trying to get rid of that brake pulsation for years. Even made me think about selling the car. Cost me at least 2 sets of ball joints and tie rods.
Ended up being an incompatibility between stock OEM pads and Centric rotors. Apparently both have changed over the years and what was a fine combo before stopped being fine.
Swapped to OEM rotors and new set of OEM pads and now the car is smooth again.
I said 'stoptech rotors' but I think they were labeled as Centric rotors. In any case, they all look fine, pads look fine. It just pulsates when you begin to really brake. My 06 has the same pads but I got the stoptech slotted rotors. This one has not pulsated so far.
-
Good candidate for this thread.
-->
- 1
-
That is the very reason why I'm keeping my Subarus: they don't offer stick shifts with turbo anymore .
- 1
-
Was the outside of the bad coil bulged? How could you tell it was bad?
-
2 hours ago, gimpydingo said:
I've been running centric rotors and hawk hps pads for years. Little noisey at times, but overall great and no issues.
maybe that's what I'll do next.
People with tsk3 kit. Where do you get your TOB for your next clutch job?
in Transmissions
Posted
I may do the same on my next clutch replacement.