xt2005bonbon

Probably 0.8 ohm. Assumption though. if that's the case, that's fine. Check the ground wire now. How about the ACC wire that turns on the amp?

Check the wire resistance with an Ohm meter?

Looks like it has been replaced by 15208AA20A ? Taller filter.

This filter is actually sold by flatironstuning as well. https://www.flatironstuning.com/15208aa100 I paid 75$ with tax for 10 filters on ebay.

Anyone using the 15208AA100 oem oil filters? I have been using the OEM 15208aa12a filters for the past 15 years. These were like 4-6 bucks a piece. I complained not too long ago about the price of the new oil filters. But these are actually made in Japan. These appear to be slightly larger and better quality.

Look what I found! https://www.autoseatskins.com/subaru-legacy-katzkin-leather-seats-p/csu02.htm

Thanks for the link. Obviously the ivory ones are $$$$ . I may go ahead and buy the passenger side leather cover sold here in the US and see how it goes. But man, it is really tempting to try to fit the newer outback cover I posted yesterday.

It's true. You could always repair them.

The owner of this site is a bass head. I used to watch him on Youtube a looong time ago. I would trust getting his own amp brand. Although, I have not bought any of these yet, as I have yet to reinstall my D3000.1 MMATS amp. Still rocking a 4.1 channel Phoenix Gold amp. Not super strong (800W for the sub channel) but not too bad.

What amps did you blow? I've seen some decent amps on the down4sound website.

^ That sounds scary and frustrating at the same time.

Anybody worked on refreshing their seat covers? My driver side bottom leather seat cover is trash now. I just need a new cover but can't find one. Any solution beside finding a used seat? The 2015+ outback are lucky. They can buy these in black or tan. I am almost tempted to buy one and see if I can make it fit.. Edit: after doing some more searching, it looks like we can still buy the bottom leather seat cover for the passenger side only, not the driver side. Thing is I don't see the difference between the two .

Now take good care of her and keep an eye on AFR learned values, etc.. on your AP.

Change it yourself and save some cash. It's not hard at all (assuming no bolt seizing problem).

I HATE when a bolt is seized or break. Last week, it literally took me 45 minutes to replace a front wheel bearing. 5 years ago, it took me a whole day. Why? Because a freakin caliper bracket bolt was seized and broke. So much fuuun That's why I put TONS of anti-seize everywhere. And that's why it took 45 minutes last week to change the wheel bearing!

Was your plan to change the balljoint too or just the cv axle? Cause if it was the latter only, then you don't need to touch it.

This is what I have on my car. Why don't you get that one? Only thing I do not like about this design is that you lose departure angle. The European design is better IMO. Edit: I just checked my emails to see when and how much I paid for this: it was back in 2018. I paid, wait for it, 125$ shipped!! Now, it is 220$ on the link I provided to you. What the heck..

Can't you do that 'seat belt chime mod' people did years ago?

Hang on a second here: are you saying that the NA dash is different than a GT/XT dash?

1 1/4 or 2 inch? Where are you btw? Edit: ah, East coast looks like..

Getting ridiculous

That's a lot of money for NA. Low miles though..

The thing is, I have a feeling that the 'new' dash are just the same as the old ones that are failing. IOW, the problem may show up later again.

I mean, the dash itself is fine (the hard plastic shell). It's that soft thin layer on top of it that is falling apart. If there was a way to easily remove that crap, and 'respray' a new layer, then we'd be good.

Yeah. I have a brand new dash in my attic since 2018 . I planned to install it this winter, but I need to find the motivation for it..