xt2005bonbon

All I know is I am NOT raving about my stoptech pads with stoptech rotors. Lots of pulsation problems during hard braking. I hate it. Apparently, there's no fix . I know my caliper pistons and sliding pins are all fine. Pads are evenly worn too.

35 minutes ago, DoctorDaveLGT said:

Powder coater sent me an update on the Bremboi's. Should be picking them up next week. Decided to go with Candy Blue and bright silver logo's. I really like how the logo is actually powder coated on and not just a sticker or other.

Still waiting on a few parts to arrive before install but I'm itching to get this project done - honestly went way overkill but screw it. Going with Endless MX72 Plus pads F&R, Endless SS lines, Paragon 2-piece front rotors, Girodisc 2-piece rear rotors (couldn't find a manufacturer that makes a full 2-piece set) along with the STI BMC & booster. Hopefully should have everything delivered mid-November, so it can be installed right before it gets put away for the winter .

Oh and the tuning is 99% done. Just working on improving cold starts due to an exorcism of things that thou shall not be mentioned. Wagon rips though, still need to do a log to see how quick I can get to full boost.

Nice choice of color.

After a few Google searches, the vibration I experience at low speed and under load is apparently common when you lift a Subie. I basically have to live with it .

Interesting. That's quite disappointing especially for the price these cost. I also have axles from Raxles. The minor but annoying issues I've had is the driver inner boot clamp becoming loose and spreading grease everywhere. I had to add grease and reclamp it. Then a couple of months later, the passenger inner boot failed. I do drive a lot, and it is hot where I leave. BUT, I installed a heatshield between the boot and the cat. I guess, it's still not enough... So, I replaced the boot myself. I should have probably asked them to fix that since they have some kind of warranty on them.

Now, the other problem that frustrates me is vibration under high load at fairly low speed. I have a VF52 JMP and sometime push it quite hard when I launch the car. I can tell the drivetrain vibrates between 25-30 mph and then goes away. I suffered that problem with every axles I've had the past couple of years. Each time, I put a new set of axles, the vibration went away, but then comes back a few thousand miles later. I was disappointed when it showed up with these ones as well. Note, that it is an OBXT, not an LGT. My car has a 1 inch lift or so compared to stock I think. That may be what is causing the issue. My other OBXT is lowered with pink springs. No vibration like that.

Can you elaborate when you say the first ones were no good? And what exactly went wrong with the driver side one from your second set?

Congratulations! Can't see pics though

1 hour ago, SilentJ20 said:

What did I do today? I learned that there's a fuel cut when I hit the rev limiter at 6500...   I didn't mean to, but I was passing someone and they decided to speed up a little, and my ego put the pedal down.  I was worried I'd damaged something when the power dropped off, haha. But after my weekly fluids and Learning View check everything is still happy.

 

I also waved at multiple other hood scooped subies with no reciprocation...

You could always change the rev limit to 7k. My tuner did that. Although I almost never go there since it doesn't pull that much up there, at least in my case.

Code, stock block?

That looks great! I wish these were light like the bbs are.

6 hours ago, shralp said:

Beat on any rim hard enough and it will break. That said, the Terra is built as a rally inspired rim which means it’s pretty beefy (i.e.- no long, delicate thin spokes). Because of that they aren’t particularly light (hence the inexpensive price). Love them on my ‘08 XT and wouldn’t hesitate to buy them again 

Can you post a pic of it?

33 minutes ago, killjoy323232 said:

If I’m reading that right, the ECU is adding fuel in the “A, B, and C” ranges. Granted, I’m still a nub when it comes to tuning/troubleshooting, so someone more experienced should chime in (battling with my own car), but if you went to a smaller displacement engine while leaving the tune alone, shouldn’t those be trending negative?

Yes. Positive trims means that the ECU is adding fuel in these particular trims. In his case, my guess is the use of the aftermarket (and subsequently modified) cold air intake. The MAF needs to be rescaled for it, again assuming everything else is fine (MAF, O2 sensors, and no vacuum leaks).

Yeah, so again, assuming o2 and MAF sensors are good, and no vacuum leak, I would do the following:

-rescale the MAF table so as to bring back the long term fuel trims close to 0%.

-you could remove like 6 degrees of timing throughout the whole base timing table

-you could also zero out the wastegate duty cycle tables so that it would just run 'spring pressure' (~5-6 psi I think). IOW, 'safe' boost levels while you address the timing and the fueling.

I would go from there.

Again, that's what I would do. But I am not a professional tuner.

Good on you for checking for vacuum leaks again. Might want to try what subisubisu is suggesting. And post an LV when you can .

Pull another LV and post. Wondering if your long term fuel trims are still off.

AFR is 18 at idle? Mine is at 14.7 (when warmed up).

The tick is quite loud. Does it go away at different rpm or is it always there regardless of rpm?

So, what is the latest update regarding tuning?

What did you replace these with? free bump.

9 hours ago, Infosecdad said:

Put the white wagon up on quickjacks; changed the oil, changed the spark plugs, and she was good to go.

About 90 min total (over last night and this morning). 

Plugs were about 3 years old, still looked decent but aged.

 

How many miles on the plugs? I should probably change mine. 3 years and 55K already.

Got mine from ebay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/256148227614?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=J8Hjbd0aR8i&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=4hu0Z6ZnQZO&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Daaang, she is clean! Essentially looks brand new! You're really scored there. I hope she will be stored in a garage.

I changed my reverse switch about a month ago. Same issue as OP. Problem solved after I installed a new switch. I have a wagon. I also thought that was the wiring first, but it was not. It really was the switch.

^ That's definitely up there!

14 hours ago, m sprank said:

1 step at a time. 

+1000. Yes, please, check one thing at a time or else you'll get lost and frustrated.

13 hours ago, Infosecdad said:

100% this.

My oldest is getting married in a couple months... 

I'm not ready for my little girl to be married.

You may have grandkids soon though

What comes to mind right now is to double check all four long term fuel trims and also the VVT (also called OCV) angles. You have one per bank. When the engine is under load, these two numbers should be in sync. The max values depend on the tune; as an example, mine peaks at 11 deg. When the engine is not under load, these values should be zero. I would also check that. To be fair though, if something was really wrong with the OCVs, it would throw a code like P0011 or P0012. Still, does not hurt to check..