xt2005bonbon

23 minutes ago, Code said:

Sticky dash.  At one time it was covered under a recall. Once it starts there is no stopping it. 

It's crazy that some folks have it worse than others. I have a neighbor who has an 05 NA outback. Always been in the sun, no sun visor. Dash is just fine . While both of mine have been garaged for 10 years, and now they're cracked and sticky. pfff.

To give more context though, I believe my neighbor's outback has lived its whole life in the dry desert, while both of mine have been on the East coast for a while, some other cold regions of the world and now in a dry environment. Mine became sticky before moving in a dry environment.

That's still a lot of money...

I think there are some Crosstrek with manual trans no?

Edit: looks like 2023 was the last year to get an MT for the crosstrek

On 12/13/2023 at 1:35 PM, xt2005bonbon said:

Three of my injectors have 183K miles on them, including the fuel pump. A couple of weeks ago, I suffered from erratic misfires in cylinder 2 after a few gear pulls. Did some troubleshooting with the coil and spark plug first. Turned out they were both fine. So I removed the injector; the orings looked quite old and bad to me. So I installed some fresh orings, sprayed the inside of the injector with some MAF cleaner the best I could. Put it back. Been 200 miles and the car has been running just fine. I hope it'll stay that way.

I never used that B12 chemical before. Maybe I should have. Either way, I will send my injectors for some cleaning and flow testing next month.

I should report that it's been more than 1k miles of driving now and the engine is running just fine.

Just get her a used crosstrek. no?

14 hours ago, Subienewbe said:

I'm not sure, but a buddy that works at a Dodge store said they made a setup with a bilge pump and they circulate concrete cleaner in a bucket or tote. He said you need to neutralize it so it must be caustic.

mmh. I need to look into it. If there is a way to break down this green crap without removing the heater core, I am all for it!

Do like me: I have a lowered OBXT on STI pinks and Bilsteins for them corners , and then for longer trips I have the slightly raised 05 OBXT on a BTS kit with a JMP VF52, GS intercooler, thicker RSB, whiteline camber/toe rear kit, bla bla bla... Not too bad.

I have a brand new heater core ready to get installed. But I've been lazy to pull the dash..

On 1/22/2024 at 1:46 PM, DoctorDaveLGT said:

Got the wing on and I love it! Honestly was a little skeptical on the paint design when I just saw the painted wing by itself but once it was on all that went away. Hard to get decent shots of it because the car is tucked in a corner. And before anyone mentions anything - the paint matches, the car is just really dusty.

Freak. Your wagon looks really really good. Man, I love these rims on it.

14 hours ago, Enlight said:

 We'll see whether misfire codes come back.

 

Does it misfire consistently in a same cylinder?

mmmh. I should probably do that. We drive a lot on dusty dirt roads and stuff and dust is found everywhere inside the small side compartments of the trunk. Maybe the flap vents are not doing their job very well anymore.

1 hour ago, Tehnation said:

You can check fuel trims with AP like the learning view app? If so, please share! I think someone told me this before but I'm getting old... 

I don't own an AP, but you may be able to check this parameter list and see what variables your AP can view.

5 minutes ago, Tehnation said:

@xt2005bonbonYou might find some hp if you put in a new one I hear.

I don't know. I am always starring at BtSsm when I drive and my long term fuel trims are very close to zero. They've remained quite consistent since I fixed the wires.

1 minute ago, Tehnation said:

could it be my maf sensor?

 

Not sure. I never had to change my MAF. Still original for both cars (180k+)

Do you have BtSsm or an AP? Are you able to view live what's going on in terms of your fuel trim corrections?

I did not catch that you did that. I did this also last year or the year before. So far so good. Although I recall that for one of them, my crimping job was not done well. So it still acted up until I fixed the latter.

I recall the OEM wires are sligthly thicker than what iwire provides on their pigtails. I did use their pigtail as I was having trouble at my MAF connection. The problem was not necessarily on the longer portion of the wires. Rather, it was at the MAF plug where the wires meet the plug. I think the ground was getting bad when the car was warm, making the car runs super rich. I could see it on BtSsm live. I made the change on two cars. Problem solved.

1 hour ago, hadvw said:

Still subscribed to this topic . I do miss the wagon some days - it had great visibility and rear legroom and storage for its overall size. OTOH, in terms of power and features, the Stinger blows it away - and for roughly the same price 15 years later (if you adjust for inflation)..

Hard to believe I joined 19+ years ago.. This is probably one of the longest running web-boards on the 'net.. I mean, it was around before Facebook was public..

 

You had an automatic wagon though, right? Can't remember, was yours ever modified or did you keep it stock?

As far as I know, we don't have an oem oil pressure sensor. I mean, it is a 'stupid' sensor which only turns on when you are below, like what? 2 psi?

ah yeah. I thought he was on a vf40 or vf52.

K. I am lazy scrolling through the whole thread . So what turbo and mods did you end up doing?

wow. That's a looong time.

You can also press the clutch and gas pedals (wot) while cranking. It will just crank and not start. I usually do that when the car sits for an extended period of time to build up oil pressure.

On another note, I want to buy a 12 pack of oil filters. Man, 10 years ago I was used to pay 65$ for these. Cheapest I can find is 120$ now!

Edit: to be fair, it appears that Subaru now sells the 'good stuff' (black filter vs blue).

Well, I never did that step before. Just thought the replacement of fluid and bleeding were essentially done simultaneously.

It's weird. I do use the FSM and do not remember reading that note. Learn something new everyday I guess. 

Edit: Brake fluid replacement can be found under section BR-33, while air bleeding can be found in section BR-34 of the FSM.

7 hours ago, alex0856 said:

After I had everything installed I used a vacuum bleeder to suck about 2 quarts of Motul through the lines using Subaru's bleeding procedure - start with front left, move to front right, rear left, rear right.

.

Wait, I believe the FSM says to start from the farthest wheel to the MC and end with the closest.

13 minutes ago, SoobyDoobyDoo said:

@DoctorDaveLGT that’s smart I get it. I don’t know if mines been replaced or not…still seems ok? That’s something else on my list to buy just in case. That’s great that stuff is getting painted! Maybe we can hook up some time after tax season before May. 

my pedal is kinda mushy too…but it’s also completely stock, so there’s that. Only good thing about it is I’ve got centric blanks. 

@xt2005bonbon are you referring to a regular brake job? 

I am referring to the STI MC/booster swap.