xt2005bonbon

should be the exact same.

I think the issue are the fasteners. They rust. And I think there are a lot of them. So it can be easy to forget to loosen one of them, and try to yank the thing.

There are a few on ebay. I am actually looking for one too. Not cheap though..

You must be excited!

Infosecdad is selling a used Grimmspeed for 600$ I think. You should get it.

yes to more tools in the car! I am a little overkill on that one.

Is this your garage?

Yeah, I admit I am also a little hesitant too. But I have the new core here and can tell these hoses can easily spin around. So these are not crimped that hard. The guy said that there are some orings too. So I think it should be OK. Although in my case, the dash will come out anyway since I am going to replace it. Cracked all over the place and shines if too hot.

Same problem for me: barely any heat on passenger side and backflushing did not fix it. I think that's the video I saw a while back.

3 minutes ago, KZJonny said:

If your heater core ever goes bad/gets gunked, this is a pretty good deal. By the time you've dug THAT out of the car, you might just as well get a new everything.

Replacing just the actuators requires tiny hands and all, but is possible without taking out the entire dash. Heater core, not so much luck...

I have a brand new heater core that I have yet to install. I think I read somewhere you can technically slide it out the 'box'. May have seen this on a Tribeca forum.

Ah yeah. This one looks a little more classy to me. All subjective though. But again, if I put something like this on my car, better be a fast car

yeah, 90 bucks is steep. That's why I was not getting them.

Aftermarket electric opener/closer sounds like a good alternative too. I should look into it.

This shudder you are describing is what happened to my first aftermarket set. It was noisy. I think these are all made from the same 'made in china' company.. Just different sticker on it.

I still don't think it is acceptable that you have to lift the hatch a couple of inches until the struts are able to lift the trunk. When you are carrying a bunch of stuff, it can be hard to do that vs. just having to press and barely lift the trunk handle. Please report how long these will last. Mine did not last very long and performed worse when the temps were cold.

Well, you can never have too many brake lights for these people who don't pay attention to the road and rear end you .

Holy crap! That quickly turned into a nightmare! I've changed these twice with some aftermarket units I bought online. Still not happy with these. You always have 'to assist the beginning' of the lifting, and the trunk does not always fully open. You have to push the trunk at the end of the stroke. What brand are yours? The aftermarket ones on my old Jeep Cherokee are super strong and easily open the trunk. That trunk is not light either..

If you just reset the ecu, then it is normal for the idle to be a bit rough when you apply some throttle and then let it go back to idle. The ecu is learning. But it does not take very long to learn especially if it idled for a while. At least, my cars behave like that.

How much did you pay for the tailgate piece? Why did you get a seatbelt?

Also. Some food for thought..

I have two OBXTs. Both suffered over time with some grounding issue between the MAF sensor and MAF wiring harness. AFR corrections were going wonky when warmed up (overly negative corrections). Found the problem by having the engine idling, while starring at the BtSsm app on my phone (or accessport), twisted the MAF wiring harness at the MAF. Corrections were going all over the place while I was doing that. You could also hear changes in idling. Had to replace the MAF connector with a pigtail from iWire. Did that on both cars. Not saying it is your problem, but it is good to know.

yeah. lots of engine braking.

Very happy for you. It was in fact a simple fix after all!

The number of teeth between pulleys is what really matters to me, as per FSM.

Stupid check: did you make sure the white coil plugs are in the front and black in the back?

Also, it could be possible that one of the intake camshaft pulleys is not aligned exactly right with the camshaft dowel pin. I hope that's not the case. It is somewhat easy, upon install, to misalign that pulley with the camshaft. Some guys had that problem. It's rare but it can happen.

You sure it's gone?

Our wagon gen does look small, but we still have more cargo volume in the trunk than the latest crosstrek.

Man, our wagon looks so small now when parked next to the newest STIs/WRX, crosstrek or outbacks.

I want the Grimmspeed alternator cover. zip is 84780.

Also, would the radiator shroud fit with a Koyo (Hyper V Performance Aluminum) radiator?

Edit: according to this page, it looks like it does... So I think I'll grab that too.